Severe Symptoms

[KAZ68U]

Hey fellas,

Recently the t ran out of factory warranty and had been playing up for a while.

On inspection checked the turbo and the front wheel was bent on 4/6 fins (OUCH) so we did the right thing and didnt boost it drove it home and back in the shed.

Took it all apart LOL nothing was tight at all which was no suprise so I also thought that there would have hindered performance on its own let alone the state of the turbo.

Replaced the turbo and everything tight new clamps and gaskets blah blah, have just taken it for a run and its alot better ie off boost performance so I came home let it sit and then took it back out and got it to operating temp and tried to boost it up and it breaks up very badly when its just about to bolt away.

This was on edit tune 10 psi so I put it back to factory but I get the feeling that aint gonna make a pinch of difference to this prob which seems to be just boost related.

Car also stalled once out of the 2 times it happened whilst trying to boost hah an engine light was lite up on the dash.

I aaume its something minor and would have happened to somebody out there before no doubt so any help on this would be greatly appreciated

Thqanks in advance

[KAZ68U]

im starting to think its one of the coils! or possibly map sensor or boost module related

any ideas?

[Ralph Wiggum]

Spark plugs??? did you check them after your turbo was damaged? i'd start there before i started chucking coils or an other electronic bits at it....

[Ninka]

I agree, it sounds like plugs need renewing or re-gapping

Could possibly be over boosting as well, as the new turbo may 'surprise' the PCM, so disconnect the battery for 30 minutes to reset the PCM.

[KAZ68U]

yeah its not over boosting I did suspect that but its missing and coughing and loses all p-ower when any boost is referenced ie reading boost gaugue while I keep it in the vacum its all good no matter how hard I accelerate but go above 0 psi and it starts and from there you carnt exactly keep your foot into it coz the engine li9ght comes on and she goes to stall quite weird!!

[Ninka]

Possibly a faulty T-MAP sensor (is located under the throttle body in the plenum).

I had mine die, and car would not run when boosting, and mixture was very rich.

Changed the sensor, and she was all good as new again.

If the engine light comes on, I would think you have a faulty sensor somewhere

[KAZ68U]

well guys havent sorted it out yet just wanted to see if theres any other suggestions as to why this thing is playing up.

Im leaning towards map sensor faulty as when you nail it as soon as it gets to 0vac/psi she starts to break up.

Anything in the vacumn part of the gauge your right but boost nonono wont have a bar of it.

[2fardown]

Have you checked to see if the PCM is showing any errors?

[45T-XR]

well guys havent sorted it out yet just wanted to see if theres any other suggestions as to why this thing is playing up.

Im leaning towards map sensor faulty as when you nail it as soon as it gets to 0vac/psi she starts to break up.

Anything in the vacumn part of the gauge your right but boost nonono wont have a bar of it.

Check the wiring harness for the vct, When I worked for Ford I had that problem a few times when blokes would go and take the rocker cover off to plugs or coils, Its hard to screw it up because the harneses are actually different lengths and requires, but I had a typhoon do the same, it was fine whilst putting around off boost, then have no power and/or missfire, then the MIL (mulfunction indicator lamp for engine) comes on. If you get a code check done, you will know for sure if it is this problem because it logs codes for both intake and exhaust cams too far advance and retard which if you think about it is impossible to have too much advance and retard for both cams. and is thrown due to the cams moving as they do, then the pcm thinking its the wrong cam, hope this helps, good luck

Mic