Nathan017

managed to narrow this down to the rear LED tail lamps fitted , unplugged the side causing the issue , and when car realises its off it still flickers but fast, rather then when its plugged it and it malfunctions all indicators stop completely on that side . noticed a few LEDS out on each of the panels so im thinking of replacing them completely to see if it is the problem. I noticed resistors underneath , x 2 on each side to ramp the volts up, could out LEDs cause drop in voltage therefor tripping the computer

hmmm leaves me stuck as to why this is happening, bizarre enough when the car isn't running it doesn't cause any issues as I just realised when I tried swapping bulbs around to see if there was any bulb on it is way out potentially.

checked all the diagrams and doesn’t state a relay for indicators

I have my drivers indicator randomly stopping and start flashing fast like a bulb is blown - however none are blown and they all work. this only happens on the drivers side, iv done some reading about changing the indicators relay but I cant seem to locate it in any fuse diagrams or any previous threads? can anyone share any info to help so annoying and potentially dangerous.

iv just had a look online for new rubber support saddle insulators and iv realised my rear leafs only have the top mount saddle not the bottom, makes me wonder if this would cause vibration as it’s basically metal on metal contact , and since it’s been my first observation on a vehicle with leafs I haven’t known any different

Ahhhhhh no luck. So over this issue, its making me not want to drive it anymore. I honestly am baffled as to why it's doing this . Is there anything else that could be causing this ? even gave the engine a few revs with the break to see if there was any engine mount issues.

iv just done that and then removed the diff shims as I feel like they made it worse . went around the block seams better, although I can still mildly feel it . should I do it again now the diff shims are removed ? this may sound like a stupid question, but looking under the car the from the transmission to the center bearing through to the diff , should the center bearing onwards have a slight angle in the tail shaft or should it be completely straight ? as makes me wonder do people add washers to the centre bearing bolts to drop it at all as when I loosen the centre bearing it dropped about 15mm worth before it had no strain . sorry for your the essay, just so over this vibration that im really getting fed up diagnosing this

When you say loosen the bolts to the body, what am I looking to accomplish when the slack has been taken off the centre bearing. Are you saying the bearing will re-position it’s self

finally installed the new centre bearing, after a much awaited arrival with the aus post delays I was keen to get rid of my vibrating problems, I also on hand ordered some diff shims. wasn’t that hard of a job swapping it over, the main pain was the messy cv joint , knocking the cog off the spline insert was a nuisance, otherwise tackled it all within 3 hours with just two jack stands in the driveway . went for a drive and the vibration had calmed down a little, although on the straight and up hills in low rpms it still vibrates . came back installed the 2degree diff shims , pointing it up toward the engine, drove and the sound seamed worse . I think I’ll have to try swap them around the other way pointing the diff down toward the engine . anyone have any other ideas about this vibration I’m receiving ?

sorted - bloody tic tac micro chip in the remote which wasn’t removed . what an idiot I was 🤣

can someone help I’m completely stuck literally changed my key plastic surround this morning and went to go start the car and it’s locked to the immobiliser which I thought was pure coincidence. so I purchased a new battery after reading the forums about these fords don’t like low battery voltage . after changing the battery I’m still in the same boat unfortunately. can anyone shed some light on things I could check as to why this is happening ?

can any one comment on identifying what size they usually are ? I measured the center bearing itself and it is 175 mm or so to the centre's of the bolts but I can’t distinguish if it’s 30mm or 35’mm thickness without removing the whole shaft itself which I’m trying to avoid

iv seen the part isn’t too costly, iv had a few quotes today $550 being the cheapest, I would like to do it myself as I do like to tackle these things and achieve the sense of accomplishment.

Awesome this finally diagnoses my vibration issues can any one recommend a place in sydney that can do this ? getting few nasty quotes of $1600 to do this and apparently send off the tail shaft to be balanced

hi guys , iv never diagnosed a center bearing but is this one due for replacement ? and how much should I be looking at paying to have this replaced ? trying to solve my diff vibration thanks