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Everything posted by Phooned
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The coils are on the top of the motor (not on the side like the XH/EA-AU). You just need to get the crossover and coil cover off. The hardest part of changing the plugs/coils is getting to the screw right at the back of the motor (on the coil cover). No need to rip off the heat shield, unless you plan to retorque the manifold bolts...Cheers, AJ.
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Starughsberry, have you tested out the weapon x ones yet (you said you were going to use it in your new build). Also, have you tried what I have asked above ^^^ (if it is possible of course)...
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Just a quick question for you guys. Apparently Ford made some changes to the coils and coil covers with the FG *LINK*. How difficult would it be to fit these "upgraded" parts to a BA/F? Has anyone gone down this path?
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Hey Trevs, that's the plan...
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Thanks Pat. I will call you soon, re:diff bush...want to book the car in before ordering the bush!
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Hey guys, I got a BA sedan..IRS..what a PITA Anyway, I am looking at putting a set of 3.73:1 diff gears into it. I currently sourced a diff from a wrecked car that mounted the gutter sideways. This has obviously rendered the diff pretty much useless. Everything seems intact and the LSD + ratio gears etc seems to be in good order with no chips on the gears etc. My question is, what should I be paying to get the ratios swapped over drive in drive out? Is $650 a good price? Let me know! Cheers, AJ
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Hey, This sounds very much like an ABS sensor issue. I had mine come up a few times before the sensor was replaced. It gave me the sh!ts. Took it to Fraud and they plugged in their computer, took it for a drive around the car park doing some 8's and found a faulty LHS ABS sensor. I tried cleaning the sensors, when the problem first started, but it did not solve anything. Also like GNU UP has said, first try to remove the bits with a nose plyer first and if that fails, take your car to your local auto elec, will be heaps cheaper than Fraud. Hope this helps. Cheers, AJ
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Hi guys, I am currently looking for new gauges for my car. I came across a brand called Auto Platonium. Their gauges looks similar to the ozegauges(sp?) and are not too badly priced for gauges with stepper motors (and yes the needle of the gauge does a full sweep like the Defi gauges when turned on!! ). The gauge comes with a control/distribution box to keep wiring neat and can be used to power up to 4 gauges. I was just wondering if any of you guys have had any experience with this brand. I have done a search and have been unable to find anything. Cheers, AJ PS: Images courtesy of ebay /
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If you want to use the wiring from your mobile phone connector, here are the wires you need: Black = Ground Black with Yellow trace = Accessories Yellow = Constant 12v Green = mute - Not used for aftermarket head unit The mobile phone connector is a female type with 4 pins from memory. Cheers, AJ
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What did you guys do about the hole where the factory cold air snorkel meets the airbox? If this isn't covered, wouldn't the box just be pulling in hot air from the engine bay?? ...oh and yes, I know this thread is more than a year old!!
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Group Buy: CCFL Angel Eyes - Less than $50 plus postage
Phooned replied to GR8XR6's topic in Classifieds & Group Buys
GR8XR6...any chance of getting this fitted at all? -
Group Buy: CCFL Angel Eyes - Less than $50 plus postage
Phooned replied to GR8XR6's topic in Classifieds & Group Buys
[quote name='MiKa' date='23 October 2009 - 05:52 PM' timestamp='1256284357' post='946317'] Im in too if theres any chance of fitting them too? For a cost of course... [/quote] +1 -
Hey Chris, How long is this GB for and does the plenum come with a wiring kit? I currently have a Nizpro cooler, so what would it cost for piping? Thanks, AJ
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The bottom hose is the hot side piping and connects up to the bottom of the turbo. The pipe that comes off the top of the intercooler, connects up to the throttle body. The hose that goes to the front of the turbo is the intake piping and runs to the airbox.
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...and what the ebay ad doesn't tell you...lol...
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New order - Slow jam Damn pointless ads...I guess our cars are fairly common now and capable of putting out big power without doing much...that guy in the ad needs a good but...they should have used a Expensive Daewoo for the ad I say!
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+1..don't do it..
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I have changed blocks and vicroads/insurance did not have an issue. Vicroads got one of their engineers to come and take a look at the car. They updated the new engine details, once it was confirmed that no new parts were fabricated to fit the new block.
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yes mate,I did. It was no good..the bolts just wouldn't line up!!
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G'Day guys, I ended up picking up the diff (with the cradle, axles etc) that I asked about in this thread. I finally got around to swapping the IRS cradles over (what a PITA!)... HOWEVER, the tail shaft I purchased from the wreckers off an auto XR6T, refuses to bolt up. The CV that attaches the tail shaft to the diff is too small it seems (the bolts just wont line up). Therefore, assuming this diff is out of a manual, what are my options: a)Can I just swap over/buy CV's from a manual tail shaft? Will it bolt on to the auto tail shaft? b)Will an XR8/GT auto tail shaft bolt up or are the the same as the turbos? c)If none of the above work, what are my options? In hindsight I should have tried attaching the tailshaft to the diff first, before removing the old cradle. Oh well! I have a 4 speed auto btw. Cheers, AJ
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