Moose

I was running 20x10 +35 with stretched 255/30's on my BF F6 sedan with no problem. Ran a 10mm spacer and they just scrubbed. They are also for sale lol

Yes there was a speed sensor unplugged (or not clipped properly) but that only solved the speed sensor issue, it was still lighting up the dash and killing the speedo etc, the fix to that was checking the spark plug gap! Toxic07 - I feel your pain, I really do - I hope it gets sorted sooner rather than later!

I own a BF, so im not sure what the standard tyre sizes on the FG are, but if they are 245/40/18 and 245/35/19 then 245/35/20 would be illegal due to rolling diametre increase of too much - so 245/30/20 is legal. It makes more sense when you look at it like this 245/40/18 245/35/19 245/30/20 But, if the FG has 245/40/19 standard then you'll be right! 35 series will be more comfortable but you gotta stay legal, I've copped 4 defects for wrong tyres just on my typhoon alone!

I had a set of the Federal 595RS on the back on my stock 18's, in 255/35's - they were very slippery in the dry but surprisingly not too bad in the wet. They looked really good sitting fat on the rim, but I probably wouldn't get them again IMHO.

Yeah my problem seems all fixed from just the spark plug gaps! Speedo fine, no lights come on etc. If it comes back, I'll check my ABS unit, because the other bloke on this forum just replaced his ABS unit and bam! fixed!

Hey all, Going to sell my 20's and go for a different look, have found some rims that I really like. They come in 18x9 +15 and 18x9 +32 (they also come in a few different widths, 8.5, 9.5 and even 10's, but I think the 9's all round will be sweet. My question is, would these clear my F6 Brembo's in either the +15 or +32? The rims are Lenso D1R's, don't want to buy them and then have them not fit! thanks all

Well thank f*ck for Elite Auto, turned out to be a speed sensor plug unplugged and my spark plugs gapped too far out. Now waiting to hear back from my mechanic, whos waiting to hear back from ChipTorque, about what to do from here. Its no longer doing the problem, but feels like I have no boost, I'd say that's from the spark plugs and speed sensor not being plugged in. Can see myself having to go back to Elite again and get them to tune it, but I need to buy an XCAL 3 before I can do that, so may be some time!

Elite Auto found my problem - spark plugs weren't gapped out properly. They re-gapped them, went for a drive, problem fixed. First time they've seen it caused by this, normally its the coil-packs or the leads! They said its not normally an ABS issue.

My problem was my spark plugs weren't gapped properly - Elite Auto said they've never seen it before, but they were way out - regapped them, went for a drive, problem fixed!

Nah no tow bar mate, but I have an aftermarket head unit installed. However, this was installed a long time ago and the problem has only just come up now!

Not being smart, but did you see the two topics below yours? Two of us have almost the exact same problem right now, the only difference is our lights come on under load, not constantly - so possibly what ever is wrong with our cars is on its way out, and what ever is wrong with your car, is totally out. My car goes into a workshop Monday to hopefully get fixed. Toxic07 - Mine - Wheres this Youtube video? Cuz I'd love to try it!

That is also the same info I've been told... faulty PCM and ECM (I think that's it). Mine also brings up loads of fault codes, even silly ones like the rear heater lines not working or the seat electrics being faulty. Mine also has a 'miss-communication' between the speed sensors and the ECU - have been told that because our cars run on a 'closed loop' wiring circuit, if a wire is cut or a plug left unplugged or even a bent pin, and it cant complete the loop, this will happen. But then you've gotta track down which wire/plug is doing it, cuz fault checking wont tell you! Then to top it off, I've done the same as you, gone to ford and been told the same thing, costly to find (could come down to a re-wire of the car). Got my car booked in with my mechanic next Wednesday before it goes to Elite Auto and he's going to do one final check over it, make sure there is nothing amiss, check the ECU and the ABS stuff, check plugs etc etc. Can I ask, did this just start happening for you? Or was it after some work was done? Or even a service?

Double post, damn pc

Does sound like it could be something to do with that ABS sensor, I might have to check mine out, wonder if I can swap the module with another car and test it? Might look into that. I've given up on mine lol I spent $400 to earth the car/battery properly and that didnt fix it, so I doubt yours will be an earth issue either. I'll know more on the 15th/16th so I'll come back and update then, if one of us doesn't fix it before then!

OMG haha this is EXACTLY the same problem that my car is having, right down to the T, the same lights and the speedo dying. Have a read of my thread: when you get bored. It has a few peoples ideas on what might be causing it. My car goes to Elite Auto Aug 15th so hopefully I will know the problem, and if I do I will PM you with the result. If you get a result please please please PM me, mine is driving me insane - mine does it now under even just a little bit of boost.

This is my first thread posted, when we were learning about some of the fault codes: This is the next thread with the fault codes and some more data: As you read this threads, all the info/jargen I'm talking, is the information given to me from my mechanic or from ChipTorque to my mechanic.

Come on now... This is exactly what I did. Well, it was the next day due to my work commitments. When I took the car back the next day, that's when the "Yeah he knew it had an issue in mid range" was said. My mechanic chased up a few things which ended up being no good. It then went to another mechanic that my mechanic knows, he was able to show me heaps of fault codes, but couldn't fix it. I've spent over a month (and $1500) since getting the car back trying to fix it, going from various mechanics and even to Ford, and as said, it was my understanding that ChipTorque knew the car was doing what it was doing but they couldn't fix it/work out what was causing the problem.

How? The very second I drove the car out of the workshop and put my foot down, the dash light up, then it coughed and spluttered. Since then, its doing it consistantly every time, and now the cough and splutter is surging and rocking back and forth. How did this not happen on your dyno? Or how did it go unnoticed? Not hard to jump in the car and come for a drive, damn thing does it EVERY TIME. The battery is swapped to the other side, but it has since been wired in properly, strapped down, extra earth etc etc - another $400 down the drain to try fix the problem. A ford mechanic had a look at it, did some diagnostics and checks, all looked to be ok from what he was able to check at the time (granted he didnt go right over it with a fine toothed comb). Yes its an ex cop car, but I had none of these problems prior to the engine being replace / retune. I'd have sent the car back down to you, had I thought you wanted to look at it - the feeling I got was "It has problems, oh well" - and maybe that's not your fault and there's been a communication break down, but whats done is done. The quick run down of all this is, that the very second I got the car back, it was nothing like it should be. It only made 280kw, when the last time it was down there (with a sick half dead f*cked motor mind you) it made 310kw. It instantly ran like crap, the very first drive when I picked the car up, the dash light up and it coughed and spluttered - I dont understand how you missed this OR why the car was given back to me in such a poor state. As I've said, if Elite find a wiring problem and that was the case then fine, I'll just be glad someone actually found it. If its tune related then you'll hear from me.

Here's hoping - I'm starting to hear more and more good things about them. I just want my damn car back to how it used to be! Might as well drive a bloody barina :(

f*ck that sounds nuts! I see the ute had its tail gate off/down - will actually make him run slower, could shave a few seconds with the tail gate back on

I don't know what more of the story there would be to tell! The car has 100's of problems that neither my mechanic OR ChipTorque can sort out, what else do I do? The car has a dead spot in mid-range that Lauchlan knew about before sending the car back to my mechanic - now this is just my opinion here, but if he knew the car had problems, why was it given back to me? Or if he couldn't sort it and it left with a poor tune, why did I get charged $700? All of the above mentioned suspected issues sound good, and hey if it is a bent pin or a f*cked plug then good, it wasn't ChipTorque that f*cked my car and I'll look back on my mechanic - but the facts are as simple as this: 1. Car runs like a bucket of sh*t 2. Has a dead spot in mid range 3. The dead spot in mid range is now like hitting a brick wall, wont rev over about 3500rpm and sounds like the exhaust is farting 4. Dash lights come on under boost (they actually seem to flick on when the tune coughs) Heres hoping I'll know who to blame after Elite has a look at it - it may be something minor that no one could have picked up and if that's the case then no one is to blame, but as said, there are the facts, what more can I say?

Thanks guys, got a good recommendation to go see Elite, so I gave them a call, they were great! Helpful and friendly and even has a few ideas on what may be causing it - booked in for 15th August so see how we go, fingers crossed!!