Goeer

I had a Bedford van for work . After a night out I would go park it on the building site, catch a few winks before having a coffee and a few drugs before starting work. That's freedom.

Ok thanks, I will ask my exhaust guy and do some research on the cats. I suppose I am right in saying that the 200 cell cats flow better than the 100 cell. The add did say I had high flow cats, but what they are I don't know. I suppose I will just have to get it on a hoist and see what the guy at the shop says,

If I eliminated the centre box in this system for one would it be legal, and for two, would it be quitter. At the moment my parents wont even ride in my car because its so load. It sound like a supercar just at start up. And to be honest it the loudest car that I have ever owned. It sounds great down low and up high, but in the middle there is a slight drone. The only way to get rid of the drone is to kick it down but that gives my parents a heart attack. Would removing the centre muffler alleviate the drone and possibly make the system quieter or should I get a whole new system when finances permit. And that could be 6 months down the track.

my car is a generation before yours but because I had never owned a sss its new technology to me, and I am loving it. Spun the wheels once in sss in gear one and think I am getting the itch do it every fortnight I do the 70-180 squirt. Tyre expenses here I come. The car cost a fortune to run, it drinks 23 ltrs per 100 ( but the trick is to only do 3000- 4000 per year like me) and then factor in 900 dollars insurance per year tyres brakes and anything that goes bang, but I still think its worth it. My brother was going to buy the mustang because he read that it only uses 14 litres per 100km. What the wanker did not realise that was the average of highway urban and stop and start. when they do the fuel usage test half of the time is spent with the car sitting and just idling, that's how they get the average down to 14. But when I pointed out that the car uses 20 ltrs per 100 in urban driving he ran for the nearest Mitsubishi dealer and put a stupid lancer. If you want enjoyment from a car, you have to pay for it, simple as that. I don't think a lancer that has not been updated for 14 years is going to be a thrill to drive.

I did not get a lot of information when I bought the car other than it was tuned at bluepower in Victoria, and the auto was tuned as well. The car has only done 3000 klm with the blower so I figure the engine has plenty of life left to give. I am still yet to go stupid in it, burnout wise, mainly because the tyres are brand new and worth 300 bucks each. But I am dying to flick it over to sss and leave it in first and see what she can do. I know what she can do from 70- 180 and by my calculations she gets there in spot on 7 seconds. Not sure if that's great or not, but it sure does get my heart pumping. I don't know if it is a dangerous diff or a safe diff, but worse case scenario if it is dangerous I could get it reconditioned for 3000 fitted.I have not had it looked at since I bought the car, maybe I should have, because the engine oil change was 5000 over due. I should get a complete flush and service and find out what kind of pump the box is running. I have heard the au pumps have a lot more flow, so who knows. But the btr for the gt was upgraded over the turbo box at that time because of the extra torque they produced. ba xr6t stock torque was 450nm and gt stock torque was 520. But what the upgrade actually involved and if it was really beneficial is any anybody's guess. My plan is to start driving it more harshly, after all I didn't buy this car to drive like a grandpa. If it breaks it breaks. I will just put it of the road and drive my au until financers permit me buying the 3000 reconditioned box fitted.

It took me a while to work out that fords were better. Through misfortune with woman and gambling, and stupidity with drugs and alcohol I had become nearly penniless and needed a car. I bought an AU 6cyl for 800. I quickly learnt that the au was a great car, smooth in every department. I had never owned a v6, I could tell they were crap just from been a passenger. I have owned vt 5.7 and vz 5.7 and they are great engines, but the rest of the car leaves a lot to be desired. (fe2 way to firm, box, leaky main seal on both) I think the gen 3 is 1 second faster to 100 than the boss 290, so when my s/c ba gt came up for sale, I thought I could have the best of both worlds,and I was right. I think the gt suspension is a great compromise between soft and firm. So there lies my story from red to blue.

I agree with you guys, I do like it, shame its a 4 speed. Anyway, I still think its a better box than anything Expensive Daewoo had up until the end of BA series 2. I don't know what there VE and newer boxes are like but I have owned 2 older Expensive Daewoo v8's and I thought those boxes sucked. They didn't know what to do half the time.

That's disappointing to hear. I could of bought a g6et with only 70k on the clock for 6 grand less than my s/c Ba with 100k on the clock. ( does have 7000k worth of factory extras though ) Oh well, I always wanted a supercharged v8 and now I guess I have one. 333kw is enough to get me into plenty of trouble anyway. I like how in drive I cant even feel the shifts, but when self shifting its like driving a totally different car.

Could anyone help with my box concerns. I currently have 333 kw at the wheels of my s/c 4 speed GT, and would like to boost that by 100 kw. I am wondering can the 4 speed be reliable at these figures. I have read that I could put a larger oil pump on the box, but have decided I don't need a cooler since I don't tow and only do 3000 kms per year in the GT. I figure I am killing two birds with one stone by replacing the radiator every ten years (milkshake, cleaner cooler engine block ) than buying a bypass cooler. I also don't thrash the car, but do go WOT once a fortnight, for about 7 seconds. The car only drives at highway speeds about 4 times a year. I also have learnt that the 4 speed did get strengthened a little bit for the GT to handle the extra 50nm it had over the turbo at the time. By how much and whether it really matters who knows ? I am also wondering if self shifting puts extra strain on the auto. I read somewhere on this forum that hard shifting is good for the box, but I am having a hard time believing that. Ps. Mine was tuned for harder shifts by Bluepower when the s/c was installed.

I have only ever ridden dirt bikes, and that was only about twenty times on dirt, funny enough, and nearly decapitated my self on a fence wire the last time. I have hade my share of car accidents, and would be dead if they were bike accidents, needless to say, that's why I don't have the nerve to ride motorbikes. I have always admired them for there looks and sheer power. That silver one you have pictured was way before its time in my opinion. There was nothing like it when it came out in the 80's.

Thanks guys for putting my mind at ease. I didn't want to look like a fool asking my mechanic another stupid question.

Since I bought my car the stock oil pressure gauge on my ba gt has always been very high and very constant. In fact it almost seemed stuck. After doing 1000 klms with the needle acting like this, I had an oil change, engine flush and new radiator fitted, even though the car has only done 100k. (The milk shake stories scarred the hell out of me ) Anyway, since I had the work done, the gauge now fluctuates fairly wildly. Less than half while idling, then it raises while my speed does, and drops as my speed drops. This worries me a little bit, because before I had the service, the gauge indicated that I had high oil pressure all the time. And when I got the RAA (RAQ in other states I think ) for a flat battery, I pointed to the high reading on the gauge and he said that high oil pressure is a good thing. Does anybody have a clue to why this could be happening. Is it normal to have a needle that moves a lot ? Did the needle become unstuck ? Did the mechanic use the wrong oil ? ( My whole family have used this guy for over thirty years ) My manual says my car needs very thin 0W oil. Do mechanics know what each car manual stipulates or do they buy in bulk and use the same oil for every car they service ? Maybe I am just worrying to much ?

I was just testing things out, that is the first time I have ever quoted more than one person at a time ever in my life, and feel quite proud of my self. Just hope I can do it again sometime.

Why the fck cant we recirculate air with out the ac.

do ac have a separate belt. My car only runs a 8 rib pulley system. It is the only belt that is utilized. I am confused , because if I turn off AC the one big serpentine belt keeps running as normal. Does this mean that if I turn off ac, the car is still pulling the same horsepower with, or without ac. PS I am a newbe, and am beginning to wonder is a stock g6et would of been a better purchase.

Icc is important, but at the moment I think there are more pressing answers that need answering. I do thank you guys for allowing me to continue with my agenda with trying to find answers for what I believe in.

I have a BA series 2 Ghia ICC in my GT. Everything is working fine, but I am wondering why does the recycle function on the AC only work when the AC is on. Its annoying when stinky fkn diesel fumes enter my cabin. Every other car I have had, the recycle function was not dependant on the AC been on. Is it a stupid fkn idea, or not working correctly ?? Also, the manual says, "When AC is on, it will switch between cycling outside and inside air periodically" Don't need help with this one. I know that is a stupid fkn idea.

I feel your pain, but stay away from caryards, feels like the sharks are circling every time I step into one. Things are really tuff at used car lots, who knows what tricks they pull to get a few more dollars on a sale. If you want history you cant beat buying private from a one or second owner.

When launching an automatic car, should I be using traction control or no traction control, And what is the best way to launch an auto.

And to go with the pony badge, the bloody thing was purple. That's a double whammy no, no, in my book.

Not wrong, I have a Whipple supercharged BA GT on 8 psi with 17000 dollars of mods, and only getting 330 rwkw. (I mentioned in an earlier post it was a BF, turns out its a BA ) Mine averages 24 litres per 100 km. On a highway it's only 12 litres per 100. That's with a couple of short squirts per day. What are you guys averaging in your turbos. Not that I am complaining about fuel usage, its what one would expect with a modded v8.

You were right, after measuring, the exhaust turned out to be 2.5 inches and not the 2 inches as mentioned in the advertisement.

Yep, that's it. Come to think of it, why the hell would my pipes be 2 inch when I am fairly sure factory stock pipes are 2 inch. Why would the previous owner bother replacing the factory stainless system for the same or maybe even smaller diameter mild steel pipes. Don't make sense. That's what the advertisement said. But yes I will measure it tomorrow, bit cold outside tonight in Adelaide. I will clamp a clamp onto one of the pipes then measure the gap. Thanks for the info, although it nearly gave me a headache. I did a search last night on google but couldn't find anything as straight forward as your post. Thanks again.

I am only talking kw at the engine. I think I would be happy with that since I don't want to fry my engine. Not sure what the question mark is for. I didn't mention the word twin, I thought a twin system meant that the exhaust exited the rear on both sides of the car. With my car it only exits on the drivers side. There is a muffler with twin tips. This is my first car with mods, I am not up with the correct terminology, and it does not help that I am not very mechanically minded.

I don't own a T but do own a current model 2.4 ltr Whipple Supercharger running only 8psi with a conservative tune, on a BF GT. Hope that gives me some gred with you Turbo guys. Anyway, car currently has Genie high flow extractors and cats. with xforce cat back 2 inch sports system. Wold the current 2 inch cat back system be ok after a pulley upgrade to 500kw or would a 2.5 or a 3 system be the way to go. Currently have two 2 inch pipes running side by side with a muffler about one metre away from the cats, and another muffler at the back with twin tips.