Hazey

Had my car in at service on Monday and Today for more tests. Well just got a call from them to say they are finished and found what the problem is. They said it was overboosting that was causing it.!!?? wtf So what have they done, Apply the famous flash to the ECU! (I have a 04 MKII) They said that they have reduced the sound of it by 95% and the reason it is slightly still there is because of my 2nd CAI. Now this is absolutly crap as I was having this issue before I fitted the 2nd CAI Will see how we go when I pick it up, Me thinking I am going to be real pi$$ed when I pick it up cus it will Feel like it won't go as hard and still have the sound! Aidan

So only Chrome or Hyperblack.. I could have sworn that the ones in the photo (on the 200sx) were normal alloy colour and just the extra bit on the edge of spokes were in chrome. See pic for what I mean I called Aust Best Tyres in Syd and they said $2800 for a package of 19" and tyres Those prices above on that website are $US arent they. Hyper black might go with Rapid though Aidan

Saw these wheels on a 200sx and straight away I knew they were the ones for my T. Anyone know what they are, they had a Lenzo centre cap, but want to know the model Cheers Aidan

I cannot believe that!, what a joke and here I am trying to do the right thing by my insurance and hope they treat me right so I can form a strong bond for situations like what was just mentioned by Barry Blue. Obviously it dont mean jack squat!

Just did some searching and found that the SL are 50mm and SSL are 60mm So they are both over the 30mm requirement of NRMA. I think I will let insurance know, tell them 30mm and paint them black before fitting. Thanks Aidan

Looking at Changing to Kings SL front and SSL Rear. Those who have done this have you told insurance, Is there a need to. Its not like the wheels are going to be sitting under the guards and I would hope the springs were painted black so If I ever had to make a claim, would they notice? Couldnt I just say that's how it was, they must have sagged I am just worried that when I call to ask that: 1) I get rejected and funs over before it begain 2) They allow but I use up 1 allowable mod and might reduce the chance of being able to get 19's, exhaust and edit down the track I am in Sydney and with NRMA, first year of insurance under my own name. Cheers Aidan

Well incase you need some here are some of mine. Aidan

I am 22 and from sydney with NRMA pay just under 3,000, clean record, 60%NCB They were the only one that would insure me and treated me right. I tried Just cars.. were more expensive and I dont trust them. NRMA go by years of driving not years of insurence, so when I turn 23 It should drop about 1,000 (which is in 6months) Howeever!, in saying that I just jumped onto their online quote system (which is what I used before I applied) and the quote was 4,500 wtf??? So now I am thinking they will up my premium Aidan

Also sometimes when I turn the engine off I hear this loud wind down bearing noise(lasts about 2 sec) Also If I disconnect the Turbo Pipe I can a little bit of brown oil sitting on the edge near the fins thanks Aidan

If anyone cares I have something to add that I have noticed. Before this problem If I sat at 3 grand in 2nd then gunned it when it got to 4,000rpm the thing would just shoot and go so hard (turbo fully spooled up and squeeling like it is supposed to), So from 3,000 to 4,000 it would pull and start to spool up and once it got to 4,000 the tacho would sling shot and car would go so hard So now at that same point(4,00rpm), insted of the big rush I get this whistle sound Aidan

Have you noticed any strange noises at all, especially when the window is down. Maybe like a Whistle or squeel (firecracker wizzing in the sky sound) I currently have this problem on my T and its not performing 100%. Before If I sat at 3 grand in 2nd then gunned it when it got to 4,000rpm the thing would just shoot and go so hard (turbo fully spooled up), So from 3,000 to 4,000 it would pull and start to spull and once it got to 4,000 the tacho would sling shot Now at that same point, insted of the big rush I get this squeel. Aidan

I have premium sound and ICC and have the fairmont clock.If I replace this with gauges what can I do about the time. Can it be displayed in the ICC or Dash?

So if torque tags have been added between gears and we remove them via edit whats the effect of this on driveline, clutch etc hmm...

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...7912215590&rd=1 These are similar to ZENETTI Fusion wheels but without the allen-key/rivet looking things <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Hi there, would you be able to tell me that rims they were? I like the fusions but dont like the rivits Ta

Why do you have to put the stock system back on? Ford would have to prove how your cnt. muff. mod caused the prob. with the turbo which I wouldn't have thought they would be able to do. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> yeah I know what your saying.. I just dont want them noting it down on their records. Lets just say I dont have the best luck and for mine in 6months time I could have engine trouble/exhaust trouble and I dont want warranty issues.

What about retaining what is currently there, just replace the muffler with 1) High Flow Muffler OR 2) Get exhaust place to take abart the muffler and replace with straight through pipes(perforated??) Has anyone thought about or done the above. The only advantage I can see for doing the above is cost saving and not having to worry about warranty problems or Insurance etc. For example, I had the centre muffler replaced with 2.25 pipes and hotdogs with flanges. (sounds awesome, no drone) But now have to stuff around with putting the stock unit back in as the car needs to go back to ford for a turbo issue under ford warranty (turbo problem was there before I got the exhaust mod) Aidan

I too have this delay/lag being mentioned. I find if I do quicker shifts including the footwork part it does not occur (the ones that sometimes result in chirps) This leads me to believe its the driving style causing it. The timing of your clutch and accelerator replacement. I'm confused now.. as I can remember it happening when changing quickly too. Maybe its footwork consistency Aidan

I also have this problem. I just considered it normal as you are putting the engine under load at such low rpm? Is there a fix for this? does the changing of oil fix this and other things?

Mine has 9,000k's on it and does not have the sound you all describe the only problem I have is sometimes (say 5 out of 10 goes) shifting from 1st to 2nd or 2nd to 3rd it wont feel solid, like its hitting metal and not a rubber feel?? Aidan

Nope, The heat shield did not have to come off. the only heat shield there is where the centre muffler and pipes are sit moulded above it on the underbody of the car. The only place where heat shield raps the exhaust is after the last flange going forward toward the cat and dump pipe.

I don't understand.. why does this need replacing? Can somone explain this. I will mention that the tin rattle sound when going over vibrations in the road is back (just had this fixed by ford prior to getting the exhaust mod) Not sure if I wanna ask ford to fix again, as they will question the Centre muffler

Oh and did I mention I had a run with a BMW M3 (E36), his nose was inline with my rear through 1st and 2nd as 3rd gear running out gets his nose in front of me. Yes he was definatly trying right from the start. I was happy

Well I went and did it! Took the centre Muffler out and replaced with 2.25" pipes and 2x2.25 Hotdogs. What can I say? Awesome! the note is just great and no drone at all! Definatly picked up power, the thing just pulls harder right from idle right to top of rev range. If I try can chirp 3rd gear Fuel consumption has also improved. Filled up a full tank, reset trip computer, have done 250km with combination of very spirited driving and occasional cruise. 16L/100km, The best I have had is 18 Cheers Aidan

Heard back from the dealership and they think it could possibly be the turbo.

I am considering doing the Centre Muffler removal mod. I have done lots and lots of researching and have come up with the following: Replace the Centre muffler with 2 x 2.25" Hotdogs as this seems to have fixed those that experienced a bit of drone with having just replaced with pipes. Why 2.25 and not 2.5, read further below. Droning: ---------- I would like those that have done the above to post what size pipes they replaced with, be it 2.25 or 2.5 and if they experienced any droning what so ever. (Is is possible that the only ones that droned were 2.5" not the 2.25") Power Increase: ------------------ Some people said they noticed slight increase others alot more (some have dyno proven figures) What about people that reported 10rwkw+ increase (e.g test from zoom magazine) Could it be that those that went 2.5 only had a slight increase and those that went 2.25 ended up with 10+rwkw? Read on.. A User on this forums 56Mainline found the following: ------------------------------------------------------------ "Replacement of the centre muffler with 2x 2.25" * Power and torque are up right across the rev range. * Peak power was up by 14rwkW at around 5000rpm, and torque at peak power was up by 55Nm. * Mid range power was up by a maximum of 21rwkW (approx 2800 to 3500rpm). *Bottom-end through to 3000rpm saw torque increase between 70 and 80Nm. And you notice it when you drive her! * The greatest difference/improvement is in the lower to middle rev range.....where it is useable!" Instead of using the 2x 2.25 he used single 3" and I quote "system did give improvements in both rwkW & torque right across the rev range, but at only around half (!!!) of the improvement achieved by the 2x2.25". Thanks for reading, if commenting lets keep on topic. Cheers Aidan