Nathan017

managed to narrow this down to the rear LED tail lamps fitted , unplugged the side causing the issue , and when car realises its off it still flickers but fast, rather then when its plugged it and it malfunctions all indicators stop completely on that side . noticed a few LEDS out on each of the panels so im thinking of replacing them completely to see if it is the problem. I noticed resistors underneath , x 2 on each side to ramp the volts up, could out LEDs cause drop in voltage therefor tripping the computer

hmmm leaves me stuck as to why this is happening, bizarre enough when the car isn't running it doesn't cause any issues as I just realised when I tried swapping bulbs around to see if there was any bulb on it is way out potentially.

checked all the diagrams and doesn’t state a relay for indicators

I have my drivers indicator randomly stopping and start flashing fast like a bulb is blown - however none are blown and they all work. this only happens on the drivers side, iv done some reading about changing the indicators relay but I cant seem to locate it in any fuse diagrams or any previous threads? can anyone share any info to help so annoying and potentially dangerous.

iv just had a look online for new rubber support saddle insulators and iv realised my rear leafs only have the top mount saddle not the bottom, makes me wonder if this would cause vibration as it’s basically metal on metal contact , and since it’s been my first observation on a vehicle with leafs I haven’t known any different

Ahhhhhh no luck. So over this issue, its making me not want to drive it anymore. I honestly am baffled as to why it's doing this . Is there anything else that could be causing this ? even gave the engine a few revs with the break to see if there was any engine mount issues.

iv just done that and then removed the diff shims as I feel like they made it worse . went around the block seams better, although I can still mildly feel it . should I do it again now the diff shims are removed ? this may sound like a stupid question, but looking under the car the from the transmission to the center bearing through to the diff , should the center bearing onwards have a slight angle in the tail shaft or should it be completely straight ? as makes me wonder do people add washers to the centre bearing bolts to drop it at all as when I loosen the centre bearing it dropped about 15mm worth before it had no strain . sorry for your the essay, just so over this vibration that im really getting fed up diagnosing this

When you say loosen the bolts to the body, what am I looking to accomplish when the slack has been taken off the centre bearing. Are you saying the bearing will re-position it’s self

finally installed the new centre bearing, after a much awaited arrival with the aus post delays I was keen to get rid of my vibrating problems, I also on hand ordered some diff shims. wasn’t that hard of a job swapping it over, the main pain was the messy cv joint , knocking the cog off the spline insert was a nuisance, otherwise tackled it all within 3 hours with just two jack stands in the driveway . went for a drive and the vibration had calmed down a little, although on the straight and up hills in low rpms it still vibrates . came back installed the 2degree diff shims , pointing it up toward the engine, drove and the sound seamed worse . I think I’ll have to try swap them around the other way pointing the diff down toward the engine . anyone have any other ideas about this vibration I’m receiving ?

sorted - bloody tic tac micro chip in the remote which wasn’t removed . what an idiot I was 🤣

can someone help I’m completely stuck literally changed my key plastic surround this morning and went to go start the car and it’s locked to the immobiliser which I thought was pure coincidence. so I purchased a new battery after reading the forums about these fords don’t like low battery voltage . after changing the battery I’m still in the same boat unfortunately. can anyone shed some light on things I could check as to why this is happening ?

can any one comment on identifying what size they usually are ? I measured the center bearing itself and it is 175 mm or so to the centre's of the bolts but I can’t distinguish if it’s 30mm or 35’mm thickness without removing the whole shaft itself which I’m trying to avoid

iv seen the part isn’t too costly, iv had a few quotes today $550 being the cheapest, I would like to do it myself as I do like to tackle these things and achieve the sense of accomplishment.

Awesome this finally diagnoses my vibration issues can any one recommend a place in sydney that can do this ? getting few nasty quotes of $1600 to do this and apparently send off the tail shaft to be balanced

hi guys , iv never diagnosed a center bearing but is this one due for replacement ? and how much should I be looking at paying to have this replaced ? trying to solve my diff vibration thanks

no the springs are factory and I have recently purchased new shocks, just more or less wondering what will add to the comfortability if changed, just not content with the ride feel , feels a little rattly over sh*t roads and you can hear it in the dash - weather this is just a ford thing or I’m being too fussy lol

wondering what other components I can change to get the maximum drive comfortability . the chasis itself has over 200k on it . so far iv changed shocks and removed a few leafs from the rear which has helped majorly. although it is still bumpy as on the front, iv ordered new sway bar links but just wondering what components will make the most difference when changing from people’s experience

can happen, happened to me 3 weeks ago ironically. I purchased some shocks online, was on the motor way and could hear mild vibration - naturally wondering what it was, less then 10 secs after I took the exit and bang! the sound of a baseball bat hitting the side of the car. got out and inspected, the whole strut gave way, the plate that holds the spring on came down and the spring was dangling, car was low on its ass on one corner. pain but these things can have manufacture faults

spent some time reading the pined posts, wondering if it is advantageous upgrading the stock cooler to something a little bigger, currently running 12 - 14 psi on around 310kw tuned. Is there any bonus in upgrading this , or is the stock cooler more then sufficient? I don’t plan on doing any more major upgrades just yet as I’m quite satisfied with the power currently, but in saying that iv been replacing a lot of parts so wouldn’t mind a new one in there if it means better flow without causing too much lag

yep I’ll have to give it a go today, pain in the ass of a job but beats $900 from pedders. I’ll probably have to tinker with the diff angle as well as I still have a 5% vibration slightly as certain speeds opposed to before when it was very jerky on low rpms

okay so I basically need to take out 2 from the stack , to achieve the xr6 comfort / lower form as mine has about 5 in the stack . once removing the the clip holding them are they needed to keep together ? as I’ve seen a lot of guys just grinding them off and not reusing them pedders wanted $900 to do a spring reset which

if I’m to removed that main lower one with the bolt harness would that make much difference without disturbing the main pack ?

id never be carrying over 500kgs, am I able to remove a few leaves to match the xr6 suspension from what you see in the photo ?

ill give it a go thanks sorry for the bad angle taken last night, can take more today if needed

thanks for your response, is there a way to add a photo without uploading it to an external party site? im believe what you are saying is probably correct, I guess I will have to look out for some second hands springs. I recently shimmed my diff when removing the leaf as it caused vibration from the pinion angle. would these Utes with lower leaf packs have a pre desired diff angle to suit these springs