MaTTe

Thanks for the constructive input.. but that is a clip from the telecast, that as I said, locks up when he rolls over. The telecast I have recorded does not lockup, therefor it is different on the ACTUAL telecast.. maybe you should put the can down, or focus better when reading..

it doesn't show the clip as well there as the actual telecast, as it locks up where the crash starts, but on the tv it shows it as rolling atleast 4 times, I thought 5 when I first saw it.. either way, it was pretty skilled to mess up so badly on a warmup lap.. maybe the footballers should stick to what they're good at.. grabbing other boys in short shorts..

I thought he rolled it more than twice.. I thought it was more like 4 times, I may have been wrong.. might have to rewatch it. Cahnnel 10s play of the day hid it from view

it was a pretty skilled rollover, he managed to roll 4-5 times at low speed, on the warmup lap. Sports tonight messed the segment up by putting their graphic over the car hiding what hapened, but it was pretty funny watching it during the v8 telecast..

Ok.. Theres a guy standing on the edge of the roof on a 40 story building.. And Theres a guy receiving a blowjob from a 90 year old woman.. They're both thinking the EXACT same thing.. What is it? Don't look down

a BF XR6 na would be a bargain for 5K, spend another 5k and get a low Km XR6T conversion, and you'd have a good turbo for XR6 money.. But if you bought that car for 6K and sold it for more on ebay, my hat goes off to your idea..

they've redesigned the handle, so that it grips differently. mine broke the handle and the fuse box. get one of the new release handles, and see if you can just take the ball knuckle out of the old handle and put it into the new handle and you wont have to replace the cable. If not, you're probaby better off pulling the front quarter panel off as its not hard, and it'll make the job easier

My car was doing the same thing, but it was the TPS, once it was changed the problem was fixed.. It's probably worth getting ford to try another TPS as it may have just been a bad batch, and you were lucky enough to get 2 duds.. If it's not that, it'd have to be something to do with wiring if it's picking up a fault and the sensors are all functioning properly.. Good luck with the diagnosis

Hey mate, sounds like someone got a good deal, I know plenty of people willing to pay more like 5K for a T56, and it's easily worth it.. It cost me about 3K for the conversion from FTG, it's done about 30,000km so its barely broken in.. It cost a bit for Ford to find the fuel maps to suit the ECU also.. $500 odd.. I'd rather keep it than sell it for less than $3500.. But it does have EVERYTHING with it, not just most things.. Its a pitty you weren't selling your T56 a year ago, would've been nice in my car..

Hey mate, to swap the pedal box you want to undo the nut on the telescopic steering shaft, then you can slide the shaft up into the dash without disconnecting the whole column. Undo the fuse panel, it only has a few bolts, and this will make getting to the plugs on the back easier. There will be 4 nuts holding the brake booster in, from memory you'll need a deep socket 10mm maybe its 12mm... disconnect the brake booster from the pedal, there's a circlip and some plastic washers, slide the pedal off the shaft, then put the circlip and washers back on so you don't lose them. Then go into the engine bay and pull the booster and master cylinder forward. Do this carefully as you don't want to kink the brake lines, but the further forward you can get the booster, the easier it'll be to get the pedal box out. Then there are 2 nuts holding the top of the pedal box in, I think these were 12mm.. im not sure though.. its been a while.. That should be it. double check that the pedal box is all loose and doesn't look like anything is attached.. If anythng is attached, detach it.. Then its just a matter of pulling it down and out, space is still tight, but it'll come, will need some rotation worked into the process.. When it's out, swap your cruise control switches onto the new pedal box, push out the firewall seal so you can put the clutch fluid hoses through, Then do everything in reverse. Its easier than it sounds.. put the drivers seat right back to give yourself some space also.. If I've forgotten anything feel free to update the list.. Cheers fellas, I hope this helps MaTTe

NGKs make a NA plug too, its 1.2mm from memory.. Not sure what the part numbers are though.. Make sure you get some dielectric grease to put on the top of the plugs, helps to keep conductivity higher.

Hey fellas, in terms of anti friction/wear I use Microglide. For older engines that want a bit of love, I use PROMA Any decent oil is good enough when using a good addative. I'm not a big fan of Nulon products, they're good for a cheap brand, but are just that.. I've seen petrol cars running like diesels because of adding nulon. It seems like alot of people on this forum do like Nulon, and each are entitled to their own opinions and options.. But I prefer quality.. $77/litre for Microglide and I use 50-75ml/litre of oil. Oil wont break down at pressures of 120ft/lbs+ Good for engines, power steering, manuals (special product for autos), non LSDs. PROMA is equally good, but is better for older engines, gearboxes, non LSDs I use Redline Water Wetter religiously, why risk your car with glycol? Redline oils are good, but we always use Microglide with them. We had an oil pick up break off early in a race, and the car ran flawlessly, so we pushed on thinking it was an electrical fault. After the race we realised the engine was bone dry so we swapped engines before the next race. When we got home we pulled the engine down and found the broken pickup in the sump. We expected the cylinders, big end bearings etc to be scored and burnt white. But upon inspection found everything to be as good condition as it was when we built the engine at the start of the season. Despite the fact we had new bearings to put in, there was no point, the originals were in such good condition we put them back in, welded up the oil pick up, and finished and won the race season. Without Microglide that engine may never have revved again. That is in an engine that never drops below 4000rpm, I highly doubt that engine would have been worth taking home if it had nulon in it.. But that's my 2 cents worth.. Cheers, MaTTe

Hey fellas, the conversion is pretty easy to do yourself provided you're pretty handy with tools. I converted my NA about a year ago, but had a learner Tbone my car a couple of months back, so I have a 5speed conversion sitting in the shed.. It's sold pending payment, but I haven't heard back from the buyer in weeks.. I'm chasing $3500 atleast but it is absolutely complete. First in with cash wins.. The hardest part when I converted it was getting ford to find a fuel map to suit my car. My car was a 2 letter ecu, but the conversion came with a 3 letter ecu. Fortunately for the next buyer, the ecu still has the code for the 3 letter map on the side, and the 2 letter map encoded. (Cost me $350 for them to search thru the thousands of fuel maps BA-BFII) It's far more fun doing the install yourself, but if you're not confident, I rcommend spending the extra. Just make sure you have the pressure plate pre compressed otherwise you'll have no clutch, and get a clutch alignment tool, near enough isn't good enough.. I hope this helps, MaTTe

It really depends on what model car you have, as it's alot harder to put a 6spd auto into a BA than into a BFII.. Putting a 4 spd into any model is relatively easy, you'll need the engine wiring harness, ecu, shifter mech, gearbox and bellhousing, crossmember, yoke, tailhaft, and pedal box.. The dash can stay in the car, but the centre console needs to come out to get the tiptronic shifter in. The NA gearbox is the same, but the electronics are different. Im not sure if this is controlled by the ecu or within the gearbox, but either way it can be made to suit. I converted my NA to manual and loved it! But if you are sick of the manual the conversion is possible. Cheers, MaTTe

Hey fellas, I know this is on another forum, but it should open your eyes a little.. Oil test results I haven't personally used Royal Purple, but according to this test it is OBVIOUSLY the best. I do however use an addative called Microglide that yeilds the same result as Royal Purple did, on a similar pressure wheel. Our pressure wheel isn't submerged in oil like that one, we just put an amount onto the bearing then apply the pressure by hand and watch the pressure gauge, rather than adding free weights. All oils will stop the bearing and score the lifter regerdless of price and quality. (I haven't yet tested Royal Purple, but now I'm keen to) Microglide and PROMA will both coat the lifter and bearing causing no wear and no friction. The bearing will be unstoppable at over 120ft/lbs, whereas any oil will stop the bearing at 30ft/lbs.. Running a 10w60 rather than a 10w30 will provide a thicker oil that'll take a little longer to breakdown, but this will be at the sacrifice of power and economy Microglide with a 10w30 will protect an engine better than a 10w60 could ever hope to.. The only downside to Microglide is that it isn't commercially available to states other than WA.. WA has manufacturing rights for the product as does the US, so getting it over east would require shipping it to you, but it has proven itself more than once in our race car.. Anyway, I hope this helps MaTTe

Hey fellas, I know this is on another forum, but it should open your eyes a little.. Oil test results I haven't personally used Royal Purple, but according to this test it is OBVIOUSLY the best. I do however use an addative called Microglide that yeilds the same result as Royal Purple did, on a similar pressure wheel. Our pressure wheel isn't submerged in oil like that one, we just put an amount onto the bearing then apply the pressure by hand and watch the pressure gauge, rather than adding free weights. All oils will stop the bearing and score the lifter regerdless of price and quality. (I haven't yet tested Royal Purple, but now I'm keen to) Microglide and PROMA will both coat the lifter and bearing causing no wear and no friction. The bearing will be unstoppable at over 120ft/lbs, whereas any oil will stop the bearing at 30ft/lbs.. Running a 10w60 rather than a 10w30 will provide a thicker oil that'll take a little longer to breakdown, but this will be at the sacrifice of power and economy Microglide with a 10w30 will protect an engine better than a 10w60 could ever hope to.. The only downside to Microglide is that it isn't commercially available to states other than WA.. WA has manufacturing rights for the product as does the US, so getting it over east would require shipping it to you, but it has proven itself more than once in our race car.. Anyway, I hope this helps MaTTe

Hey mate, when my TPS went, it was stalling at lights, under acceleration randomly, and acting strange in general.. Conditions were different day to day, and some days it wasn't a problem at all, where others it'd fail at every set of lights.. Some people have had cars idle hunting due to dirty throttlebodies, but if it is stalling even after cleaning throttle body, and you know your injectors are in good condition, then it's probably a TPS If you're not sure about your injectors, get some Redline injector cleaner, it's the only product other than Ultrafuel that I fully recommend. I hope this helps MaTTe

The six speed auto is a difficult job, but the six speed manual (T56) isn't anywhere near as hard.. The conversion is much the same as a T5 conversion, however needs a few extra things to complete it. The hardest part when I converted to manual (T5) was getting ford to line up the manual ECU with my car.. The have hundreds of different ECU maps from BA to BFII, XT-FPV and everything inbetween.. If you're good with tools then it's not all that hard to get the mechanical side of things in, the wiring should come with the conversion if you get a complete conversion kit.. I've still got a complete T5 conversion sitting in the shed, that came out of my car when I had a learner pull out infront of me.. I'm still undecided on whether to make a hotrod with it in a Capri mkI, put in into another BA, or sell it.. It's not a job for the faint harted, but it is WELL worth the effort.. Manual is far more appealing than auto Good luck Cheers, MaTTe