Ruger

When your battery is on its way out that few minutes of water pump could be the difference of your car starting or not.

there is a few issues I have with these - first being battery. the pump running when the car is off is not good for the battery in any way it will take its toll on the battery over time. No matter how effiecient it is its still an electrical motor and it still puts strain on the battery. I wouldnt run one without a deep cycle battery! Belt issues have been covered by you lot its a big issue. And failure! I know a bloke an engine builder who runs one in a 253 powered torana failed after 2 and a bit years nearly cooked the donk. as for horsepower - the windsor blokes in the states in their 5.0 stangs get 11hp. For us in our brand new modern cars to get 9-10rwkw in my opinion is a little on the optimistic side im thinking more like 4-6kw max. its about 10hp on a clevo too afaik so go from those figures.

im 50 50, on it count me in for now but I may have to pull out.

I read it, Re read it, Re read it again, squinted at the photos for a good hour then said to myself how the **** did he get that working! he mentioned someone in perth if I get another twin system going ill be giving him a call alright!

4495's here dunno what rwkw im making but ive run 95mph.

what ya looking at doin ? my next will probably be davies craig ewp

I'll throw mine in also as its got the xr8 cat back magnaflow metal cat and pacemaker 4495's http://members.optusnet.com.au/quantum3/exhaust.avi

HAHAHA The Primer Destroyer! awesome name. especially with all the scratches and dings and scuffs all over it it definately looks like its destroyed a few things in its life! The car is a mess lol not one panel is clean and scratch free The air con is a dash out job and easy days work. be carefull when you take the seat out not to scratch the paintwork on the inner panel thing where the door goes. Take the box one off all together All the 4 way rubbish is all in the seat rail. get a fabricator to make a custom one wont be too expensive A few weeks sounds good to me mate shouldnt be a drama ill let you know closer to the date though but I dont see any problem unless I blow something up (hope not :( )

Let me know id like to see the ute run I might race my primer monster aswell. if you want to lighten your interior get a custom solid mount seat rail - stock one is heavy. take out the passenger seat and the airbag Get rid of the tail gate, sports bar and all plastic trimmings that dont need to be there. if you dont like aircon take the compressor out, all the lines, heater core and all the plumping. easy 40kgs just there. before you think about any of it just remember 6LBS = 1HP! so 30 odd kg = 10hp. oh and ditch the tow bar if you got one.

It would weigh a bit even though its alloy and the utes already have a 100kg weight disadvantage to their 4 door cousins. Ive never removed the tail gate on the utes so I cant help you there. should have gone for the alloy tray (they are very ugly though lol)

One thing I noticed when I did my underdrives, it really didnt feel like it pulled any harder but you could tell how quick it revved up that it wasnt how it was previously (revs quicker, speedo moves quicker) Similar feeling to a lightened flywheel.

I know exactly what you mean but problem being it will most likely have to be electoronically driven. To get the twins to work on mechanical linkage youll need the tps to be on one tb and the driven motor on the other one so you have 1 of the sides of each tb free so you can do your linkage there. Problem being with a staggered setup the TPS will have to be on the main throttle body and the also the motor on the main one has to be the driven one. This leaves you no room to setup a mechanical linkage (like you said with springs and stuff) because you have nothing to run it off. Pain in the but? Yep I know :( Driving the second one with a high torque servo and appropriate controller with the right programming might do the trick though. As for my rough idle you wanna know what it was like? unplug the motor on your throttle body and the idle will go skitzo very very very rough, not the occasional caugh, splutter, or misfire. sounds like its running on 2 cylinders. The stalling that was probably just the computer freaking out, tune would prob fix it. The idle when it was working sat on 900rpm it wasnt possible for it to go any lower because the each tb was letting too much air through and the butterfly was already set as far back as possible. also when you start the engine usually in an ideal setup itll rev to 1100-1300 or so then settle. with the twins it would rev to about 2k (wouldnt be good on a cold morning!). ecu tinkering could fix that though. Its possible to get it going definately not out of reach just gotta keep working at it.

That makes sense With my manifold in particular if you looked at it in detail each throttle body is positions perfectly above each bank of 3 cylinders. That I dont see as a problem. If you implement the staged throttle body (similar to the vac secondarys on a carb) then there will definately be phasing issues. the only way to do a secondary would be for it to be fed in the middle of the manifold. I did go through alot with it ill post up in more detail after some rest, im screwed.

The Map sensor does the reading. it reads vacuum and boost. standard map sensor goes up to 1 bar I think that's how the ecu puts its head around things. the ba map sensor also has an integrated temp sensor. When you get the manifold off get pics! I wanna see the inside. Hiddeous as for the vacuum testing I dont have access to the required equipment. if anyone does im happy to put the hard yards in and do the testing.

Edit: Jays RPD are out of business theyve decided to calll it quits and continue it on as a hobby that's not good at all oh dear sad sad day. I just worked it out the surface area of a single 90mm throttle body is 6361mm2 whereas twin 70mm is 7696mm2 so the twin will still outflow the big single by a bit. Might be my next project though.

On another note id like a 90mm throttle body on my NA any ideas? I been thinking about cutting the part where the motor and gears attach on the spare throttle body I got and getting it welded to a 90mm throttle body. suggestions people?

Hehe good stuff glad to here the tape is still there. I did similar to my stock one cut the restrictor off and used carbon fibre to cover the hole (dont you love contacts in the aircraft industry) a few layers of carbon a bit of resin and what do ya know didnt last a week. your special tape works better than the almighty carbon fibre :D that's awesome total I spent about $300 including the silicone and clamps and most of it is hanging around the garage in a sad sad state lol. If you need a hand with it let me know I aint far from you. All you need is those really thin grinding discs for the angle grinder or even better if you have a drop saw with the metal cutting discs like they use in exhaust shops it will be a breeze.

No I didnt have my scanner back then so I couldnt get error codes to see what was going on :( there was no vacuum leaks and I tried it 3 or 4 times and it never worked after I put the extractors on. Id love for that to see it going but lets just say it isnt in my possesion anymore im not allowed to give out too much details but it will be put through its paces I assure you. Lets just say it will be put through its paces by (in my mind) the greatest tuner in the country on naturally aspirated late model engines. If it can happen it will happen! On the other hand if you want to get your own built I recomend Mitch from Jays RPD he did an awesome job on mine and it was flawless. If you wanna be different though go for a 6tb setup : they do those too. youll get it complete ready to fit and all youll have to do is get it tuned

couldnt edit my other post so here are the pics. you can see how beat up my paint work is on the rad support and gaurds. the cars getting a complete color change and while were at it were going to repaint the rad support and do the engine cover in the color of the car. the last pic is of the air intake pipe that goes to the bumper and goes through where the washer bottle used to be. <div class='bbimg'><div class='bbimg'> </div></div><div class='bbimg'><div class='bbimg'> </div></div><div class='bbimg'><div class='bbimg'> </div></div><div class='bbimg'><div class='bbimg'> </div></div>Also I just took off the pipe and the inside of the silicone pipe is a good 10-15 degrees cooler than the stainless. so best thing you could do is the whole lot in silicone.

aluminium is lighter easier to cut and conducts heat more. the aluminium pipe as well as cooling off quicker it will heat up quicker. im not sure which would get hotter really but it probably wouldnt make much of a difference the air isnt in the pipe for long at all especially at WOT. Ill go get pics soon theyll be up in an hour or so. and yer im not running the flex pipe anymore. Al how did the tape hold up on your intake pipe :D?

Sorry to hear Dan. Keep your chin up and get the TIG welder out! what path are you going down for the twin tb? whos going to be building it? are you keeping the stock dual runner? are you customising the nizpro one? whats the plans :D

you may need one piece but youd be able to get away with using the stock flex pipe. on my one now im using a straight piece going from through the openng in the airbox to a pod filter but its just an offcut from one of the 90's ill post a pic up today. youll also need 4 bits of the silicone joiner (1 for the TB, 1 for the first join (that first join is tight very tight) half for the second join half for the third join and another one for the fourth join) youll also need about a dozen hose clamps (I had over 25 hose clamps used in my twin tb setup lol) . if your on a tight budget just go the supercheap one joiner. its light blue like the silicone but its just rubber its only 10 dollars. id be worried about it in boosted applications but in na the rubber should be fine.

Yep ive seen those hoses. Ill give you the run down lol Supercheap $70 for a 45 degree bend ok quality nothing to sneeze at looks like plastic to be honest. Repco $99 90 degree bend the quality is pretty so so. its chrome plated mild steel (I had one of their straight pipes and the coating flaked off after about a year. I got mine off ebay I think ebay links are a no no here so search for 90Deg 3" Polished Stainless Steel Long Leg Mandrel Bend the seller is nahux and that 90 degree polished STAINLESS (not chrome plated rubbish) bend and its only $25 (supercheap can kiss my ass ) . youll need 3x90 degree bends and 1x45 degree bend it wont just fit together perfect either youll need to cut the tails off the 2 first bends youll need to do some cutting, grinding and putting your shoulders into it but its fairly simple I spent $220 on stainless and silicone on that ebay shop you could imagine what that would cost at repco or supercheap. it would be good to do the whole lot in silicone do because it would block the heat a little better.

You know what it might be worth giving spiro a call about it Thank you eMPee a way I was thinking of doing this and I said it to NOSXR was to setup something that got a feed from the tps (they work on a voltage 0-3v I think) there is a motor controller controlling the second throttle body and it gets its signal from the tps so as the voltage from the tps increases the second throttle bodies controller opens it up. the problem is setting up the motor controller to work from the tps im no engineer so its probably a touch out of my league. just an idea.

Lol it wasnt me. Did you see a red XY with MNGREL plates? I was with that car (my brothers) campin near the wash sheds (where I saw your car). there was plenty of nice fords there regardless. with the multiple throttle body ive run them both in parallel, run one on its own using a transistor and also used a mechanical linkage. none of them worked any different. if anything its the computer freaking about the extra air its getting that its not supposed to get. Share the plans its never a bad thing. On my thread on the other forums a member RaceGT was trying to get a twin TB setup on his GT but the ford engineers told him it couldnt be done. he racked their brains for months but in the end he decided on ditching the fly by wire throttle and went for a cable driven throttle I also have all the data and specification sheets for the fly by wire setup too if anyone is interested pm your email address. Dan - Sounds like the best way about it sounds like a nice plan too. im surprised not one of the shops mentioned it to me none of them wanted a bar of it. that's a problem about buying a stock ecu and running a new loom. the loom will cost big dollars and unless you get the ecu with the motor it aint worth the money.