Hi there Boys and Girls,

I am starting to think I have Fuel starvation issue with my ute, after some extended hard driving, say up and over 4500rpm for more than a few seconds there is a small blip/hessitiation that hasn't always been there, it is worse with less fuel in the tank, but is doing it more and more now, I think my fuel pump has died. RIP.

I have a walbro GSS341 in tank ready to go, but would like to know if there is any little tricks to look out for in fitting it.

I am planning on doing it Sunday and dont want to have a drive into the spares shop to get a hose clamp or bolt or some other piddle ass thing for no reason.

Any help or tips would be good, please remember its a ute, are the tanks a pain to get out etc.

thanks heaps.

I have a fuel gauge problem that they think is caused by the sender in the tank, ford service tell me they either have to drop the diff to get at the tank or take the tray off, dont know if the story is correct or if it is the same to get at the fuel pump, good luck and let us know how you get on

Eugene.

Had to replace the pump in my ute about 4 months ago as the flow had dropped right off and starveing my high volume pump up the front.So this is the story mate.

I have a APS stage 2 kit so the centre pipe had to be removed but you might not have to do this if running a standard exhaust.

The tank has to come out at a angle mate as you will understand when you see the filler neck on how far it sticks out when you fill your tank up.The angle will be sideways and to the rear to.

You will have to disconnect your handbrake cables and loosen off the 2 centre locateing bolts for the diff on the leaf springs as the diff has to be moved back for clearance.The diff can just hang on the leaf springs mate as not going anywhere.

Now just loosen the 2 straps holding the tank in being careful of the weight depending on how full your tank is and lower to the centre and out she will come.I am sure you dont need to be told the fuel feed lines just disconnect near the front of the tank.The carbon cannister will come out with the tank mate as bolted on.

Remove the 4 phillip head screws holding the complete pump and cannister and just pull up.Be careful not to damage the sender unit as quite long.

I just replaced the old pump with a complete new one from Ford so cant decribe how this would fit as did not look a easy job putting into the original cannister.My old pump had self destructed on the bottom like yours I would say with metal fillings filling up the prepump filter from the inside..Good luck and hope this helps mate.

All I have to say it was the biggest pain in the ass. I will never do that again. I left it on the ute when I sold it.

with a 6spd manual T ute, what would the standard fuel pump max out at?

im doing valvesprings,edit,968's,exhaust mods,CAI. aiming for about 280-290atw, should I need to do the fuel pump aswell?

BIG JOB………. In a Ute and 5 mins in a sedan

Where to start???????

Ok in theory you need to remove the Tail shaft, Exhaust,hand brake cable, rear axle as the Diff input yoke fouls.

But if you’re creative you can:

1st Unbolt the tail shaft at the differential Yoke (mark weights if its balanced like F6) and tie it back towards the drives side.

2nd Remove (unclip) the 3 fuel lines from the chassis at the front of the fuel tank

3rd Undo the 2 strap bolts allowing the tank to drop down a ways.

4th Move the tank slightly to the right and unbolt the Bracket from the chassis that supports the back left of the tank.

5th Jiggle the tank around so you can unclip the fuel lines and electrics from the top of the tank and let the rear of the tank fall down about 45 deg.

6th Then looking from over the diff you can see and unscrew the complete Swirl pot assembly and remove it.

This way you don’t have to remove the Diff housing or exhaust.. not even the tray!!

%$(&^$(&%^$#^$(&^()&()&*%^$&%

That’s the hard part ….. when you’ve done that you then need to do the pump which is another story in itself!!!!!!!!!!!

cant a inline pump be added to raise fuel-line pressures instead of going thru all that sh*t on a ute?

BIG JOB………. In a Ute     and 5 mins in a sedan

Where to start???????

Ok in theory you need to remove the Tail shaft, Exhaust,hand brake cable, rear axle as the Diff input yoke fouls.

But if you’re creative you can:

1st Unbolt the tail shaft at the differential Yoke (mark weights if its balanced like F6) and tie it back towards the drives side.

2nd Remove (unclip) the 3 fuel lines from the chassis at the front of the fuel tank

3rd Undo the 2 strap bolts allowing the tank to drop down a ways.

4th Move the tank slightly to the right and unbolt the Bracket from the chassis that supports the back left of the tank.

5th Jiggle the tank around so you can unclip the fuel lines and electrics from the top of the tank and let the rear of the tank fall down about 45 deg.

6th Then looking from over the diff you can see and unscrew the complete Swirl pot assembly and remove it.

This way you don’t have to remove the Diff housing or exhaust.. not even the tray!!

%$(&^$(&%^$#^$(&^()&()&*%^$&%  

That’s the hard part ….. when you’ve done that you then need to do the pump which is another story in itself!!!!!!!!!!!

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

mate sounds like you can come and do mine!!!!

BIG JOB………. In a Ute    and 5 mins in a sedan

Where to start???????

Ok in theory you need to remove the Tail shaft, Exhaust,hand brake cable, rear axle as the Diff input yoke fouls.

But if you’re creative you can:

1st Unbolt the tail shaft at the differential Yoke (mark weights if its balanced like F6) and tie it back towards the drives side.

2nd Remove (unclip) the 3 fuel lines from the chassis at the front of the fuel tank

3rd Undo the 2 strap bolts allowing the tank to drop down a ways.

4th Move the tank slightly to the right and unbolt the Bracket from the chassis that supports the back left of the tank.

5th Jiggle the tank around so you can unclip the fuel lines and electrics from the top of the tank and let the rear of the tank fall down about 45 deg.

6th Then looking from over the diff you can see and unscrew the complete Swirl pot assembly and remove it.

This way you don’t have to remove the Diff housing or exhaust.. not even the tray!!

%$(&^$(&%^$#^$(&^()&()&*%^$&%  

That’s the hard part ….. when you’ve done that you then need to do the pump which is another story in itself!!!!!!!!!!!

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

mate sounds like you can come and do mine!!!!

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

No way Nick its a *beep* of a Job and now I know why I am a Bulldozer Mechanic and not a car mechanic

I think I'll be doing like XRSEX did and leave it there when I sell it!!!

Fixed my surge @ 3000rpm though

Just take the tub off. It will be quicker.

Trust me!