Custom / Aftermarket Piping From Turbo To Cooler.

[Eugene]

Hi all,

I am after some info or leads on anyone who has done the piping from turbo to cooler.

I want to leave the inlet on the same side, I want to outlet to be on passanger side for a custom plenum etc setup.

I know rapid did it but his flips the cooler, so does the new hybrid setup.

anyone done it in mandrel bends or straights and rubber etc.

tips, hints, pics.

my plan was to take the factory rubber bit to the local exhaust guy here in town, he has amandrell bender and make his owb headers etc, bit of aguru when it comes to this sort of stuff, have him copy the rubber in 2.5inch stanless as close as he can, if I need to cut it and use a silicon joint I can and go from there, any thoughts.

Oh and as a side note, if you are putting on a cooler, say a wog core or similar, look long and hard a removing the factory ally under battery bit too, it is the most restrictive bit in the whole setup, it drops down to well under golf ball size inside.

I just broke out the vernier and measured the inside of the pipe, yuk, it is 53mm high and 33 mm wide a grand total of 17.5 cm sq, 50 mm pipe has a n arrea of 19.5cm sq, which is what the outlet of the turbo is, so unless that is changed, all other increases will be held back.

as for relocating the inderbattery map sensor, this is easy, fet a 10mm barbed fittin somewhare after the cooler before the butterfly, use a short lenght of silicon 10mm id tube to connect the sensor to the barbed fitting, add clamps, easy, the sensor doesnt need to be earthed to function, and it can be stasheed out of veiw like that, simple.

[RAP1D]

Ive changed mine and flipped the IC now but I havnt got around to finishing off the turbo to IC side... just have to weld it all together.

Bigger piping makes a big difference to the way it drives, well worth the effort

Edited 18/10/06 03:44 AM by RAP1D

[driftpig01]

Iam just about to complete my intercooler setup, It will be 3" from the turbo to the crossover pipe. I am using silicon joiners and aluminium pipe.

I have taken the design from the a couple of systems and combined, the inlet of the intercooler on the passanger side, this involves a 90° turn where the pipe meets the radiator then a 180° turn to hook back upto the intercooler.

On the outlet side it will have 90° turned up to the head light, 90° turn under the light, and yes 3" will fit under the headlight with a litle love from the jigsaw, now heres the magic starts, 3" between the headlight and the battery, a couple of 45°'s will get you to a point where the 3" pipe then sit on the spill tray for the power steering then finally a 45° with reducer to fit onto the crossover pipe.

Tonight Iam having a crack a making the pipe that will hold the boost sensor this will be in mild steel then painted.

I am using a 600x300 cheap cooler, all up including the cooler, pipe and bends I have spent $490

Parts List

3" 90° x 7

3" 45° x 3

3" joiners x 1

3" - 2.5" x 1

3m of Aluminium pipe (plenty left over)

24 SS t bolt clamps

Couple of cartons of burbon

I know this is pointless without pics, I will post pics once complete. Maybe next weekend, its indy this weekend.

To fit in the intercooler involves a lot of love from the angle grinder

Edited 18/10/06 04:18 AM by driftpig01

[Eugene]

Well, here is the start, no-one seems to make the pipes I was after, so I dropped it around to the exhaust guy to copy the bends in 2.5" stainless.

there were 6 bends in total, first pic is what I started with, the second pic is the bends all cut and shut ready to tig up.

the joint where the blue tap is is going to be a rubber joint, it is not possible to slip this thin in place when on ramps in one peice, maybe on ahoist you could get it in, but the joint will allow for alittle bit of fudging to get it all lines up.

the turbo end still needs to be cut off another 3 inches or so and a 2"to2.5" reducer welded on, then straight 2" will attach to the turbo.

the other end (where the big 180 turn is) will be trimmed as required, but I have to mount my new cooler first then I will know where it can be cut, the cooler I have coming has 2.5" inlets, so no adaptors are required, just straight joints, the claps in the photo are the ones I will be using.

Once the cooler is mounted I will do the same thing up to the inlet on the plenum, which is now mounted on the pasanger side, all I need is a little bit of tig magic to make an mount for threTB, and all is good.

then relocate the battery to the tray, fabricate a pipe,or use the stock plastic one cut and shut, to mount a pod filter where the battery lived, and an alloy cover to stop heat and crap.

then make and mount a 2500cc surge tank and Bosch 044 fuel pump.

and fit my exhaust temp sensor and gauge and fuel pressure gauge.

then im done, ready for a tune.

[xlnt6]

Eugene,

Do yourself a favour and leave it as two pieces. If you make it as a single stainless pipe you'll find it difficult to get in and out due to the restricted movement under the car. Also it gives you a rotation point to make up for any manufacturing inaccuracies. It's only a single joiner, so it won't cost much more. Also get the ends roll beaded or build a bead of weld just before the ends, at least at three points seperated by 120 degrees or so. Straight pipe without beads will cause problems with hoses working off over time, even with T-bolt clamps.

Cheers

Robin.

[Eugene]

Hi Robin,

As you have said, it will be a two peice affair as clearance is too tight,and a little bit of fudging can be got with a rubber joint.

I will get a bead put on the ends once done, thanks.

[2fardown]

Nice work. Keep us up to date with pics etc. Wouldn't mind having a crack at this myself.

[ROLMDL]

nice work Eugene which cooler are you puting on?

[F6 UTE]

Eugene, it seems we are taking the exact same path, and we don't even discuss the mods we are planning on to each other!!

I have just bought two 2.5" doughnuts, and some 2.5" pipe.

I have the wogs cooler coming ( ?? ) and I'll probably flip it..

I have my 2.5" - TB adapter in silicone. PM and I'll send you the part number if you require it.

Looking forward to how it goes..

[RAP1D]

Looks the goods... I'd just use a 2.5in to 2in silicon reducer instead of the steel one you mentioned on the comp housing, saves welding and they're only 25 bucks.