gu4800

Shame a I missed it. I'll be along to the next one. I did come down to the meeting point to say hello - I have the Ego BF. Ordered my Process West Stage 2 today (off with the F6 Cooler - which will be for sale shortly), and ordering my X-Force system Monday (off with the hiflow cat + stock system - this will also be for sale shortly). Have everything else - injectors, pump and CAI. Re-tune and I'm done. Look forward to the next one. I followed up to Albany Creek and then departed for home (other duties). Cheers Dan

Just bought a set from Byrne Ford - $60.

Process West are site sponsors and have there own section: http://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/index.php?showforum=146 Start there - plenty of threads on the Stage I and Stage II packages, with some people quoting numbers and some good pics. Cheers Dan

F6 is electric, and as such has a sender unit in the engine bay (I believe it is on the intercooler). That way, it only has an electrical signal running into the cabin (hence, via a harness). When plumbing to BOV as you describe (like most of us), you are running a mechanical gauge. Mechanical means you are actually tapping in a vacuum line and running it into your cabin. As to actually plumbing for accuracy, someone else is best suited to answering that question. The BOV plumbing is quick and easy. Hope this makes sense. Cheers Dan

Well, I had some running issues (nothing major) so I thought I would pull the pump and make sure the fuel line was good, etc. I did use Gates, and it was no surprise to see it in as good condition as when it went in (go the Gates!). BUT, what I did notice is that when I put it back the whine has gone! What I think has happened is when it was installed the first time the pump itself must not have been sitting quite right and may have be vibrating against the side of the pot, causing the whine to basically resonate. When I have put it back it it must be sitting just right - quiet as a mouse. Me = very happy! Cheers Dan

The Bf MkII's now come standard with 18's, premo sound and a few other bits. BUT, there will be a few around that are sitting in dealers or in holding yards that won't have those goodies as standard yet. I would expect: XR6T with leather around $41-42K (in auto) Typhoon with leather and Dark Argent wheels - around $54,500 Both of those are drive away. For a BF MkII without leather, around $40K. Dan

Just wondering of those people that have the GSS-341 Walbro - how loud is yours?? Mine is very loud - can't hear it when driving, but when stationery or outside the car you can hear the whine a mile away. What are others like? Dan

I gather that is NOT the cooler they make for the XR6T? Dan

Those two things alone will get you off. "I estimate" "I think" "you looked like" All BS. The only way they are allowed to book you without a radar is if they follow you from behind for a set distance and they averaged your speed (as far as I know). Estimating the speed of an ONCOMING car is near on impossible, even more so at NIGHT. I wouldn't even bother going to court - write a letter today and send it off the traffic branch or whoever they tell you to write to. Furthermore, if they wish to persist with this matter further then inform that you will be putting this "human radar" to the test. They tried it on my brother a few years ago - copper used such as "I estimate your speed" and my brother wrote letter advising that since when is an "estimate" acceptable practice. The ticket was canceled following that letter alone. No other action required. Dan. EDIT: Your location?

Not easy but not hard - you just have to have the right gear handy. Some points: 1) Avoid soldering or crimping the wires to join the Ford loom into the new Walbro plug. Simply cut the existing wires as close as possible to the old Ford plug (the end that plugs inot the pump), remove the wires from the new Walbro loom and put new connectors onto the Ford harness. Simply insert the new connectors into the Walbro plug. The Walbro connectros are standard Narva connectors. Put simply - change the plug on the existing Ford loom to Ford one end and Walbro the other! 2) You MUST MUST MUST MUST have Gates submersible fuel hose ($30 trade price from Repco) at the ready. A little bit of trial and error witht he correct length of fuel hose and that's about it. If you want more of a technical write up let me know. One last thing - sedan = easy, ute = hard (apparently you have to drop the tank in the ute - sedan is under back seat). Dan

Post an ad on ebay! I guy down in Sydney or Melbourne did it a year or so ago when someone broke into his work premises and stole a laptop. He got a pic of him on security footage, and was not overly happy with the time it was taking the police to action. Can't remember exact details, but he posted an ad on ebay "selling" the exploits and complete history of the events including all email correspondence, etc, etc, etc. Of course the ad and sale were just an easy way to advertise the offenders description and get a wider reach than just a few websites. The guy was some computer geek who could track the IP of the laptop everytime it was used (or something like that) and he had some info on the offender. Long story short, the actual offender ended contacting him and offered the return of the laptop in exchange for the removal of the ad from ebay. EDIT: I found the old ebay links, but they are long since deleted (happened late 2005). Just an idea. Dan

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Paying cash - meaning, I go in and if I want the car I buy it. No "I need this for my trade to make it work" or "I have to sell my car first". I make it very clear - I am there to buy a car! Never forget, made an offer on an F6 when I was looking at my T. He came back about an hour later and said "you are a few grand off, can you come up a little" Said "no, the offer is fair in the current market". He said "probably won't happen, but I'll come back to you". 4 days later he came back with "have you thought about it?", to which I replied "yes, and I bought an XR6T yesterday afternoon". And yes, I was serious about the F6. I am a "value" type of guy, not a lowest possible price type of buyer. Meaning, if I was buying lunch and could a Peanut Butter sandwich for $4.00 or a Roast Beef sandwich with a drink for $7.00, then I'll spend the $7.00 because it is good value. I wanted a Falcon based Turbo - XR6T or F6, whatever offered me value (an F6 at the right price is value - at RRP it is not). Dan

Either way you look at, forget "trade value" and look at actual change over - that will give you the best idea. Some points to note: - Ford will usually discount a fair bit of RRP - Subaru generally doesn't discount their cars - Use demonstrators to get a good price on a new car (most dealers will match an opposition dealers demo price on a new) My recent experiences ( I change cars ALOT!): 08/2006 Bought a new Territory - new $37,990 RWD TX, Cruise, 7 seats (RRP $43,500) 01/2007 Bought a XR6T - demo $39,500, Auto, Mats (RRP was $46,000) Getting rid of the old ones: 2004 BMW 318i on the Terri - was offered $23,500 trade on a new Nissan Murano - bought the Terri and sold the BMW privately for a lot more (stuff you Mr Nissan) 2006 Terri on the XR6T - was offered "under $30,000" trade on the XR6T - bought the XR6T and sold the Terri privately In my case, I sold the BMW for well over $10K more, but the trade in offered at Nissan was BS (I guess they didn't want the car - only had 50,000 klm's on it too). The Terri I also sold for well above the $30K offered (not really an offer, I just asked and they suggested I sell privately as they wouldn't be over $30K). NEGOTIATE THE PRICE OF THE NEW CAR WITH NO TRADE FIRST, and then introduce the trade - that way you really know what you are being offered on the trade. I pay cash for all my cars, so I guess that helps. Bought the XR6T and still had the Terri at home in the garage - but I knew the Terri would sell so I took the punt. I did wait until I had an offer on the BMW before I bought the Terri - the BMW I wasn't so confident with an easy sale. In your case, $27K sounds pretty good given the age (2005). The klm's are very low, but the age will hold it back in the trade stakes. BUT, there may be a couple of grand in the new car with NO trade, which means you're not really getting $27k for yours. Best of luck. Dan

$20 each! Bought one a few weeks ago.

I've got one of these - very happy with it. Got the Autometer Cobalt gauge to put in it. Easy install. Dan

Howdy, How on earth to do remove the rear section of a BF XR6T exhaust? Had everything undone, but could not for the life of me get it over the diff? It was getting caught on the heatsheild (the one attached to the car), but it seemed a bit more than that. Do you have to drop the entire rear subassembly or something? There must be some trick? Thanks Dan

That can be edited out I believe (although I had mine done last week and the "Check Engine" came on after 24 hours - I assume it was the new cat). If you have a BF and are NOT going to edit, then forget about a new cat - you will have to stick with stock cat. Dan

Damn, how "unfortunate" that you took a gob full of water during Friday nights storm. Looks like your engine hydroliced itself. GOOD THING YOU HAVE INSURANCE TO COVER THIS!!!!!!!!! Nudge, nudge, wink, wink - say no more ............. Most insurance companies will cover this type of damage provided you were driving on a road that is normally traversed by regular traffic - which by the sounds of it you were. I personally know of two cases - an SS Late model camira of a friend (about 8 years ago) that crossed a road during a storm and a 4WD of a friend of mine who crossed a washout (he was covered as it was classed as a "road" and the washout is normally dry). Both hydroliced - the SS because he had a lower snorkel in the front air dam, and the 4WD as the water was a little higher than he thought (and funnily enough he didn't have a snorkel). Dan

This would be the same certain Ford dealer at Indooroopilly that I bought my XR6T off. It was a demo with just under 4,000 on the clock. My assessment of their "service": 1) Asked if the 3,000 check had been done as the book was not stamped - "yeah, course it has" was the answer. After I picked the car up, shot over the road and asked the service gut to stamp the book for the 3,000 check - one problem, NOT DONE! So make an appointment to come back at my inconvenience to have it done, when in reallity I would have delayed picking the car up for 1 day to have it done before delivery. 2) Now onto that service. I asked if it could be done while I waited and that was no problem. An hour later, "shes right to go mate". Examined the car not 1 week later at a mates workshop and noticed an engine oil leak (bad enough to be dripping on my garage floor) and all 4 tyres had about 22 PSI in them. Yeah right, "free check up". So I decided to get the oil leak fixed elsewhere - won't name them. Four trips, yes FOUR, to get the oil leak fixed - 3 times for the oil leak and the last time to bring it back because some peanut overtightened a hose clamp causing coolant to piss out of one of the small hoses. Oh, and they scratched the leather on my wheel the first time so I asked for (and got) a brand new leather wheel. Overall, FORD service is CRAPOLA!!!!!! NOTE: Except Metro, my Territory had an awful shudder (common problem in RWD Series 2 after they swapped the cross member) and that was fixed almost straight away and better still, diagnosed by the service manager within 10 seconds of me bringing it in to be looked at. I had no problem in modifying my XR6T and loosing the warranty on the drivetrain because the warranty aint worth sh*te if the service is crap and they can't fix sh*te anyway (case in point being the original post in this thread). Dan

Either way, you MUST tell your insurance company and lodge the claim. Tell them exactly what happended, the fact that he admitted fault, etc, etc. You may pay an excess today, but your insurance company refunds it once they get it off the other driver or his insurance company. Think of this: 1) He doesn't tell his insurance company straight away, and you could be waiting forever to get your car fixed 2) He changes his story when dealing with the insurance company and all of a sudden YOU are at fault - afterall, YOU have the front end damage. Lodge your claim, tell them what happened, pay the dump and you'll have your car back in a matter of 1-2 weeks. Then, after they investigate, you get your coin back. That counts as one NOT AT FAULT claim which doesn't really mean much - like hail damage, not your fault. Your premium shouldn't increase, and the worst that can happen is they hold your rating for 1 year. Just remember, most insurance companies ask for claim history, but most importantly they are looking for "AT FAULT" claim history. I've had to do it twice in the last 6-7 years and I've been rating 1 for longer than that - didn't effect my history at all. Dan

1) Not needed - spend your money elsewhere 2) Boost - I've got mechanical, easier to install (no sender unit to worry about). I would guess a full electric would be more accurate 3) Oil - Definitely electric, you don't want oil lines running into your cab 4) AFR - don't like the look of digital AFR, which is the only one to et if you actually want to read it. If you do go 3 gauge, get the "tripod" from Pole Position - best on the market by a long long way. Check the sponsor section. Dan

Would be cheaper to buy the Territory Turbo! Dan

No chance with the injectors. I did mine last week (or the week before, can't remember), and it wouldn't even idle. Far too much fuel. Dan

You will probably find the one's that look "hot" (and I'm a fan of black wheels on most cars), have a chrome dish of some description. The factory XR 18's won't allow for that, and I think all black will look crap - no offense. Gotta have a dish to get away with it. Save your dollars and do it properly by buying a set of black 18" wheels with a dish. Besides, a decent paint job would cost near the same as a decent set of second hand wheels. Dan