kinggee

I found this on another forum early last year, I don't know who posted it: "So I decided to email Sanyo Australia, and got a guy who did a bit of research and passed on my queries to Sanyo (Japan) where the Ford amps were made. They got back to me with the specs for the Model# 14788100 premium sound amp: Standard Output：100W(THD1%@30Hz) Maximum Output：150W(THD10%@30Hz) Number of channel: 1ch Operation Voltage Range：8-16V Power Source: 14.3V DC Negative Ground Speaker Load: 4ohm Operation Temp. Range：-10-55℃ S/N Ratio: 70dB Size[mm]：150(D) x 267(W) x 55(H) Weight：1.6kg " I'm no expert at all, but if the high level inputs on your amp can handle 150W max input (assuming the above info is correct) than you should be able to get away with getting the sub signal after the factory amp. I did this and wired a plug that matches the one on the subwoofer to plug into so I didn't have to cut the factory loom. I'm using an LC6 as a line converter to use low level inputs.

I have an LC6, not the LC6i. Do you have +12v going to the remote on? Are the balance and fader settings on the factory system set to the rear speakers only? May have been left that way after setting it up. Is the level control for the front channels turned up enough? Is the wiring connected between the amp and front speakers? (do the speakers work from the factory headunit when bypassing the LC6i and Amp using the wiring that runs from the amp to the speakers). I've downloaded the manual and I don't think the "connected to main channel" light should light up if you are using the "Main Input" and "Channel 2", as this needs to be turned on by jumpers under the cover, which is turned off from factory. This is a guess as I haven't played with an LC6i yet. I would wire it up with the factory fronts going to "Main Input Speaker Level L+R" and the rears to "Channel 2 Speaker Level L+R". Leave the RCA's unplugged and run the factory system to about 20-24 and turn up the output level dial until the "Maximized light starts to flicker." Sorry if I'm telling you things you've done but it's hard to explain in writing. My money would be on something simple like the balance / fader being turned down at the front only because I've done it myself.

Anyway... about the question of vga to cga conversion. http://www.highway.net.au/parts/converters/2019_1.html I 'think' Mr Bean tried on of these with his original mac mini install logged on mp3car. Pics on post 42. http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/worklogs/9...ject-log-3.html The instruction manual is available on the site above. I am looking at doing the carputer thing myself using the wifes old laptop and this converter. If I don't use the laptop I will go for the Arcade VGA card for use in desktops.

Photographer must have been sitting to my left on the grandstand. GTT6fd13eYY

I assume it may be Blueboost's car, only because it is blue, boosted and in Mackay, but I've never met him myself. It had a sticker on the window stating it to be the 'quickest (unopened) XR6T 11.78 seconds @ 114.2mph. Pics taken 7/2005.

Saw this at the Nostalgia drags in Mackay in 2005. I believe it has an oil cooler on one side and a transmission oil cooler on the other, can't remember exactly, but there is at least one cooler visible behind the passenger mesh. Plus a couple of pics of it from a distance on the strip.

Check to see if the light/cruise control switch on the brake pedal has come unclipped. Stick your head down with the pedals and look for the switch that is activated when you press the brake pedal (if your car is a manual there will be one on the clutch pedal as well). The switch turns (like a keyhole lock) to lock into the bracket. This happened to me earlier this year and this is what was wrong with it.

I agree that the dispaly dimming with the lights on during the day is an oversight. My car is white but I still would prefer to have the low beams on when driving on the highway. As the high series ICC / auto lights on cars already have the sun sensor installed, I thought that it would have been simple for the car to realise that if the lights were turned on manually but it was still sunny / not dark enough for the auto lights, the software would leave the screen bright. It would then dim as the ambient light fades. It's a pain to try and see the ICC with sunnies on.

The Aux in is available for fitment on all sound system levels. One the cable is plugged in, you press AM twice to select Aux.

I've been away for 2 days - moving to Townsville soon. As for the mobile phone power, all falcons will have it, the plug is actually blue - mine has the Ford amplified Aux input plugged between the HK and the blue plug. It is bundled with the Aux in plug which is a white square 4 pin plug. As for the antenna, If you use the ford Aux input you don't need to access the antenna for the FM modulator. If you use the modulator, I 'think' you should be able to get to the antenna with the tissue box removed. I believe it plugs into the bottom of the ICC. I didn't need to remove the ICC at all, only the 'wings' next to the ICC and the shift surround.

Took some pics today and put them in a PDF (1.1MB). HK_Install.pdf

Just found this now. http://playlistmag.com/news/2007/01/08/driveplay/index.php Won't ship for a while and is much more expensive. For that price I'd consider the fancy Alpine unit myself.

Installed it myself. Link to the owners manual below (1.2MB). just downloaded it now and it will explain it better than I could. I'll get some pics of what I've done tomorrow or Wednesday and try to post them. http://www.harmankardon.com/drive-1/docs/owners_manual.pdf I drilled small holes in the console to fit the controller rather than have the wire exposed. I figured I could buy a replacement easily enough. The screen is mounted to the MDF faceplate rather than using their hardware (had to dissasemble the screen mount a little bit) and mounted the electronics box under the dash infront of the drivers left knee with velcro. The AUX input needed to be 'modified' as it has a 3.5mm female connection but the HK needs a 3.5mm male plug. This was simply cut and replaced. Power for the unit was taken from the mobile phone power for convenience. I bought a Narva plug from a local auto parts spare store to fit into the factory plug. The wire and plug to the HK has its own fuse which was used. Other wiring was simply fed through with snakes and held with cableties and stick on clips. Clips are used to keep the controller knob run around the perimeter of the gear lever compartment to keep it clear of the mechanism. I have alternator whine through my system (using the amplified AUX from Ford), but I had the whine before this installation and it is not any worse. And it lights up blue. I'll see if I can make a PDF of the installation of the unit, will be easier for me than typing online.

http://www.conexus.com.au/macwin/detail.tpl?item=HMH491 Conexus is the distributor. I emailed them and they told me of a local store who could sell me one. Conexus even emailed the retailer to let them know I was coming. streetwise.com.au has it for sale. Check under iPod accesories -> in-car accessories. I assume most Apple resellers should be able to get them.

I've been off the computer so I missed this thread. I have mine in the glove-box controlled by a Harmon/Kardon drive+play. The controller knob mimics the iPod controls. There are four buttons and the outer-ring scrolls the menus. The signal is amplified through the main unit under the dash and it has outputs for either the Aux input or through the built-in FM modulator. It cost a bit ($300) but I find it very easy to use.