weapon Member 75 Member For: 22y 4m 12d Posted 12/07/05 11:40 AM Posted 12/07/05 11:40 AM I have the wiring info from ford on the factory amp if anyone is interested or if they can help me as I am going to wire up a new amp and I am hopeing to use the factory wiring and not have to use line out converterssory I only have a print out and I dont have a scanner so I cant show the diagrambut from what I can tell the factory amp in the boot of cars with prem soundgoes like thisred=accesorygreen=diagnosticsyellow=in positiveshield=in negativetwo thick yellow=battery powerblacks=earth (I think)blue/white/silver=subwoofer negative(I think)blue=not shorethe positive wire to the sub does not have a colour marked on it so I dont know what it is
GOLDIE My new toy Legacy Donating Member 5,344 Member For: 23y 5m 17d Gender: Male Location: stanthorpe wine capital of qld. Posted 12/07/05 11:38 PM Posted 12/07/05 11:38 PM I have the wiring info from ford on the factory amp if anyone is interested or if they can help me as I am going to wire up a new amp and I am hopeing to use the factory wiring and not have to use line out converterssory I only have a print out and I dont have a scanner so I cant show the diagrambut from what I can tell the factory amp in the boot of cars with prem soundgoes like thisred=accesorygreen=diagnosticsyellow=in positiveshield=in negativetwo thick yellow=battery powerblacks=earth (I think)blue/white/silver=subwoofer negative(I think)blue=not shorethe positive wire to the sub does not have a colour marked on it so I dont know what it is<{POST_SNAPBACK}>You are right with the wiring the blue is the positive to the sub.You should be able to get an amp that takes speaker level inputs.Ian
bkofoed Member 90 Member For: 23y 6m 28d Posted 13/07/05 12:22 AM Posted 13/07/05 12:22 AM I have the wiring info from ford on the factory amp if anyone is interested or if they can help me as I am going to wire up a new amp and I am hopeing to use the factory wiring and not have to use line out converterssory I only have a print out and I dont have a scanner so I cant show the diagrambut from what I can tell the factory amp in the boot of cars with prem soundgoes like thisred=accesorygreen=diagnosticsyellow=in positiveshield=in negativetwo thick yellow=battery powerblacks=earth (I think)blue/white/silver=subwoofer negative(I think)blue=not shorethe positive wire to the sub does not have a colour marked on it so I dont know what it is<{POST_SNAPBACK}>You are right with the wiring the blue is the positive to the sub.You should be able to get an amp that takes speaker level inputs.Ian<{POST_SNAPBACK}>Is the Shielded Yellow the signal? What level is it at? I've got a JBL amp looking for a new home I'd rather use low level inputs (unamplified) than using the sub out and chaining two amps (and two sets of THD and distortion!) together.BK
Paradoxx Colossal Member Member 5,049 Member For: 22y 1m 15d Gender: Male Location: Perth, WA Posted 13/07/05 12:25 AM Posted 13/07/05 12:25 AM Buy a line level converter... I think they are about 20 bucks. Just be careful not to have the level too high or you will blow trannys (from experience)
XR06T Legacy Donating Member 4,146 Member For: 21y 3m 17d Gender: Male Posted 13/07/05 03:07 AM Posted 13/07/05 03:07 AM is that wiring for the amp only in the premium sound cars??I have a large stereo to go in mine an was wonderin the diameter of the battery power supply cable, the two thick yellow ones?where can these wires be located, in boot or under seat?cheers
bkofoed Member 90 Member For: 23y 6m 28d Posted 13/07/05 03:34 AM Posted 13/07/05 03:34 AM (edited) Buy a line level converter... I think they are about 20 bucks. Just be careful not to have the level too high or you will blow trannys (from experience)<{POST_SNAPBACK}>Line convertor would be fine, but I'm after quality. Remember the amps amplify everything they get, including noise. Hmmmm. I think I'll complicate things Time for some high school algebra:You're suggestion using a line conv, I.e:Option 1:SOURCE SIGNAL(+noise) --> FORD AMP(+noise) ---> LINE CONV --> JBL AMP(+noise) = Sound Better is my preferred:Option 2:SOURCE SIGNAL(+noise) --> JBL AMP(+noise) = SoundTo use numbers, say source is 10 noise is 0.1n, Line conv = 1/40 (noiseless, not quite true, but will do for illustration) and Ford Amp = 40+0.5 noise, JBL amp = 60+0.5 noise (I.e. higher output and lower noise than Ford amp)We have, in original system:(40+0.5n) x (10+0.1n) = 400 + 4n + 5n + 0.05n^2 = 400 + 9n + 0.05n^2So signal to noise is 9/400+9 = 2.22% noise (ignoring the n^2) in the ORIGINAL setup with FORD AMPTo vaugely calc noise With option 1:{ [(40+0.5n) x (10+0.1n) ] x 1/40 } x (60+0.5n) = ([400 + 4n +5n + 0.05n^2] / 40) x (60+0.5n) = (10 + 0.225n + 0.00125n^2) x (60+0.5n) = 600 + 5n + 13.5n + 0.05625n^2 + 0.075n^2 + 0.000625n^3 = 600 + 18.5n + 0.13126^2 + 0.000625n^3We have more volume, but more noise, 18.5/618.5 = 2.99% noise now (ignoring the other n^2 and n^3)And to calc noise With option 2:(60+0.5n) x (10 + 0.1n) = 600 + 6n + 5n + 0.05n^2 = 600 + 11n + 0.05n^2Now we have same volume output as option 1, and noise of 11/611 = 1.63% noise (again, ignoring n^2).To summarise, using my approximations, ICC sound is 1% noiseFactory Amp output = 2.22% noiseChained Amps + line conv (even with the lower noise JBL!) = 2.99% noiseMy amp from ICC direct = 1.63% noise Ofcourse this is a simplification, and YMMV. I haven't really done justice to Signal to Noise ratio calculations here, and would horrify audio engineers the world over with my fatally flawed assumption based approach. Plus it's debatable if you or I could hear 3% noise vs 1.5% noise (esp at sub woofer frequencies, with crossovers rolling of High Freq's in both it's probably nowhere near that bad).But I hope you can see what I'm getting at, and given the choice I'd rather pull the Ford amp out and connect mine direct. BK Edited 13/07/05 03:38 AM by bkofoed
weapon Member 75 Member For: 22y 4m 12d Posted 13/07/05 10:33 AM Author Posted 13/07/05 10:33 AM I will post the diagram of the wiring of the whole icc and where every wire goes as soon as I scan it I hope this will help I also would like to avoid using line out convertersand as for buying one for $20 I would think they would sound any good cause the stinger ones are like $100 that's what I would get
Demonio Legacy Donating Member 109 Member For: 21y 3m 16d Gender: Male Location: Mackay North QLD Posted 15/08/05 04:23 AM Posted 15/08/05 04:23 AM I have the wiring info from ford on the factory amp if anyone is interested or if they can help me as I am going to wire up a new amp and I am hopeing to use the factory wiring and not have to use line out converterssory I only have a print out and I dont have a scanner so I cant show the diagrambut from what I can tell the factory amp in the boot of cars with prem soundgoes like thisred=accesorygreen=diagnosticsyellow=in positiveshield=in negativetwo thick yellow=battery powerblacks=earth (I think)blue/white/silver=subwoofer negative(I think)blue=not shorethe positive wire to the sub does not have a colour marked on it so I dont know what it isWhere abouts is this Amp?? I am looking to replace it and haven't had a chance to pull all the lining out of the boot
Turbofalke Member 658 Member For: 21y 10m 25d Location: Mexico Posted 15/08/05 05:44 AM Posted 15/08/05 05:44 AM In the boot on the passenger side wall behind the boot lining from memory.
Demonio Legacy Donating Member 109 Member For: 21y 3m 16d Gender: Male Location: Mackay North QLD Posted 15/08/05 06:18 AM Posted 15/08/05 06:18 AM In the boot on the passenger side wall behind the boot lining from memory.Thank you for your help.
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