If a stock clutch is good for 300fwkw then that's as far as id really plan to go.

You obviously haven't heard of the more power bug then :lol:

If a stock clutch is good for 300fwkw then that's as far as id really plan to go.

You obviously haven't heard of the more power bug then :lol:

P.S I started with Phase I after 4 weeks I got Phase II...that's about as far as I will go :lol: NOT...Intercooler/wastegate next

im 20yrs old and have a decent job but wouldnt spend 5k on mods that's all.

I have to retain some sort of warrenty and reliability for my age

Valve springs aren't necessary with phase I

make sure you get the plugs regapped to between .8mm to .9mm .You may get a miss if you don't

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Mmmm... are you sure, how many cars have you applied an APS Phase 1 too?

Just curious as the results are mixed as the standard Valve Spring quality can be wide and varied... it would only take a small amout of valve hop to cause issues, I did my homework on this issue and I know some independant experts in Motorsport who said weak Valve Springs can be a serious issue ...

I also had the plugs regapped to fix overboost not for APS Phase 1 ... I am not sure how a smaller gap can fix valve hop?!?!

Happy to be re-educated.

Cheers, Jason.

FYI,

APS Phase 1 (more specifically the Unichip) has smoothed out my idle and has fixed throttle surging on my T also ... after heavy braking the idle would hunt up and down for some reason ... since Ph1 no problems ... I had a similar issue with my AUII and in the worst case scenario my car would stall ... I believe quite a few people have had stalling issues after their T is a little older.

My dealer will never see my T again so they don't have an issue with my Phase 1 ... or my Phase 2 when I upgrade

I would recommend Valve Spring replacements with any upgrade, if you are unlucky and have ordinary Valve Springs then it can limit your options ... simply do it first and you have no dramas (if the springs are open for a little longer than they should be then this can cause the exhaust back pressure issues) ... there is heaps on this on the Forum

Cheers, Jason.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I am having a similar ilde problem with my manual T. I dont know if it occurs after heavy breaking, but if I depress the clutch when rolling (up to lights etc) the idle hunts from near stall to nearly 1000 rpm (up/down/up etc) (stalled a couple of times too!). When I come to standstill it evens out. Only started in the last couple thousand k's or so. I reported at 30000 service and the flashed the ecu and said it would be fixed, seemed OK for a couiple of days but now back to same. Any advice? Are there any other threads about this?

Thanks

Ian