getuted

I really wouldn't worry about a little water vapour. Water methanol injection kits pump upto 400 odd mls per minute of water/methanol into an engine at full noise. This technology has been around since the 1940s on supercharged aircraft, I've even read it helps stop carbon build up in the head and cylinders. Aqua mist do several kits for cars and I'm thinking of getting one for my car. Anyway......

I wouldn't go driving in the rain if your worried about water vapour going through your engine, nor would I ever consider putting water/ methanol injection on a boosted engine. If its taking 3 weeks to get 1 cup of water and no oil in the catch can I would piss the can off and let the engine suck the water vapours in. Water vapour at the correct ratio is the best detonation repellant you can get, excessive oil vapour on the other hand can induce detonation.

If it was completely shut the engine wouldn't get any air at idle and would stall because these cars have no idle air valve. The idle speed is controlled by the ecu. The little screw is designed as a stop and for fine adjustment of the TPS signal. I would measure your current throttle plate gap with feeler gauges and measure your TPS signal and check it again / adjust when you change throttle bodies.

I spent about 20 hours taking measurements and doing drawings on my PC. I didn't have access to flow modelling software however once the manifold is finished the head and the manifold are off for cylinder head porting. I want to get get the head and the manifold runners flow matched so each cyl is getting equal air distribution. This is the one reason I made the runner wall thickness .170" so they have some wall thickness to play with. I also dropped the port height .060" so more of the valve top faces are exposed by taking more out of the bottom of each cylinder head port.

I've been busy in the shed last couple of months machining parts for a 6061 billet inlet manifold for an engine I'm building for my BA 2 turbo ute, I still have a lot of machining to go but its getting close to welding the runners to the plenum plate and cylinder head plate then I can start on the plenum. The end result should be something similar to a hypertune manifold except it will be welded together.

I had this happen to my ba mk2 turned out to be the diaphragm in the waste gate actuator was stuffed. I cut it open and the diaphragm had a hole in it and looked like it had perished due to oil contamination, plus heat from the manifold. You can test for this with an air compressor, just disconnect the signal line from the boost controller and plug it into 15 psi regulated shop air. You shouldn't hear any air leaks and the actuator should move.

This probably wont help but ill say it anyway, Putting shop air on an waste gate actuator can give misleading indications as to when the waste gate actually opens when driving. I found this out when swapping my actuator for a new stock BA one. I checked it with a regulated shop air and it didn't start to move until 10 psi. Stock boost is around 5 psi what going to happen if I install this one. I installed it anyway and bypassed the boost controller ( compressor straight to actuator) to be safe and went for a drive. I only managed to get 4 psi of boost, creeping to 5psi at high rpm. Puzzled I did some thinking and worked out I forgot to take into account that the exhaust gas is pushing on the flapper valve as well as the actuator, hence the reason I was only getting 4-5 psi and not the 10psi or more I was expecting.

Not sure if this will help but I had the same noise coming from the same area in my ba mk 2 and it turned out to be the bolt those goes throught the front leaf spring eye was loose. Locktite 271 and a new lock nut fixed the issue. Also try checking your spare wheel is pulled up hard on the tray stops.

I've use the castrol safxa in mine every 8000k since it was new and it's now got a 130000k on it with 306 rwkw for most of them and the LSD is still really tight, I think 50k is way too long to let it go especially when it's an easy job and cost $60 for 2 bottles at stupid cheap auto.

I found getting the bolt under the ecu out a pain in the arse, I tried deep sockets and uni joints but just couldn't get the angle so I used a snap-on easy out to remove the tamper proof bolts holding the ecu in and moved it out the way. It made the whole job a lot easier. I just replaced the tamper proof bolts with standard M6 flange bolts, should be easier next time. I don't know why they bother putting tamper proof bolts there!

Thanks for the email arronm I've retorqued the bolts but haven't put the car back together yet so I'll see if it still making the noise tomorrow.