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Have I Done My Bottom End?

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#21

I know you have 300+ with 215 wide rear tyres. If you drive it on boost I'm sure you will fry second reguarly which leads to over revving and ultimately broken oil pump gears. Give F6UTE a yell he's experienced at breaking oil pump gears and could explain the situation better.

Edited by IH8TOADS

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#22

im surprised that it would of broken the oil pump gears unless your banging off big numbers regularly. my tuner bumped my rev limiter up to 7000 because the box wasnt changing quick enough in the first couple of gears in perf mode when im sticking the boot in & ive bounced accidently off that higher number a few times. guess I'll have to really watch what im doin especially when it breaks traction & climbs through the revs at a real rate of knots.

hope its not to bank breaking for ya mate nothing worse than the unexpected!!!

#23

7000 RPM? fark me dead that's just a little high dont you think!

it is pretty pointless even getting up to 6000 rpm with these motors and if you are frequently hitting the rev limiter then maybe you should try changing gears earlier... if the gearbox is "slow" then aim your shifts earlier so you factor in the speed at wich the gearbox shifts gears.

oil pump gears seem to go more frequently in manuals then they do auto's I have only heard of maybe one or two autos who have had an oil pump let go but have heard of plenty of manuals letting go... so revs alone does not seem to be the key to a oil pumps life span

#24

It's more common in manuals because when they are over revved, then the clutch engaged, there is no pressure on the gears so they rattle/bounce around in the casing. Auto's don't come off boost through gear changes so there is constant pressure keeping the gears where they should be...

#25

Deans right - the oil pumps fail because of the shock they recieve from hitting the limiter - a soft cut limiter is much safer for them, but they are still quite weak

#26

senna, by the sounds of it from what he is saying (and what I allready believed to be the case) it doesnt have to "hit the limiter" simply being up in the higher limits of the rpm range could surely be enough to snap a pump gear when you clutch in, shut the throttle, clutch out, smash the throttle you are effectively creating the very same situation of going from full load to free spin and back to full load again.

#27

True but they would've (should've) been designed to take such abuse so long as you don't go bouncing off the limiter. After extended periods of time with hard shifting at high rpm's it may create a problem but the stock gears seem to be holding up fairly well when you take into account all the heavily modded manuals not running aftermarket gearsets.

#28
7000 RPM? fark me dead that's just a little high dont you think!

it is pretty pointless even getting up to 6000 rpm with these motors and if you are frequently hitting the rev limiter then maybe you should try changing gears earlier... if the gearbox is "slow" then aim your shifts earlier so you factor in the speed at wich the gearbox shifts gears.

oil pump gears seem to go more frequently in manuals then they do auto's I have only heard of maybe one or two autos who have had an oil pump let go but have heard of plenty of manuals letting go... so revs alone does not seem to be the key to a oil pumps life span

my tuner took me for a run after we retuned it a couple of weeks ago & in perf auto (not manual mode) it was bouncing off the limiter before the box had a chance to change gears. the tunes mainly for racin but its actually better on fuel than my 11psi tune around 290rwkw so I use it more often than not. the prob was if I was to just use the auto mode down the track it would be useless as it was set because it was bouncin off it & cuttin out. the point wasnt to make it so I could revs its guts out because as you said theres not much use goin near 6000rpm but so it was still usable if I wanted to use the auto mode. funny statement he made though when we pulled up in the workshop was after tellin the other boys what it was doin & asking exactly what the limiter was set at was if 6 is good 7 must be better (jokin of coarse.)

#29
senna, by the sounds of it from what he is saying (and what I allready believed to be the case) it doesnt have to "hit the limiter" simply being up in the higher limits of the rpm range could surely be enough to snap a pump gear when you clutch in, shut the throttle, clutch out, smash the throttle you are effectively creating the very same situation of going from full load to free spin and back to full load again.

Nick... Mine has been going strong for a long time manual too , the real thing that actually smashes pump gears is oil operating temp and viscosity at cold temps

A respected engine builder has shown me and explained why this happens. its been proved by a few incidents ive seen to too!

I bet you talk to some of the guys that have smashed theirs it will be near start-up and high in the rev range during that first 10 min..

The gauge I look at quite regularly is oil temp, forget the water temp gauge , it gets up pretty quick compared to the oil temp the thicker it is the harder to pump

The oil temps need to get at least 10 to 15 min of normal driving under boost ...I got an oil cooler so I takes a bit longer on colder days !

qik1 ... 7 grand that's some big revs for this engine bud ... I think BCL's car would be one of the only that would spin at this RPM safley (just) with his custom Crank if your tuner has told you its the only fix for your shifts, You should probably be looking for another opinion.

DRTYBOOST it sounds like a pump if you shut it down fast enough, there should be very minimal or no damage , change the pump and and get some Billet gears for it , but if you are going that far you might consider a freshen up.. rods bearings and rings! hope it works out either way mate :nod:

pete

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