cutsnake

Once upon a time she would PING....now all she does is SING!!! Thanks for the update, I can now give it a boot full without fear of melting the donk CutSnake

I would ahve to disagree on the traction control doing bugger all, I can drive my T in the wet with complete confidence knowing it wont fully spin, it steps out a smidge and that's in fully wet conditions giving it a bootful, I think the TC is great. Dazza. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Maybe I am a bit harsh in saying ''it does bugger all'' , especially for stock T's but I have a work collegue that wrote off his T a couple of weeks ago. He is a honest guy, so I believe him when he says that his T got sideways real quick whilst going in a straight line and only doing about 70-80 Km/h with TC on (totally stock T but it was raining). In this case all he can remember was that he was about to change lanes, so I guess a press of the loud pedal would have caused the auto kickdown....and the rest was history.. I wonder if in this case if the TC made it worse? especially if the car was getting slightly out of shape. What I mean is that TC is meant to apply brakes to spinning wheels, right? Wouldn't that be the same as pulling on the handbrake when the car get slightly sideways??? CutSnake

Guys, I am starting to here about a few T's that are losing it in slippery conditions whether modded or not (traction control does bugger all!). The ones that I know about have been due to kick-down on the auto and hence hitting boost when not expected... I always drive my auto T in SSS mode (manualy selecting gears) in the wet, its the only real way I can be assured that it won't kick down when I don't want it to. I don't mind the arse end stepping out every now and then, but only when I want it to!!!! CutSnake

So I am not the only one... Must tell them to replace it at the next service...

A normal fused cigarette lighter cable is OK. Most have permanently spliced into the cable behind the cig lighter socket. It would pay to add an extra inline fuse with appropratte rating when doing this (value dependant on max current draw of STB, powered antenna...etc) The altronics cable you mentioned is OK as its maximum rating is 5 amp...more than enough for the stb. Just make sure the polarity is the same (centre positive for the Nordmende) P.S. The max current draw of the Nordmende is around 1 amp (the internal fuse of this box is a 1.5 amp) To work out current draw... P=power in watts, I =current in amps, V = voltage in volts P=IxV therefore P/V=I so 10w/12v = 0.833 amps. Surge current will make this temporarily go just over 1 amp (e.g. when first switched on)..... All those years at TAFE are paying off.... Cutsnake

Hi all, As some may be aware, I have a mate that has put the Nordmende Dig TV box in his XR6. This seemed to work OK, so I thought I would buy myself one to try out, plus it will help me fault find Jordak's setup. Did this over the weekend with fairly good results. The things I like over the Teac DVB400:- - No need to change firmware to support NTSC. (just menu changes) - Smaller Box - Cheap (current price is $129 at Megamart) - Colour saturation seems better than Teac - Picture takes full screen size of the ICC screen (Teac is a bit fiddly to get this and aspect ratio doesn't always look right) - No noticeable lip sync problems (Teac has problems on some channels) - When picture doesn't lock e.g. whilst moving, Audio doesn't pop and screech as much as the Teac. - Easy to modify for the ICC infra red remote sensor Things I didn't like:- - Screen navigation (Menu's etc.) is not as good as Teac - Doesn't seem to be a sensitive as the Teac for pulling in weak signals (not much of a difference, but noticeable) All in all it is a good buy for this project.. I can put some new info together with regard to this STB (especially re the IR remote mod) if anyone is interested?? EDIT*** oops accidentally started a new thread.....the other one was getting too long anyway ...**** Regards Cutsnake.

G'Day Cutsnake... I'm running Destinator also!.. hehe It's probably a bit deceiving with the background image I have on my iPAQ. I created the background image myself.. It's just my Windows Background. I've attached the background image for anyone that's interested in adding it to theirs! Feel free to use it. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Had me fooled Looks good, I might pinch your image... Thanks Cutsnake

Wow.. what a coincidence.. I just had the same unit fitted to my BA on Friday.. So now I get DVD, MP3 playback from DVD etc all through my factory BA colour screen. Am purchasing the 12v SD Set Top Box this week for digital TV also. (Probably Normende from Megamart) I assume running through the AV input of the JVC that I won't need to force NTSC out from the STB as the JVC will convert it for me? I'd like to see a few pics of your install to compare how they look.. I would have liked mine more flush with the surrounding console bit, but apparently the unit is pushed back as far as possible due to heater stuff.. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Hey Cameron, Where did you get that SatNav software you have running on the PDA? I have Destinator loaded on mine. Is the Ford one better? Thanks Cutsnake

how do you find the Normende unit? (apart from your obvious scrolling picture prob.).. I've been considering buying this one too. Mainly because it's 12v and quite small. I'm hoping video output won't be a problem for me, as I'm getting a DVD head unit fitted anyway which requires a composite to RGB adaptor and I'm kinda hoping that by using the aux. input on the DVD head unit for my digital tv (via composite) that the signal will get converted to NTSC somewhere along the line! (Or is this just wishful thinking? Will I still need one that forces NTSC output and does the Normende do it? <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Cutsnake put me onto the Normande (myer megamart in Perth)because a mate of his had success with it as it does have the option of switching to NTSC. When I say scrolling I mean to the degree that you cant see a thing other than the menu or a message that says no signal. Chances are that I've wired it up incorrectly however I tried a number of times following cutsnakes editorial which is pretty straight fwd. IH8PORK, happy to let you know if get it sorted however chances are that that wo'nt happen until someone comes to the rescue. Perhaps if enough of us are interested we could chip in to fly cutsnake over , put him up at a swish hotel and hold a joint DIY BA tele workshop. ........hold that that's not such a bad idea , are you there cutsnake:spoton: <{POST_SNAPBACK}> hehe.. Mel to Perth Airfares are bloody expensive. I travel to Perth about 3 or 4 times a year, next trip due around October.... I'll tell you what... send me your box and the wiring loom you made up and I will check it for you and make any necessary fixes. All I ask in return is that you don't mind helping others in the Perth area that may be stuck with the setup.... If your interested, PM me and I will send you my address.. Cutsnake...

Whats valve springs got to do with pinging?? (confused) <{POST_SNAPBACK}> I think he is pulling someones leg :rain: :rain: so to speak!!!! the availability in the latest software for accelerator pump will help reduce ping under acceleration where as if mario is using the old as I am this function is not there!!!! <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Hey DW, tell me more about the acc pump function update. Hopefully this will help me??

Hmmm..... Looks like it will. Is anyone willing to invest in one and try it out?? Cutsnake

Mine had the same problem a year ago (up hill and all). Dealer apparently regapped plugs and all is OK now.. Cutsnake

Under certain wind directions / speed. The removal of the stone tray will make your front bumber vibrate violently and make an awfull noise. (I thought I caught a bird in the engine bay! I know this first hand.... Mine when straight back on..... Cutsnake

Boost Creep is what is causing mine to Ping under the same circumstances. Do you have a boost gauge? If you do you will notice that it spikes around 20-30% more boost when you floor it (especially on auto kick down) before it settles to the nominted boost setting. My guess is that the sh*tty waste gates in the turbo can't keep up with the sudden boost change... I think the best fix for mine would be some new injectors to cope with the extra fuel needed to keep up with the extra air during boost creep.. Cutsnake

I am happy to help where I can, but it won't be for a few weeks as I am travelling at the moment.. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> That's great Cutsnake.......where you from?? <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Northern suburbs Melbourne... <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Ok so what do you recommend to get for this to happen.........at the moment l have a Blaupunkt DVD Player ME1 with Interface leads and RGB running off a Blaupunkt Signal Convertor IVSC 5501...........where do l go and buy them at what price and again l appreciate your help <{POST_SNAPBACK}> I am not that famliar with IVSC, but I believe it accepts a standard composite video signal. If this is the case, then it could be a simple as sourcing a standard 12v Set Top Box (STB) and hooking it straight in. I am happy to catch up to have a look at your setup and recommend whats needed, when I am back from my travelling.. CutSnake

I am happy to help where I can, but it won't be for a few weeks as I am travelling at the moment.. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> That's great Cutsnake.......where you from?? <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Northern suburbs Melbourne...

I am happy to help where I can, but it won't be for a few weeks as I am travelling at the moment..

Sorry, no time to put a kit together, but I can update the doc with the latest STB available (as mentioned in the earlier post). I can do this when I get back from my travels (Perth this week, Coolum next week and Japan the week after.......I miss my T ) Bye for now CutSnake

The trick is to tap into the ICC infrared receiver (it is located on the upper part of the ICC screen surround). This will then need to be fed straight into the Dig TV box and viola! no need to point at the boot!! :lol: This should not be to difficult. I will let you know how I go. Cutsnake <{POST_SNAPBACK}> What is the Infra red port usually used for on the ICC ?? <{POST_SNAPBACK}> The IR on the ICC is there for the remote on the SatNav option on higher spec fords.. btw.. There is a 12volt STB that supports NTSC RGB straight out of the box. I have seen it for sale for around $150 at Myer Megamart. The brand is Nordmende. I have a mate who has put one of these in his XR6 and it seems to work quite well... Cutsnake

Yeah, I have the DIY under the headlight job with a K&N filter. Even though I have a custome tune, I might block it off and see if it makes a difference. Thanks for the tip.. Cutsnake

OK, I think I have boost spike not creep. Found this explanation on the net (Still searching for the cure..). ------------------- Boost creep is rising boost due to not enough exhaust bypassing the housing. For example, you're set for 13 psi, and when you floor it, you get a quick rise to 13 or 14 psi. But then as rpm's climb, the boost creeps higher and higher: 14, 15, 16, 17, etc. Enlargening the wastegate hole is one cure for boost creep, as you did. Spiking is when your wastegate hole is large enough, but your actuator can is taking too long to fill with compressed air, so you *temporarily* overshoot your boost level. Example: you're set for 13 psi, and when you floor it it quickly rises to 16 psi, but then gradually drops downward towards 13 psi again. A common problem with modded engines is a combination of spiking AND boost creep. That's where you're set for 13 psi, and when you floor if it overshoots to 16 psi, *begins* to drop back down, but as the rpm's rise it goes up again! Normal boost rise when set to 13 psi = shoots up to 14, then 13, 13, 13... Spiking = shoots up to 16, then 15, 14, 13, 13, 13... Boost creep = shoots up to 14, then 13, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17... Spiking and boost creep = shoots up to 16, then 15, 14, 13, 14, 15, 16,17... Set a manual boost control to 11 psi and floor it slowly in high gear. It should go to 11 psi and hold it pretty well. If it starts to slowly climb over 11 psi as the rpm's get high, that's "creeping". The boost creeps higher at high rpm's because there's too much exhaust flow for the wastegate hole to bypass. Now go to 11 psi again, but tromp on it quickly! It will shoot to 13, or 14, or 15 psi, then drop down to 11 and stay there. That's "spiking". Spiking is a quick flash of high boost that goes a little beyond your set boost point. If you are set for 11 psi, and you tromp on it quickly, this might happen: boost "spikes" to 14, quickly drops to 11, then slowly "creeps" back to 14 or more as the rpm's climb. Now you are seeing spiking followed by creeping! -------------------

Gday All, I am not sure if I am using the right term (boost creep?) but I have a problem with boost spiking more than it set for, before settling to its setting. For example with either 8 or 10 psi boost maps (custom edits), when nailing the throttle it goes over the boost setting by around 4 psi before it goes back to normal. This isn't happening all the time but it is definately noticeble on kick-down (auto) and early in the morning (cool air). I am little concerned the afr's will be way out when this is happening, plus it pings which can't be too good for the motor. I have noticed this with the factory map, but its no where near as noticeable. Has anyone else noticed this? Is it caused by a lazy wastegate?. Is there anything that can be done to correct this? Thanks Cutsnake

Just the cost of the CAPA box so far... (Thanks to Synowog ) <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Oops...that's Dynowog not Synowog Had the maps re-tuned today to get rid of the ping. All looks good so far I had a Gtech run in my usual private road . Even though I eased it off the line (don't want to kill the auto just yet..) I got 13.1 @ 110 MPH. I think I can get into the 12's with a harder launch (my 60 ft time was about the same as my pre-edit runs) Also, I thought I might share with you some the results of the Gtech Dyno result (I have one of the fancy 3 chip accelerometer ones). The Gtech showed pretty much same results as DW's Dyno for both pre-edit and post-edit runs. I.e. around 175Kw pre edit and 245 post edit. So much for DW's dyno being out of whack.... Once again thanks DW Cutsnake

Gasket remover is apparently safer. I used some on the crossover plenum as the paint was starting to peel anyway.

Just the cost of the CAPA box so far... (Thanks to Synowog )