Aps Phase 1

[FPV 521]

Gavin,

I also went the Phase 1 then onto Phase2+. The Phase 1 does make a difference to the car and you won't ever regret it, but of course its cheaper to go straight to Phase 2 and you will not only enjoy the 'whoosh' factor but the grin on your dial will help light up the South Island. Either way they will make the car so much better than the standard.

Regards

M G

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Thanks, from the sounds of it I am better to go to phase 2 so I had better get saving

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Save up mate its worth it im on phase 3 and a bit now and its awesome..

jeff

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I bet

[jetute]

Gavin,

I also went the Phase 1 then onto Phase2+. The Phase 1 does make a difference to the car and you won't ever regret it, but of course its cheaper to go straight to Phase 2 and you will not only enjoy the 'whoosh' factor but the grin on your dial will help light up the South Island. Either way they will make the car so much better than the standard.

Regards

M G

Thanks, from the sounds of it I am better to go to phase 2 so I had better get saving

Save up mate its worth it im on phase 3 and a bit now and its awesome..

jeff

I bet

its a pity u dont have a ute... one of the guys on the site is selling his whole phase 2 kit for $2900

[LAZY6]

ZapXR6T what surging problems did u have?

and what did ford say about the phase one?

for a manual exactly what else is required in having it run 100% fine with phase 1?(chip and injectors)

I.e valvesprings?

something about exhaust back pressure?

anything else?

Edited 15/12/04 04:22 AM by LAZY6

[Guest jteale]

FYI,

APS Phase 1 (more specifically the Unichip) has smoothed out my idle and has fixed throttle surging on my T also ... after heavy braking the idle would hunt up and down for some reason ... since Ph1 no problems ... I had a similar issue with my AUII and in the worst case scenario my car would stall ... I believe quite a few people have had stalling issues after their T is a little older.

My dealer will never see my T again so they don't have an issue with my Phase 1 ... or my Phase 2 when I upgrade

I would recommend Valve Spring replacements with any upgrade, if you are unlucky and have ordinary Valve Springs then it can limit your options ... simply do it first and you have no dramas (if the springs are open for a little longer than they should be then this can cause the exhaust back pressure issues) ... there is heaps on this on the Forum

Cheers, Jason.

[XR6_ED]

Valve springs aren't necessary with phase I

make sure you get the plugs regapped to between .8mm to .9mm .You may get a miss if you don't

[Flukey]

make sure you get the plugs regapped to between .8mm to .9mm .You may get a miss if you don't

Interesting, I wouldnt of thought of that.....

Does Phase 1 help in the pre-boost rev range, like sub 3000RPM?? I am trying to understand if the car would get off the line quicker with it.

[XR6_ED]

make sure you get the plugs regapped to between .8mm to .9mm .You may get a miss if you don't

Interesting, I wouldnt of thought of that.....

Does Phase 1 help in the pre-boost rev range, like sub 3000RPM?? I am trying to understand if the car would get off the line quicker with it.

Cant remember only had it 4 weeks :lol: ..

From memory the boost started to kick in around 2500 ,much stronger than a STD T..

Cant vouche from a auto ,but my manual launched quite nicely until the clutch gave up

[LAZY6]

clutch gave up?

u saying u need a stronger clutch also? or what sort of driving where you doing?

the more info the better please.

[XR6_ED]

My flywheel was dished..Only a 1/3 of the clutch plate was touching the flywheel..

Mine was probably a warranty in the making to begin with..Don't concern yourself,your will probably be fine..

Ive upgraded my clutch (at my own expense) to a ceramic clutch plate, aluminum flywheel and a pressure plate rated at 360rwkw

The dealer offered to replace the flywheel but I didn't plan to use it anyway

[LAZY6]

Ahh k thanks for that.

I dont own one yet. BUT just want to no exactly whats needed prior to buying that's all.

Ive read of the aps site about valve springs and exhaust back pressure and dont understand it, just like overboost and etc

I obviously want decent power but dont want anything cut short.

If a stock clutch is good for 300fwkw then that's as far as id really plan to go.

I also want to try stay warrenty safe