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josh883

09 G6Et Dual Zone Climate Control Problem

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Could anyone tell me if there is a common problem with the fg dual zone climate control system?

At the moment mine is playing up. When I set both sides to hot on the display the passenger side stays cool no matter what temperature I put both sides to.

Any help would be appreciated.

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This happens to mine every now and then so I suffer it out till I get home and when I start the car the next day, everything works fine.

I just put it down to being 'a Ford' :)

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Touch wood never had an issue with mine.

Have you done the disconnect the battery trick? In most cases this fixes everything.

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Disconnecting the battery is a good option. But if the battery is getting a bit old it will only temporarily solve the problem.

I found this when out when I used Forscan (Android Beta) to reset the 2 A/C fault codes, one HIM and another one I can't remember. I also had a faulty brake switch that kept faulting the dsc and traction control. So after resetting the A/C faults they would come back. Lived with it for a couple of weeks then dead battery one morning.

New battery in reset faults and since then no A/C fault codes and no issues with A/C. Brake switch still needed replacing so only cost $40 to fix that and reset the fault codes.

So far the ODBII wifi adapter and Forscan/Torque are the best investment I have made for the Ford.

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Where can I get one of the fault code readers?? I have herd about the old battery issue before. I just don't understand that if a battery can start your car why wouldn't it be right to operate the remaining equipment in your car???

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I have the same issue, it's not battery related. Normally if the battery is faulty the air con just won't blow cold air. There's only three things that could cause the dual zone malfunction, 1. A faultly HIM, 2. A broken rod in the duct (common) 3. Faulty temp control actuator. Best place to start is watch the vid on YouTube that demonstrates how to remove the ICC. Access the heater module behind it. Inspect the flaps and rods in the ducting, if they're all functional next I'd start with the actuator. Unfortunately it costs $290 from ford. An electrician can test it. HIMs can be resourced from wreckers.

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Foscan is available at Forscan.org

Torque is available in the play or iPhone stores. Good for monitoring cars and recording data from your trips.

You will need a ODBII adapter to plug into your diagnostics port. scantool.net sell some good options. I have heard the wifi ones are not too reliable so Bluetooth might be the best option. You can also get cheaper ones from eBay but some of those are flaky.

I didn't think the battery would cause issues either, accessories are normally powered by the running engine I thought. Anyway I had the A/C fault and HIM fault and reset them, symptoms included hot air on the feet and cold air on the face/screen. So far after getting a new larger 630cca battery in there I have had no faults with anything. The original battery was 5 years old so probably overdue a replacement.

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I'm looking at the problem being a broken rod. Can I just buy the single part from Ford spare parts? The bloke I brought the car off said this happend to him and told me not to change either side as it could happen again. I didn't listen... If it's a broken rod will I have to take the rest of the dash out? Is it the same job as the bf?

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Yep, the rods have part numbers on them, you can order them from ford parts, or cheaper on eBay. Getting to them is mildly difficult. Removing the ICC is relatively easy. Then the heater box is behind and below it.

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Josh, your mixer shaft is broken and needs to be replaced. It's a dash out job and is expensive due to the labour involved.

Have a read of this thread http://www.fordforums.com.au/showthread.php?t=11421898

It's common in the 09s and some '10s. The actualy fault is said to be in the HIM and it ends up overwinding the flap, causing the rod to break off.

If you're in Sydney, I recommend going to see MR FPV from that thread. His prices are a lot cheaper than Fords.

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I have the same issue, it's not battery related. Normally if the battery is faulty the air con just won't blow cold air. There's only three things that could cause the dual zone malfunction, 1. A faultly HIM, 2. A broken rod in the duct (common) 3. Faulty temp control actuator. Best place to start is watch the vid on YouTube that demonstrates how to remove the ICC. Access the heater module behind it. Inspect the flaps and rods in the ducting, if they're all functional next I'd start with the actuator. Unfortunately it costs $290 from ford. An electrician can test it. HIMs can be resourced from wreckers.

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I purchased My 2009 G6ET in Feb, within 2 weeks I was in for 2 warranty jobs.

1 was for the front window; wasn't happy with some chips and cracks I found. And 2 was the climate control would get stuck on Hot once selected and took a lot of fiddling to make cold again.

The heater mixer box was changed and problem solved, turns out the plastic gear mech. linked to the mixer actuator flogs out (common issue apparently).

Id say that's the sticky wicket :)

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Just to finish this off. I pulled the dash out. You have to pull the ICC out then the centre console. Once that's done pull the dash out. You can then access the heater system. I pulled this apart and replaced both flappers and rods. The flappers are a hopeless construction....just looking at them. They have a week point where the actual rod goes through as there are two types of plastic in the flapper and it is somehow plastic welded. Due to extreme cool and hot air moving through this system stuffs the rubber and plastic weld. The guy at ford nearly sold me a broken part as the weld had broken in the flapper before it even being sold to me.

If you can buy both flapper and rods off ebay its a lot cheaper and its the same part. One flapper alone is like $80 from ford.

Let me know if you need help with this job. You will have this problem eventually.

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Hmmm BA ghia blows cold passengers side only, figured the ole broken rod so pulled seats, column, dash etc and rods are fine, so are he doors in the heater unit. Friendly Ford chap suggested the HIM would have a dodgy mototr so opened the HIM, tested the motors (12v) and they are all good, so took the HIM to local wreckers, plugged it into a Fairlane ghia, powered it up and the HIM responded to all inputs from the ICC controls.... this ruled out the HIM as the problem.

Rang Ford again and service manager mentioned one of the guys (who was away that day) has a way of resetting the units which annoyed me no end considering had I known this I'd have done that first rather than pulling the dash etc. Soooo went back home and reinstalled everything back into the Ghia and reconnected the battery (disconnected to take dash out, didn't want an airbag going of or anything silly whilst mucking about with it) fired her up and what do you know, the bloody thing works again!

Well, that all went well until trying it again after fitting seats, A and B pillar covers, door rubbers etc and stuff me if the battery is now too flat to start the car (interior lights been on while refitting seats etc) soooo jump start the car, take for decent drive to charge batt and get the motor warm and..... it's blowing cold on passengers side again!!! Figured I'd try the disconnect battery trick and left it like that overnight, hooked it back up next morning and it's all good again...FFS!!

 

So, in summary, I would suggest the battery can indeed have an effect on the dualzone and trying that option first is wayyyy easier than pulling the dash etc only to find it aint the rod or door hinges.

 

Regards, someone who's done it.  

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FORScan tool would of showed you that due to a weak battery at start up you would have a plethora of initialisation codes. Even if the battery had enough juice to crank and start (will start with 9v) the car needs a full 12v for full systems initialisation routines. Retards at the dealer should of told you that.
Checking the battery with a multimeter will have also diagnosed low voltage at start up.

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On 16/06/2015 at 5:10 AM, browned said:

Disconnecting the battery is a good option. But if the battery is getting a bit old it will only temporarily solve the problem.

I found this when out when I used Forscan (Android Beta) to reset the 2 A/C fault codes, one HIM and another one I can't remember. I also had a faulty brake switch that kept faulting the dsc and traction control. So after resetting the A/C faults they would come back. Lived with it for a couple of weeks then dead battery one morning.

New battery in reset faults and since then no A/C fault codes and no issues with A/C. Brake switch still needed replacing so only cost $40 to fix that and reset the fault codes.

So far the ODBII wifi adapter and Forscan/Torque are the best investment I have made for the Ford.

What model car do you have? I have a fg and my daughter has a mk2 fg. What do I need to do all this forscan stuff mate?

 

On 17/06/2015 at 5:07 AM, browned said:

Foscan is available at Forscan.org

Torque is available in the play or iPhone stores. Good for monitoring cars and recording data from your trips.

You will need a ODBII adapter to plug into your diagnostics port. scantool.net sell some good options. I have heard the wifi ones are not too reliable so Bluetooth might be the best option. You can also get cheaper ones from eBay but some of those are flaky.

I didn't think the battery would cause issues either, accessories are normally powered by the running engine I thought. Anyway I had the A/C fault and HIM fault and reset them, symptoms included hot air on the feet and cold air on the face/screen. So far after getting a new larger 630cca battery in there I have had no faults with anything. The original battery was 5 years old so probably overdue a replacement.

Yeah mine is doing hot floor, cold face and cold on passenger side after driving 70km so it would be strange to have a low battery 

Edited by Kris limmer
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