mrmackie

How do you get 300+KW down on a FWD car?

No. Had fuel pump installed and my wastegate ported with flapper mod at 25k. Been driving it around for 50K on a stock tune and had no problems what so ever

Dont stress too much about driving it around untuned after your mods. I put in a 100CPI Ballistic, new cooler and 4" intake and drove it constantly for 3 weeks without a problem before I could make it to the tuner. JUST DONT HIT BOOST, which is easier said than done, but if you have a boost gauge and some self control it is possible. Too many people treat the motor as if its made from egg shells and are scared to drive the car anywhere. Just be careful with it and youll be able to drive it around without a problem, just dont flog it as that's when youll get problems

http://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=37802

Ohh Rhealy!? Thanks for the update Mal! lol just kidding, hope its going well for you mate and look forward to seeing how your beast runs

Short of trying to get a torque rench in there, a firm nip up should be fine. Make sure you have sanded the copper washers with some fine wet-n-dry on a FLAT SURFACE (Glass is the best for this). I also found doing this to the 2 aluminum washers on the filter help it to seal as mine leaked on both ends of the filter, even though I thought I tightened it up properly.

Flushing a trani is as easy as this: Remove exit hose from train at trani cooler I.e. the tempreature transfer cooler mounter on the side of the block. If unsure which line is which, remove both and place a clear hose on each then place the clear hoses in a bucket with measurement marks on the bucket. Run the engine until bubbles show up in the clear hose, then turn off and add same amount of fluid measured in bucket into the trani. Then run again. Keep doing this process until you are happy with the colour of the fluid. Then put hoses back on trani cooler. Im not saying for anyone to do this, but it is basically what a trani flush is all about, alot less complicated and mysterious that what we are led to believe

Thanks Guys! Sounds all too easy

Im looking to fit a 12pnd actuator before babying the car to the tuners for a tune, but want to know if there is a trick to setting the actuator arm up, as it has an adjustable rod. Is it a matter of matching the length with the old actuator and arm I take out for correct throw length, or can you only get a correct setup of this arm when its installed so you can feel the resistance on the diaphram?

Have you guys checked out this writeup on a Bypass kit/cooler for the ZF trani? Sounds like it could be what your after. There is also one for sale in the classifieds

Cumon!!, its been 6 days already and im waiting for your install guide!, lol just kiding mate, look forward to seeing it when you post.

You def DONT want to have the top side (Bonnet) side of any Airbox uncovered. This will allow hot air to be sucked in from the engine bay into the turb. I made a custom airbox for a SSS pulsar I had and ran a pod filter, Then tried with and without the top of the box. When I had the lid off the fuel economy was $hit! It performed much better with only the air intake from the front (Headlight) open. I did see someone with a XR6T run both front entry and under the airbox (picking up from the guard) and they said it worked quite well. They were running a panel filter.

If your doing track work the fpv brakes will be slightly better due to the larger rotor they use to help with heat distribution and presummed stiffness people mention. If your using them for street, save your coin and just stick some GOOD grippy pads on and possibly slotted rotors. People need to realise that unless you use your brakes to their full potential on the street I.e. "racing up and down Mountdandy road from Olinda to FTGully", the brakes manufacturers put on our cars these days are rated for every day driving just fine, otherwise the cars wouldnt be released to the public. My friend has AP's on his ride and they pull up mint, but he needs to get heat into the pads first before they start working to their full potential and daily driving doesnt realy heat them up enough. JMO

OK, I did some surfing on the intraweb and found a formula for calculating an approx temp of compressed air after the turbo. Running boost at around 14.5psi, and on a day when the outside air temp is 30deg, the compressed air temp out of the turbo but before the cooler will be around 95deg, an increase of 65deg from being compressed. This should still be ok for the BOV to handle

Thanks guys. It does make for an interesting topic of conversation. Doesnt the BOV dump excess pressure back into the intake pipe of the turbo anyway so you wouldnt have to vent it to the exhaust to keep it legal? Regarding the intake temp after it is pressurised by the turbo, without having researched this id guess its only around 60deg before the cooler. Im sure the heat under the hood would be way more than that, so the BOV should be able to handle 60deg temps going through it

Not sure if this has been asked a 1000 times before, but,...... There are alot of XR6 systems with the BOV mounted on the cold side and anywhere from being near the throttle body to close to the cooler. I read an article that recommended mounting the blow off valve on the hot side (between turbo and the hot side of cooler) or mounted on the hot side of the cooler. The reason for this is listed in a clipping of the article below: "The vast majority of people will tell you that you are supposed to place your blow off valve within a couple feet of your throttle body. I am here to tell you that this is not the best location for your blow off valve. The best location for your blow off valve is going to be in between your turbo and intercooler, on the hot side. Think about it. If you put the blow off valve on the cold side (after the intercooler), you are pushing hot air through your intercooler for nothing. This increases the speed at which your intercooler and motor become heat soaked. By putting the blow off valve before, or even on the intercooler itself - you allow all of the hot compressed air to escape to atmosphere prior to passing through the intercooler. A blow off valve does the same thing no matter where you place it on the charge piping. Knowing this - it's only logical to put it in a place where it relieves hot air rather than cold air." SO,.....Any thoughts from people WITH experience on this would be appreciated

From personal experience, I disagree. I had exactly the same probs with my STOCK BF06 T idling very rough to the point of almost stalling, especially on cold mornings, but it then disapears when the car warms up. Took it into ford approx 8 times, 6 times under warranty to try and find the problem, with them having it for a week. They replaced various small items with absolutly Sweet FA effect. I cleaned the TB, checked all piping, changed the TPS but it still didnt fix the problem. Finally bought a O2 sensor from Ebay and,........................it solved my problem!!!!, and also improved my fuel consumption by approx 80 extra k's per tank. For the $60 I spent on it, it has given back my faith in my Ford T.

Great write up. I might do mine after reading this

Is that an informed observation or your own? Does it detract from the operation/performance of the cooler? I havnt noticed this myself, Are you refering to the welding? Some more info would be good to back up your comment If the above is the case, then it would only make a difference to judges if you were showing your car in a competition with the bumperbar removed so you could actually see the cooler....Or if you drove around with a mirror attached to the front of your chassis, again with the bumper removed

haha, that's a great cover-up and probably one of the best ive seen!! top marks there mitch911

Ummm, im not sure how to put this, but the fkn problem is back! Mainly happens when the car is cold. Its noticable at night as my lights dim realy badly in reaction to the rough idle/running of the engine, then come good again. Im guessing there is a spark issue, which in turn is not allowing the motor to ignite properly, but im not fully certain. It is back at ford for the 7th time, and awiating thier 'professional' (ha) diagnosis, although they tell me they cant find anything wrong with it and the ecu hasnt recorded anything of use. Im so glad im just out of warranty, not!

XXX ^^Epic Fail^^ After not seeing the problem since this post, it wasnt just the batt. Had the same problem AGAIN and even worse this morning. Shocking idle probs and rough take off. Then ATLAST, the engine light pops up and stayed on. Drove straight to dealer and turned out to be the Fuel pressure regulator. Hope this helps anyone else with a similar prob

Thanks guys for the reply's. Im using Nulon 10/40 full synth, and have done since 10K (Now at 45K). The oem temp gauge was getting close to the middle marker (12 oclock), so the temp was definately getting up there. The oil when cold at idle sits around 60psi

The other night I was stuck in bumper to bumper traffic trying to get through the city. It took me approx 45 minutes to travel 1km. During this time I noticed my oil pressure gauge drop very low, (about 10psi) to the point the light on the gauge started flashing. I would then be able to move the car a car length, the gauge moved upwards (to approx 25psi), but then dropped back down to 10 when I had to stop. When I managed to get through the city to my destination and actually get over 5kph, the gauge moved up around 35psi, but it wasnt until the next day that things got back to normal. It has come good now, but it concerned me why it acctually happened. Note though the idiot light on my dash DID NOT come up. I have checked the oil level and its all ok. My gauges are cheapy ebay units, so im wondering if the oil pressure is a bit of a dud. I have also checked the leads to the sender unit and gauge and they are all connected fine. Has anyone had a similar experience in heavy stop-start traffic? I have no mods (yet) apart from airfilter. My oil sender for the gauge is mounted on a sandwich plate that goes between the oil filter and the block. (Didnt like the idea of hanging more stuff off the oem sender pipe) Havnt seen any leaks from under the car.

Had the same problem, I would stop at a set of lights and the idle would go way low and be realy rough plus my lights would occasionaly flicker at idle aswell. Turned out to be the battery. Had a H/duty battery fitted and it was all good.