igsta

There has been oil coming out the back of my power steering pump for years now and it started getting worse. I dont think its the fitting on the hose because that seems dry and the oil level for the power steering is always full. I think its the seal for the pulley. Has anyone changed the seal for this pulley as Im pretty sure its motor oil leaking.

No. Its specified for autos. Dont worry its still the best for T5.

Definately Transmax Z

http://autospeed.com:80/cms/A_110942/article.html

K-mac do quality work but they are a bit more expensive than most places.

Put kings in the front SL. (I have SSL, looks good but a bit too low) Reset Your rear by 2 inches. No need to change the shocks they will be fine. Camber kit "should" only be required with a SSL at the front. I paid $400 for the lot on my ute including labour and its still fine after 4 years.

My car did it for a few months after it was 6 months old. My car is 5 years old now and hasnt made the noise since. I did change to Transmax Z.

Yeah I have seen birds scratch cars. They jump on there trying to catch insects.

Its amazing what cold weather can do to turbo cars. On a really cold night I reckon about an extra 15 rwkw is available for these cars over 300rwkw.

I agree on the flat hard lid looks 100 times better. The one with the buldge looks like it wasnt designed properly and dosnt fit. The flat one is sleek and looks part of the car. Not to mention the flat are strong durable fibreglass where the bulge type are plastic. My 2 leg wing is over 4 years old and is still in perfect condition.

A stock car cannot over boost other than a few with problems. You dont have control of the boost, it goes to 5 - 6 psi when you put your foot down tapering off a little as you reach red line.

Almost 3 years for me. All is good. Touch wood.

In standard form there is not much between them, the T being a bit better alround except the exhaust note. If your happy with the performance of the 8 and you dont think you will want more power down the track then the 8 is for you. If you think you will want more power the answer is simple, go the T.

I would wait at least 3000ks so the piston rings bed in. You dont want a car that chews through oil. My car seemed to perform the best between 20 000ks and 60 000ks. I have about 90 000ks now though still going strong.

Mine is an original Ford wing. I can pick the whole hard cover (which is the old heavy one) by the middle of the wing and it wont even flex a bit.

The BA hard covers looked heaps better and were a strong fibre glass. The wings didnt wobble either. Bloody Fraud and there cost cutting. So I take it you havnt heard of running in your engine before giving it a hard time to let those poor piston rings bed in properly. Anyways sweet ride.

These bolts should be tightened every 10000ks. If Ford service your car you have to ask them to tighten the bolts. Otherwise do it your self its easy. It is a common problem with turbos not just Ford. Its due to the extreme temperature variations that works the bolts loose.

You shouldnt be hitting the limiter in a brand new car. At least wait about 3000ks. Your piston rings need time to bed in and the motor itself needs a bit of time to loosen up a bit. There are many ways to run your car in according to this forum and I for one did not drive it like I stole it when I first bought it. I did take it easy for the first 3000ks and my car now is definately no slug and does not burn any oil. Just drive it however your heart tells you to. Dont worry about it too much though it should be right either way.

The new castrol SAF XA 80W 140 has the additive in it already. The old SAF XA did not have the additive. I think it was a 75W 140. I have changed to this oil and it has done wonders to my diff. I Recommend it.

I changed my diff oil to SAF-XA and what do you know, the noise has completly gone. I cant believe that Ford put the wrong oil in, gives me the sh*ts. I hope that driving around with the wrong oil in the diff for 10 months didnt damage anything. I was going to take my car to Ford to get the clutch replaced, definately not now. I recommend this Castrol fully synthetic oil, the handbook even says to change the oil every 7500km in frequent or prolonged high speeds.

Thanks Muz this did cross my mind. Maybe they did put the wrong oil in or even worse not enough.

I took my ute to Ford about 6 months ago to fix a whine at about 80 km/h. When I got the car back the whine was gone at 80 km/h but was present at 100km/h. Anyhow I dealt with it . A few months after that a new noise appeared. When turning and accelarating It sounds like metal on metal noise coming from the diff. Sounds a bit like when your brakes are gone and you are rubbing metal to metal. This noise is getting worse everyday. I think it may have something to do with the LSD as the wheels turn at different speeds when turning. Does anyone know what could be the problem. Does Ford have warranty on their work even though the car is out of warranty. Thanks

Are you talking in a manual. If it is then I had the same prob as well. Just take off the plastic surround that holds the leather. Under that there is a piece of sponge that is supposed to sit at the bottom of the gear shift leaver, I think it stops noise or something. Mine rose to the top and so was squeeking when changing gears.