shadyxr

What the heck. Why wait till tomorrow. All done.

Thanks XR06T. Some dough going that way tomorrow. Great site.

Want to make a donation. Can someone confirm if the account details are still the same as they were posted in August 2003.

Bugster, Did mine last week. Getting the intakes etc off is pretty straight forward. Once you have the plastic cover off (allen key needed) you will see the coil on plug setup. Just take them off one at a time so as not to mix up, they can be a bit tight but if you twist them they will release ok. The plug's are buried down about 4 inches so you will need a long extension. Number six is a bit tight to get at. You will need a plug socket with the foam insert to lift the plug out or you can use a long piece of rubber hose, just push it over the plug tip & lift out. I used the end of pliers (tap the tag on them) to reduce the gap, just take your time. The plugs are taper seat so you just need to nip them up, not too tight, I used a smear of anti-sieze on the thread. A little WD40 on the rubber sleeve helps too. Should take you about 3-4 stubbies. Cheers

Mine spat it last night when taking old mate the Expensive Daewoo fan for a run. Woudn't you know it. myself when it popped. Off to Pirtek today and fit some "T" bolt clamps.

Bugster70. I regapped mine yesterday. It's not a bad job getting the intakes etc off but you will need a socket to suit with the foam centre to capture the plug and lift it out. They are buried about 4 inches down the hole. I did not worry too much about tension as they are tappered seat plugs but I did put some neversieze on the threads. Iv'e been told to gap at 0.8-0.9mm. I went 0.85. Yes they are Iridium plugs. Cheers.

Mine too Adam, just trying to point out that if you play with it and it fails then you need to live with it or you haven't done your homework.

Go the edit. Had mine done last week and love it. Make sure you check out the afr's as I have been advised.

I don't totally agree. Hypothetically if it was tuned incorrectly and 2 weeks from now it let go would you still be happy because it worked for 2 weeks? I think not! Let's say that it did blow up because the AFR's are up the sh!t, you can't just say "my fault, I pushed to hard" for everything that happens without knowing the causes. Anyway... I'm glad your happy with your tune Shady! Pretty impressive for the mods you have, or lack of. I'm with Jet on the point that your midrange could do with about 30rwkw's more though. Understand what your saying Adam. I like the feedback. Did the one that blew up happen due to afr's being that bad ? I will take everyones advice and check it out further.

Hi DBoss, I like to hear both sides of the story. I spent heaps of time reserching the XRT before I bought it. I did the same before I decided to do the edit and whilst we all have our own ideas on what gets results and what doesn't, I really think we should take the line that if it makes you happy then it worked. If it blows up because you pushed the limit then don't blame the guy you paid to stuff about with you car. John did a good job, I'm happy and so it goes on. I'm sorry to hear you had a bad experience but if you push the envelope something has to give. Let's try to keep the discussion on a level that keeps us all informed as you have done by providing your experience. Still love the "T" and the tune. Cheers.

Have fitted Typhoon CAI + K&N Filter, apart from that it's stock. The motor has always felt strong from day one and I ran it in with some good advice and spirited driving in the highlands of northern NSW. Sounds like a good result but if I were you I would get it re-checked on a inderpendent dyno as Intune's dyno figures and AFR's are a little bit sus plus it gives you piece of mind IMHO CYA JEFF Don't even start with your opinion of intune Jeff... Hey Lawsy. Understand what your saying is 100% spot on. The tune is exactly as you suggested. It comes on strong from about 3200rpm. John was informative and treated my car like it was his. He took his time to get it right and I am very happy with it. perhaps the next step is to post some times at the Creek just to satisfy all. Jeff (DRBOSS) is all good shady, but he had a run in with john from intune. He's the only bloke that we actually know of (fictional characters asside) that has had any issues with Intune. I've watched him dyno tune, and his ARF's almost never go beyond 12.5. He keeps his AFR's quite good for all his tunes. He is perfectly capable, considering he has been racing and tuning cars for over 20 years.... You know... The guy wasn't born yesterday and knows a thing or two about cars, then along comes someone who has an issue and bad mouths him as if John hasn't a clue. Clearly, he knows what hes doing. He has done ground up builds of several cars and has built, just from parts, many an engine with EFI, carby, turbo, supercharger etc. He has recognised qualifications in this field, jeff, I'm sorry, but you don't. I barely know the bloke, but when I see an someone battling away at his business and someone comes along and unfairly badmouths him, its just not on and I goto stand up for them... Jeff, please mate, drop it. You had your issue, that's fine, you keep swallowing your bitter little pill. But keep the noise to yourself, we don't want to hear about it. Shady, your tune is fine. John typically tunes in a little more grunt around 3500rpm, so if it feels like it suddenly comes on, that's because it is! Enjoy it!

Have fitted Typhoon CAI + K&N Filter, apart from that it's stock. The motor has always felt strong from day one and I ran it in with some good advice and spirited driving in the highlands of northern NSW.

10psi Happyxrt

Hi all, Had the edit/custom tune last week and went on 4 day drive. Very impressed with the performance etc but have some slight flutter or surging. Have attached dyno chart as some members were suprised at the figures considering the mod's.

Turbomuz, 98 fuel. Fitted 2nd CAI & K&N filter, otherwise standard. Stock figure was 205rwkw. Will post you chart next week. About to go away for 4 days. Great for test. Cheers

Had the CAPA edit & custom tune done yesterday. 260.3rwkw. I spent many months viewing topics about this and thanks to everyone on this great forum I think I made the right decision. Faaaantastic. Love it.

Hazey, I had the same problem & fixed myself. If you look in the lower opening you will find two thredded holes in the centre steel support rail. I made two curved brackets about 70mm long and had a mate hold the bar up when tightening them. These support the centre section and mine has been fine since (2003 build) Cheers.

Hi all. The best part of this story is the driver is a mate who owns a new SS Crewman. I let him drive home from a gathering due to me having a drink, anyhow we stopped at lights beside WRX and with some encouragment from passenger (he he!!) we got the jump and WRX pulled out, next lights same deal, WRX pulled out, last set WRX was serious, he got the jump by a car length but the next 3-4 seconds were just magic. The rest is history. WRX owner going for trade in me thinks, old mate SS Crewman driver may also be changing his mind. Just can't get enough. By the way, Standard "T", auto, Phantom. Love it

Dunlop SP 3000's, 17's & 40psi all round (Nitrogen) I have been monitoring tread wear in conjunction with my tyre people which involves rotation every 5,000km. We take 5 readings on tread depth across the face of the tyre and to date have maintained a difference in depth of 0.4mm to 0.7mm overall. Last reading was done at 24,636 kms with an average of 5mm depth remaining. Calculating the wear rate over 7,382kms between last rotate shows wear at around 1mm per 5,000km. Based on remaining tread depth we expect to get 40,000km plus from these tyres mearsured at the wear bar indicators. Cheers

Gotta love those support stands. Cedar or Jara ?

Try D & R Diffs. Unit12/26 Barry Road, Chipping Norton (Sydney) These guys are great. Ph: 9755 4357

Vik, I'll get some pics and post. They might be a bit hard to see as I painted them flat black.

I felt the same Vik but was determined to fix it myself as per previous post. It's not a big job.

Hey all, Had the same problem and fixed myself. If you look in the lower air dam opening you will see two pre-drilled & thredded holes in the metal inner reinforcing rail. I made two flat, curved brackets and bolted them to these holes. Problem solved. Just get someone to hold the bar up when you tighten them.

Try buying the specified oil from Ford. No one can supply the spec listed in owners manual. The dealers all use different brands and viscosity. I'm still trying to work it out.