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  • Moar Powar Babeh
  • Lifetime Members
  • Member For: 19y 8m 27d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Perth

I cant recall if you need to remove the diff too remove the bolts. If they do foul on the Diff I would be releasing the diff outrigger 1 at a time and levering the diff up so the bolts can be removed. You can access the lower out rigger bolts from underneath and the front and upper with a loooooooooooooong extension and ratchet through the wheel arch.

You could also try using a trans jack on a hoist too lift the diff up

Is your wheel alignment guy puttings slide plates under the wheels? If they arent the tires can flex when the alignment is set and then it will wander back to its original setting.

I find it very hard too believe the adjusters are moving. Too answer your question tho, if you can remove the bolts for the rear toe arms you can replace the inner bushes and outer bearings

  • Donating Members
  • Member For: 16y 1m 21d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: CHCH NZ

Yeah he jacked it up and put turn tables under the wheels and lowered it back down, going to take it in to suspension shop once they reopen from xmas break

Yeah it was kinda odd, I watched him get it positioned on the computer screen to exactly what it should be...then once he tighted the bolt you could see the graph on the computer slowly changing back to being inbetween good and bad. He said he couldnt tighten it was the nut was semi rounded off due to the previous guy trying to keep it locked in place as it seemed to be floating.

I dont know if this would help but this is the readings for rears

Left - Actual 1.5mm - Before: 6.1mm Spec Range 0.4mm - 1.7mm

Right - Actual 0.3mm - Before: 5.4mm Spec Range 0.4mm - 1.7mm

Cross Camber - Actual -0.35deg - Before -0.45deg Spec range -0.50deg 0.50deg

Total Toe - Actual 1.8mm - Before 11.5mm Spec range 0.8mm 3.3mm

Thrust angle - Actual 0.05deg - Before 0.03deg

I doubt that will help but ill just wait till I see specialist :)

  • Moar Powar Babeh
  • Lifetime Members
  • Member For: 19y 8m 27d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Perth

11.5mm total toe? Jebus H Christ. Replace the nuts and then see if they move when torqued down properly

  • Member
  • Member For: 14y 17d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Perth NOR

Is your car lowered? Some wheel aligners will add loads of toe to counter excessive camber caused by lowering to prevent inside tyre wear. As our cars have no camber adjustment this is all that can be done without having a camber kit fitted.

The previous guy probably had to overtighten the nuts to maintain the toe adjustment and now due to not being able to be tightened it just slides back to its original position. As both sides were set pretty even(6.1&5.4mm) IMO the bushes are probably still ok. Replace the nuts so they can be torqued correctly and see what happens.

  • Moar Powar Babeh
  • Lifetime Members
  • Member For: 19y 8m 27d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Perth

Our cars have rear camber adjustment.

IMHO the amount of toe would be cause be the adjusters relaxing. The Op forgot too mention intially that the Nuts are rounded off. But im a touch confused as the 1st post mentions upper control arms adjusters which is the camber adjustment.

At the end of the day no amount of adjusment is going too make a differance if the rear toe arm bolts cant be torqued correctly

  • Donating Members
  • Member For: 16y 1m 21d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: CHCH NZ

car has been lowerd on adjustable suspension lowest point on car roughly sits 90mm up

I had it lowered a couple of months ago previous it was standard height no wheel alignment has been done on it for awhile

altho funny enough no changes had to be made to the camber...it lowered perfectly...either that or the guy doing the alignment got sh!t scared working during a magnitude 6.0 aftershock :D

Edited by FOONIN
  • Donating Members
  • Member For: 16y 1m 21d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: CHCH NZ

right picture time, just took these now...my bad if this shows different to what I said earlier - not up with suspension talk :)

post-35221-0-82523000-1325563361_thumb.j

post-35221-0-73569300-1325563397_thumb.j

  • Moar Powar Babeh
  • Lifetime Members
  • Member For: 19y 8m 27d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Perth

yes they are your toe adjusters

Rear end doesnt need too come out....

post-7403-0-77123800-1325564102_thumb.jp

post-7403-0-86965200-1325564122_thumb.jp

  • Member
  • Member For: 14y 17d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Perth NOR

Our cars have rear camber adjustment.

IMHO the amount of toe would be cause be the adjusters relaxing. The Op forgot too mention intially that the Nuts are rounded off. But im a touch confused as the 1st post mentions upper control arms adjusters which is the camber adjustment.

At the end of the day no amount of adjusment is going too make a differance if the rear toe arm bolts cant be torqued correctly

I didn't think I had any camber adjustment on the rear of my FG. I had to have a camber kit fitted to correct the excessive camber I had after lowering. I had a choice of either an eccentric adjusting bush for the upper arm inside or complete upper arm replacement for an adjustable one. Different being range of adjustment, bush corrects about 1deg and arm 2deg. I needed 0.75deg to correct the camber so had the bushes done.

  • Moar Powar Babeh
  • Lifetime Members
  • Member For: 19y 8m 27d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Perth

Fg's may be different but B-series Xr's and FPV's have an eccentric bolt on outer end of the upper control arm. Having said that I've also fitted an eccentric inner bush so the adjuster is in the centre of its adjustment with the car lowered instead of maxed out just too get the min camber spec.

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