Loose Flywheel Bolts

[a2z]

After removing the gearbox on my 2010 fg f6 at christmas and finding the six bolts half way out I thought I would just tighten them and all would be fine..... well for 4 months only.

Yesterday I heard the same knocking noise again.

Before just pulling out the gearbox I thought I'd ask around about a better fix.

Has anyone had this problem before or knows a fix?

Would a better loctite be available or more torque on the bolts or would helicoils be needed????

Any suggestions would be awesome.

[knoles]

The holes become elongated when they come loose and will keep coming loose.

When you say flywheel I assume its manual? Mostly happens to the flex plates on the autos, I've not heard of a manual having the problem. Will need a new one either way I reckon

Edited 09/04/13 12:37 PM by knoles

[a2z]

Yeah mate its manual. So basically because the holes in the fly wheel become destorted there will always be a play and no ammount of tourqe or or fitting procedure wouldl be a permanent fix?

[JETURBO]

Yup get a new flywheel and new bolts and even some H/D thread locker

[spinr33]

I'd get some ARP bolts as you can torque them more

[a2z]

What a fricken pain in arse. I dont need a new clutch yet and the gear box has to be pulled out again in as little as 4 months. Knowing my luck the clutch will have an epic fail as soon as I put the box back in.

Any sugestions as to which is a better fly wheel?

[turbotrana]

This is what I do with the auto. Same with the manual. My opinion is just not enough bolts on the crank . But the lock tabs stop the bolts undoing.

I had a Expensive Daewoo 202 that would spit the crank off. Putting an extra 4 10mm allen key headed bolts inbetween the existing bolts solved that. Then I went with an alluminium flywheel with standard bolts and never budged. I think ally helps the harmonics.

[a2z]

So my utes only got 23000km on it and only done 9k of those with 380rwkw. The fly wheel and clutch are still in great condition. Do you think I should wait on replacing the fly wheel and go with tabs until I need to replace the clutch and go a new fly wheel then?

Where can I get some tabs from?

[a2z]

Did you fabricate these yourself. The retainer looks like it sits in a machined groove in the bolt head.

[turbotrana]

I made it all myself but copied this method from "grade 8" fasteners. I used the original bolts but you need to get a machinist to cut a groove in the middle of the bolt and get the right size circlip. I think is 20mm from memory. I am quite sure I have a set of ally tabs that I could send you to try and maybe a sample circlip.

But with anything with engine building you need to have attention to detail for it to work as intended.

Alternatively you could check Grade 8 to see if there is anything they have. I have used their products before but the crank bolts they supplied were fully threaded to the head which I deemed not the best. They need to have the shank to have a tight as possible fit. You need to torque it right with a good torque wrench. I would even undo and retighten a couple of times as I feel more comfortable that whatever little stretch that is in the bolt is taken out.

I dont know if I would use locktite. I am undecided on the benefits of this as I have used it enough times and the standard bolts still came loose on my turbo 202 torana.