Racerx

that's one thing eliminated at least, it all seems to be pointing towards the wastegate. When are you getting it to the tuner?

Good luck with it, interested to see how you go.

Mines the same when its not right, very flat on full noise, almost like a standard falcon. Have to agree with you, nothing quite like a big bike, got me ZZR1100 in the shed. That cheers me up when I get the urge.

No worries m8, I'm no expert, just passing on info I've gleemed off the cleaver people on the site. I'm the same as you, not frightened to have a go myself, rather fix it myself if I can, or at least have some idea before you let the tuner at it. Nothing more insulting, than when you know the cars not right, to have a ford dealer tell you nothings wrong with it, coz no fault codes show up. When these things are running right, there's nothing like them, smooth effortless power, awesome. One other thing, the cat maybe worth a look at given the kays yours has done, have a look down the tail pipe, apparently if you can see gold particles it may be an indication its on its way. A reputable exhaust joint should be able to tell you if its stuffed.

Yea, the norm seems to be to disconnect the battery for at least 30mins, I also turn the lights on or stand on the brake pedal after I've disconnected it, to discharge any residual voltage. To reset the TPS, put your foot flat to the floor for about 10 seconds when you try to start it, once you've done that, start as per normal. I've got one of those small compressors that supercheap sells, the ones with the tank on are best, cheap as and pretty handy.

Hey Bluesmuso, dont think you can move the actuator arm by hand, needs air to move it. If you can get you hands on a small compressor or a handpump it should only take about .5 bar to open it fully. Try soaking it in wd40/crc for a while, did the trick for me for a while. I also tried resetting the PCM and throttle position sensor, which also had an effect. Have you tried taking the hose of the front of the turbo and taking it for 'short' a spin? Did it with mine, went lik f**k but with heaps of lag. Dont continue to drive it like that though if you try it.

Having the same prob with my 06 BF Auto. Tried the usual suggestions, solenoid maintenance, checked for boost leaks, cleaned throttle body. Slight improvement Checking the forum seemed to point towards a wastegate problem, (thanks ravenhard) Here's the things I've tried to check if it's a wastgate issue. Checked hoses from turbo to solenoid, shortened the hose slightly at the turbo end as it was very loose. and replaced the hose from the solenoid to the actuator. Pulled the rear heat shield off so I could get at the wastegate. Got a bit of windshield washer hose and a compressor with a regulator, attached the hose to the top of the solenoid, and fed a bit of air to the actuator at low pressure (.5bar) to see if it moved. Found that the arm wasn't moving freely, so I sprayed it with WD40 which helped it free up and open and close freely. While you have the heatshield off you can use a mirror to look at the weld on the bush and the pivot arm to see if they're broken. Put it back together and took it for a drive, the grin factor was back. Unfortunately it didn't last and has started to get sluggish again, tried spraying it with high temp silicon, feels good again so I'll see how long that lasts , at least can let a tuner know its probably a wastegate issue .

I've been driving my BF 6sp auto with the cruise control switched on all the time, so I can use it whenever I want, by flicking the 1 switch instead of 2. Just wondering if the PCM would recognize this mode as being the same as driving the car like a grandad?

Does having the cruise control turned on but not activated, effect the self learning process of the PCM.

Hey people, Thought I should say hi. About to buy my first xr6t, after reading various posts & driving a BA & BF auto's the BF wins hands down, just got to find the righ one for the right bucks. Great site.