Moose

Will get pics and details once she returns! For now, still trying to sort out all the fault code errors :(

An oil cooler is a hell of a lot cheeper than a new gearbox! I missunderstood what my mechanic said, my heat exchanger is gone completly as well thanks to the oil cooler that's now installed

Did both, replaced it so that the water side of things there is ok and added an oil cooler as well. After a test on the ground cable from the block to battery, there was only 2 volts of charge running through it, so this could be the problem!! They're working on it now But yeh, current bill is at $6k with the oil cooler included, a service, new power steering pump n a few other issues fixed :( the box was totally f*cked, all clutches gone and a few solenoids fried out!

I have a battery relocater kit for my PWR cooler, could be that not hooked in properly?

Hey guys, Quick run down. My ZF blew up. Something corroded allowing water into the gearbox oil, following that the filter seased and staved the box of oil. Its all been rebuilt, but now my car has like 1000 error codes :S Even audio errors :S The biggest issue is the Speed Sensor - Keeps coming up with an error, related to the ABS. But, when inside the gearbox computer, the guys at the workshop cant find the ABS. They can clear the error codes, and drive up the street, then bang! Speed Sensor issue :( Any ideas anyone?

he probably bought all the gear from supercheap to do this!! lmao

Check out this joker!! :\ FORD FPV TYPHOON GT BUMPER WITH HEADLIGHTS BA-BF XR6 (eBay item 270660333291 end time 17-Nov-10 20:32:22 AEDST) : Cars, Bikes, Boats What was he thinking? Not even close to a GT bar, and the headlights are just XT :S Oh, and it looks ORSOM - no one bid, its mine!! P.S. if you're a member on here, im SOOOO sorry

Hey mate will shoot you a PM now I live in Ipswich but will drive to Sunny/Gold Coast, Brisbane, Toowoomba etc etc - who knows their sh*t for gearbox tuning? Cuz if I get the box rebuilt, I want a proper tune so she's all sweet. So im a bit nuts to put a manual in?

Mal Wood quoted me $9k walk in walk out, and ive just had one quote for $6,500 and one for $7,000 from two mechanics (one is my regular) walk in walk out. All tuning, all parts, all fitted etc etc. I was considering having the ZF rebuilt, but then I'm still going to have clunking issues and issues with my gear selection - plus, I've got no idea who rebuilds ZF's that's local to Brisbane, I'll send a few more PM's and hope I get some replies No idea what to do yet, I've spoken to a few people with the T56 and a good clutch and they say they love it. As for the box, it'll go on eBay with the possible problems and will sell to the highest bidder, if I dont rebuild it. EDIT: Tried to pm typhoon_freak and it says he cant accept new msgs, so can anyone give me some numbers for ZF rebuilders?

Well I've decided im going to put the manual in it! Solves alot of issues and will cost me about $6.5k thru my mechanic walk in walk out all new parts etc. Will keep you guys posted on how she goes, kinda excited for the manual - anything I should be worried about? lol

Ford confirmed the worst :( its cactus. The oil filter/pump in the gearbox seized or blocked up, causing the gearbox to stave for oil. End result, it now slips and is basically rooted and will need to be replaced. So not sure what to do, have the ZF rebuilt into a much tuffer box, or put the manual behind it? First quote for the manual conversion, walk in walk out with a 550kw clutch was $9k.... :\ And will send Rapid a PM, Thanks for the help everyone And cheers for the comment on the wheels, haven't had em long (and scratched the front left putting the car on that fkn trailer!!!)

Hey everyone, My F6 is currently down at Ford getting looked at for suspected gearbox issues - the car still drives normally, but the gearbox makes a very loud whining sound and slips very bad, mind you all of this happened in a matter of 5 hours. Whine started very low, then got a bit louder, louder, louder, then started to slip n carry on - I had to drive it home but it wasnt far once it started slipping. Also, just before it started to slip, the D symbol in the dash started to flash and kept flashing all the way home, but when I turned it back on to move it later at home, it wasnt flashing. I also have the issues with my manual select mode not working 100%, apparently because ive changed my diff gears? I've been told the 6 speed manual will have no issues with diff gears (yes I know I'll have to change them again for the manual) and would also be a cheaper option over the zf replacement. My questions are, is my gearbox about to die? And if so, would a 6 speed be a better option? Car is an 06 BF F6. Cheers, Mitch

Thanks Trev, but none of that sounded like the problem at hand. Deff an LSD, spent $7,500 for a full heavy duty 'almost drag built' diff setup so it'd wanna be. Roughly what I was thinking too - as for why? I blew the whole rear end (diff, bushes, mounts, axles) so I had to replace it, upgraded it to heavy duty billet (everything billet) and went to 3.46 ratio's because I can/could at the time (is massively worth it when you notice the difference ) 100% spot on, it is consistent, its exactly the same, time and time again, with no changes. For the heating up thing, I can remember never having to do this before either?! So im really lost on whats causing the problems :(

Oh yeh, been through alot :( haha - what is the best to upgrade to? ChipTorque said Process West? What sorta prices? Would I be better off to wait until I do a plennum too? On a truck today? Wasn't me dude she drives around - as for the top bit, was in a prang earlier in the year and am still waiting on that piece to come!

Hey guys, Have posted this before and no one had seemed to have seen the problem, had them problem them selves or had any idea what may have been wrong. Ford have had a look at this, and told me after I got it custom tuned, if the issues wasn't sorted to come back. (read further to find out more) So, here's the story. Around 12 months back I blew my diff (2.73 gears - standard) and had the whole diff & axle setup replaced, and went to 3.46 gears. The very day after getting it back, the gear box has been playing up. When I go to select manual shift (knocking the stick over) it just stays in drive and doesn't allow me to select the gears. After driving the car for say 15-20 minutes, the gears will then work, and keep working. It may take a bit of playing around (manual to auto mode back and forth a few times, up and down the gears a few times) before it will hold a said gear and display on the dash, but once it does its right. Then if I drive the car around for a while and turn it off for 1 hour or more, the gears then wont work. Or, it will only take a few minutes of driving before they work. If its left over night, I gotta start all over again. Now, ford had a look at it, and they did originally fix the problem for 2 days, but then after it started again, and they looked at it again, they have since said there must be a different fault causing the same problem, as what they fixed last time is still ok, and now they cannot figure out what is wrong. They suggested maybe getting the new diff ratio tuned in would fix the problem - how ever ChipTorque were unable to fix the problem this way. So, my last option now is to go back to ford, and say WTF. Has anyone had any similar problems? Is there anything I can try fix/replace/check etc? Cheers, Mitch.

Hey guys!! After a long wait, I am finally a member of the 300kw club! Be it only 4.3kw over, im still there Made around 720nm of torque @ 4500rpm too which isn't too bad. The guys at ChipTorque said that my PWR intercooler is holding me back from running more boost and producing more power, they estimated its holding me back by 30-50rwkw - which is alot!! They said the design of the PWR incooler isnt very effective AND the fins inside collapse on them selves under alot of boost, leaving the core useless. Has anyone else heard/experienced this? Anyone running a PWR cooler and had/having problems? Anyway, here's what I've got done - all work done by Scotts Rods in Ipswich Performance: 4" turbo-back XFORCE Stainless Steel exhaust system (customized/modified) Upgraded rear housing with ported waste-gate 10lb actuator PWR cooler + pipe kit & air intake Oil catch can, braided turbo feed line + earls filter and fittings Alloy radiator over-flow tank 42lb Injectors In-take Bosch .044 fuel pump 20% Under drive kit (smaller harmonic balancer + new belt & seals) Heavy Duty Billet LSD & Diff with 3.46 gears (changed from 2.76) Heavy Duty Axles Handling: Munroe GT Gas 'lowered' Shocks King Springs 'L' Fronts King Springs 'SSL' Rears Brakes: DBA 4000 Gold Series Cross Drilled & Slotted (Front and Back) DBA High Performance 4x4 Pads (Front and Back) Other: Genuine V8 GT-P Hood Kicker 12" Sub + Apline 1000rms mono-block amp Upgraded speakers + Pioneer MP3/iPod etc head unit If the images dont work please let me know. Some of the photos are before my accident, any photos with gray fog-lights are after the prang. Missing a piece of the grille, will be here shortly And... here's the diff after I got done with it :( lol

Mines an ex-police car, but it was one of the Highway Pursuit cars with all the banners and pretty lights. My only con's after getting the car was that (and it took me a bit to notice) there was no side 'F6 Typhoon' badges on my rear doors. Pro's, the service manual showed that on each service, more was done than necessary and the brakes were relatively fresh (10,000k old) when I got the car. I got it at 44,000k's, it now has 104,000k's and still going strong - nothing damaged, nothing that needs fixing. The motor has held up well and after a tune next Friday should comfortably make 420-440rwhp daily Oh, one other con, when I removed my front bar for the first time I noticed it had been in a front ender, it had been fixed well but there was fiberglass on the inside. Also the fog-light covers were painted red to match the police stuff, they are now gray and I have a new front bar after another front ender lol.

Hey guys, Was unfortunate to have a crash on the weekend, front ender, and my bonet is smashed shut. Its going to a Paint & Panel place in the coming weeks, I haven't decided who I'll use just yet, but regardless of that I have a question. When going from what ever tune I have installed now, to valet, do I need to remove the fuses in the fuse box under the hood? If so, then I cant put the valet tune in. Which I want to use, as even though all the shops im looking at are reputable businesses, you never know who you can trust, and my car isnt a stocker anymore haha. If anyone has any ideas please let me know Cheers. Mitch (PS - Pic attached before anyone asks )

Pete makes a good point, good dealer or bad dealer, they are car salesmen, and they will do anything to make the sale. As far as they are concerned, they haven't heard from you in this long, so they think they've got away with it. Remember at the end of the day, if the car salesman does sell the car, he doesnt eat, so he wants to make sure those cars go out the door! And again, as Pete said, pay the money & get it fully looked over. Better now then when something else breaks. Edit: I guess I should say they arent all the same, but still, better safe than sorry with any car dealer. Edit 2: If you wanted to give the dealer benifit of the doubt (as in, youve never ever heard a bad thing about them, and everyone you know who has used them has said good things) it could have been serviced by a dodgy mechanic in the shop, that didnt relay the issues to the dealer. Or, relayed the issues to his boss, who just said 'ah f*ck it, its sold'

When I bought my F6 I was 19, no prangs but a few speeding fines and defects (so nothing huge) and my premo was $1400 p/yr full comp. Im now 21 and paying $1099 p/yr full comp!! Edit: BF MKII F6 - Not an FG. $3,500 is f*cked but, I wouldnt have been able to buy my F6 if that was the case.

I'll be there Will have a few with me too, will be a good day!

Sir, you have made my day! $2g give or take is a great price! Ill make some inquires today.

Think I've posted in here before, but for the update: I have 'SELN 2U' on my F6, "Sellin' To You" - Dad has SELN 4U to match on his BMW - "Sellin For You" - We're real estate agents www.ljhooker.com/yamanto hehe

No mine are currently Cloth, is this going to make getting them trimmed to leather any harder? Under $2k for a retrim of all my seats sounds very affordable to me. This has helped, cheers! Edit: The seats ive got left are still 2 good FPV front seats, and the rear twin seat is fine too, its just the single sucker that would need attention - im sure I'd sell just the front two seats to someone who would want to put them into some old ford to cover some costs of the seats.

Hey all, Looking for some info on the 'Regency Red' leather seats, factory in the Force 6 (if optioned). My stock FPV F6 seats are falling apart (back left single seat), with the stitching coming apart at the sides and the lower back piece, looks like a loose belt-stud has pulled it out or something, either way it needs a full re-trim (because all the stitching is loose) or to be replaced with new ones, and I'll sell the standard seats as one back seat being f*cked. My question is, can I buy the full set of Regency Red seats, or would it be cheaper and easier to re-trim my standard seats to match? Photo attached for anyone who hasn't seen them Cheers Mitch.