Chris and Liza

G'day It depends on your build date. Early BFIIs came with a 322mm front with a 328mm vented rear. Later models switched to a 322mm front with a 303mm solid rear. And I thought a later model would be better :( Regarding the thickness - minimum thickness should be stamped on the disc somewhere - but they look pretty shot. Time for an upgrade maybe?

G'day F6R I have all the factory settings for the BA XR - I don't know whether your F6 would be different but it might be useful to you. Pm me if you'd like it. Cheers, Chris

I'm having the same problem of chopping out the inside of the tyres. Rear worse than front. I have full alignment specs if anyone is interested - working on a post soon. Cheers, Chris

G'day guys Just ordered adjustable upper arms from Nolathane $482 rrp. Along with all the other Nolathane stuff she'll be nice and tight and wont chop out the tyres anymore :D Cheers Chris

Thanks for your input Hiro As I've only just installed them and I don't drive hard (well not all the time...) I'm hoping the discs last ok. The braking performance sure is a lot better than the worn out old discs and pads! It is possible that they are made in china. I did a fair bit of research and all I could come up with was that they had a factory in Bristol. I was unaware that RDA had merged with DBA. Anyway, I couldn't afford the good stuff so hopefully the cheaper alternative won't be too bad. Chris

Hi Guys I just wanted to tell you all about a good experience I had lately. On eBay there is a seller called RapidRS who I purchased a full set of RDA Gold Passivated Turbo Grooved Sports Rotors and EBC RedStuff Kevlar/Ceramic pads. Their price was a good $300 less than my local brake shop. The level of service provided by Todd and Kathy at RapidRS has been exemplary. The parts were delivered by TNT courier in a matter of days from Melbourne (I am in Sydney). Unfortunately my car suffers from the crummy 303mm solid rear rotors and RapidRS supplied the better 328mm vented rotors by mistake. This problem was identified and sorted out very quickly with no additional cost to me. In fact, RapidRS has given me an unbeatable deal on brakes for my other car (Mazda 121). I encourage everyone to visit their ebay store or their website at Rapid Resource Solutions | CNC Milling | Turning | Engineering Pakenham Todd owns and runs a machining shop which specialises in custom design of brake rotors among other machining, including cnc. Regarding the product - I cannot fault the RDA rotors. A rumour going round is that these are cheap nasty chinese rotors which is not true. They are renamed EBC rotors which is a UK company. The discs are made in their factory in Bristol. The same goes for the pads. I have found the quality of these products to be fine. EBC pads have been around for a long time in motorcycling cirles and have a good reputation. As for the discs I have had no problems with warping having followed the breaking in procedure to the letter and tensioning my wheel nuts correctly. I believe the key is to fully stop as little as possible during the break in period - ie. brake from 60 down to 10 or 20 instead of coming to a complete stop. This should minimise uneven pad transfer. And no, I am not employed by EBC, RDA or RapidRS. I am just a very happy customer. Cheers, Chris

are we torquing our wheel nuts correctly? I took my mazda 121 thrasher to bob janes for a balance and alignment - and out came the trusty rattle gun with a normal deep socket. as an ex-mechanic I always use a torque wrench or a "bendy bar" thingy which goes on the rattle gun to limit the torque ($$$ from the snap-on man). also, make sure the threads of the studs have some anti-seize or at lease some grease on them so you can get the correct tension. just my 2 cents...

Hi Guys I bought a BFII (late '07) ex-chaser from a Ford dealer early this year. It had 53,000km on it at the time. Only problems we have had are a shat turbo (thanks dodgy Ford service - replaced after about a month of fighting) and a worn out diff bush, both replaced under warranty. The front disks will also need replacing but I will have to wear that - hello PBR upgrade kit! As far as the condition of the car was concerned, it's not too bad. There are repaired holes in the driver's side A pillar trim, a piece of carpet stuck on down on the passengers side near the shifter and the usual brackets and holes in the boot. My main concerns for the future are servicing (or replacing the clutch packs in) the auto and replacing the suspension bushes. For something that cost me about half as much as a new one I don't think I did too badly. Chris

I got a reply from Boss Suspension The Falcons use Air strut front and air bag rear. price for a full kit is $2300 and freight is $110. I would prefer air cylinders all round for size, durability and controlability(in cylinders all the 'springing' is done by the air - in a bellows setup the bag itself has some spring effect) Of course anything that requires control arms etc to be 'clearanced' with an angle grinder will not be considered!

I did some more research and found out that Boss Suspension in Qld do alot of air cylinder suspension setups (the DW customs website only list bellows setups). Sent them off an email and will post up the results.

I like the idea of air can suspension. my questions are - 1. What is the ride quality and handling like with this setup? 2. Has anyone done it to a Falcon? 3. Any suppliers in Australia? any ideas would be appreciated. Chris

thanks - I didn't realise performance mode made it spool up quicker. maybe I'm just not driving hard enough!

Hey all, It seems like I have to put my foot down a fair bit (maybe 50-70%) before my T (07 BFII auto stock) starts to boost. Is this normal - or might I have a blockage somewhere? Chris

Not really west of the divide, but Penrith here...

Hi all, Just want to hear peoples opinions on the best flash device for my '07 BFII 'T. I would like to have a custom tune done by a workshop, but I would also like to make minor tweaks at home with my laptop. I have experience with an eliminator chip/programmer and TunerPro RT on my brother's extensively modified EL 6 cylinder and would like to have the same level of control with my turbs. Chris

just got a chip for the factory ecu that will allow me to completely reprogram it - not on the fly unfortunately. check out ti performance (a melbourne based company) who sells the chips for EECIV and EECV. the software I will be using is called TunerPro RT - free download. SUPPORT THE AUSSIE ECONOMY - BUY AUSTRALIAN! (heaps cheaper too!) chris

pm me if you are interested in a pdf...

had a look at the smb system, I really like their cast 4" header pipe, very well made. at $3k for the full system though, I need to start saving up!

Thanks for the feedback guys, I wasn't sure how much clearance there was over the diff/irs area. I am planning my modifications for 600hp / 450kw - what would the optimum pipe size be? I don't want silly loud, but of course I need plenty of flow.

Hey guys Just wondering - has anyone tried a twin three inch exhaust? I crunched some numbers - twin 3 inch pipes give a greater area than a single 4 inch pipe (hence more flow), and would be better for ground clearance? Your thoughts would be appreciated. Chris 2007 BF MkII Ex Chaser Stock as a rock - for now...