I thought I’d do a bit of bragging about the improvements I’ve just completed.

I’m now getting 279.4 rwkw, shootout mode.

Let me retrace my modification history:

1st: stock achieved 170 rwkw on a MDX dyno.

2nd: removed centre muffler achieving 184 rwkw on the MDX dyno.

3rd: dyno run at the C&V – APS dyno day, no additional mods, achieved 206.1 rwkw on a Dyno Dynamics dynamometer in shootout mode. (ie. 184 rwkw MDX equals 206 rwkw shootout).

4th: homemade cold air intake using XR8 under headlight duct & XR6T air box, achieving 223 rwkw on a Dyno Dynamics dynamometer in shootout mode.

5th: Chiptorque Xede processor & K&N filter, achieving 279.4 rwkw on a Dyno Dynamics dynamometer in shootout mode.

And that’s it for me with the modifications. To go any further requires new injectors, fuel pump, exhaust, etc etc. All my mods to date are stealth – nothing too obvious. The Xede and wiring is well hidden or blends in, the cold air intake looks completely factory (uses XR8 part) and blends in with the rest of the under bonnet hardware, & centre muffler is, well, not normally visible!

The centre muffler removal resulted in what use to be quite loud and noticeable at idle, particularly at cold idle. Since the Xede installation, the cold idle and warmed-up idle exhaust sound is now comparable to standard exhaust system. But I still get that glorious sound under acceleration & the lovely burble whilst decelerating.

Sorry about blowing my own trumpet, but I had to tell somebody! Particularly those who might just be interested! My wife just looks at me with a vacant and uninterested expression, and says what do I need all that power for anyways?!?!

:D

Keep blowing it's what were here for.

How much have the different mod's cost you so far??

To go any further requires new injectors, fuel pump, exhaust, etc etc

hi mate ... I've been there too, but pulled back to about 240rwkw

good mods and good figures ... but I reckon you might be running on the edge... injectors/pump/zorst are really important for reliability and maintainability, without them at the level you are now is dicey for a prelonged period of time :(

think about only keeping the power up to her for short periods of time 5sec-10secs but no longer ....

just a word of friendly advice ... the modded T's are awesome

cheers

Rob

Good stuff 56, I am certainly interested in how much power you have and how you achieved it!

Just keep a close eye on things, and everything should be sweet. Keep us posted for any future mods if they happen!

Good numbers!

Did you install the XR8 intake yourself?

All up costs?

GREAT Result's would like to know the cost of the chiptorqe what boost you are running and who done it as I live in sydney

Wow, very nice mainline. I have very similar mods except for the chip. What costs are involved with the chip and what sort of boost are you running atm?

BLKXRT, would you know what costs are involved with bigger injectors. The actual injector cost and then the fitting cost please?

Thanks guys. B)

well done 56 mainline,

I am also lining up for some of this, I'll bet you're grinning like the cat that ate the budgy.

Scotty

Great figures 56mainline . I have done the same sort of mods but still havent done the chip , have been trying to decide between exede and unichip . What did the exede cost you ? and was it just there Stage 1 ? Thanks for al the info this forum is great

Firstly....

Did you install the XR8 intake yourself?

All up costs?

Yes, installed myself. Several have asked about the cost & install, so here it is....

Required 1x XR8 under headlight duct, described by Ford as "Tube Air Clnr Intake", Part Number BAT9C676A, Cost $55 incl GST.

This component has a flange on it so that it gives a good seal & connection to the XR8 air cleaner cannister (barrel shaped thing). I cut this flange off with a Stanley knife!

I obtained the following item from the plumbing section of a large hardware store: Plumb-quik rubber joiner 100mm long x 100mm dia (part no 1056-44), cost $18.92. It comes complete with quality hose clamps at each end (I didn't use them). The hose clamps sit in recesses in the rubber. One of these recesses is used to seal a hole cut into the side of the standard XR6T airbox, the hole dimensions determined by the diameter of the recess (approx 94mm diameter).

Now, the XR8 under headlight duct has the end cut off it, pushed into one end of the rubber joiner. As the duct is oval in shape, it causes the rubber joiner to become oval in shape. It is a very tight fit, and there is no need for any other means of fixing the two together.

This assembly is then positioned (forced!) under the headlight. To do this the whole airbox needs to be removed (easy job, held in place by 3 bolts).

Now a hole is cut in the side wall of the airbox to suit the 94mmm diameter rubber joiner recess. I cut an oval shaped hole to better suit the shape of the joiner with the XR8 duct fully inserted into it. Tidy up the hole with a file.

The airbox is then repositioned, the airbox front retaining bolt fitted, and the rubber joiner plumbed into the hole, so that the recess sits in the airbox plastic wall.

Fit the remaining two airbox retaining bolts, the air filter, & lid.

You're then done! Total cost $73.92. And it looks completely factory. All in black rubber.