kenna802

Hope its not something more sinister like a wheel let go.

The tuner I have will not push a ba past 13 pound as he has said that's his limit for longevity and anything over that will be a ticking time bomb. He has got 1 car at 400hp that has done over 400 thou and has been running that for many many years (running original diff and transmission)

Apologies, this was done over a few days. Carried out a filter change and oil on the BTF transmission, Carried out a Oil change on the Diff (Found the large 28mm fill nut to be finger tight....) Went to get a retune on the mods that I had previously carried out a few posts up. Got a phone call from the tuner saying the car is over boosting and unable to get the numbers back down to where he is happy with. Apparently with the work that I did installing the under battery intake and Plazmaman front facing plenum with 3inch pipework to the plenum the car now hits 17psi instead of 13psi in which it was originally tuned. They have advised I need an external wastegate to get the boost back down to where its safe. Live and learn I guess

I gave the Duragloss a crack and for the price point if it you cant go wrong.

from this https://imgur.com/a/mx4EDyC to this https://imgur.com/a/G5yMgtF

Just to reply to all, I received the the ecu back and plugged it back in and problem is resolved. About 2 days later I started having issues with the key remote with it not working. Ended up being the BCM had failed in that part of the unit. I replaced it and managed to code it successfully and seems to be running fine. ..... Touch wood.

Thanks for your reply, I laughed myself when I saw how long I had been a member for and made my first post. I joined up when I had my first xr6 turbo however never ran into any issues that required asking for help. There are no issues with fuel pressure or plugs. The car does run longer with the bonnet up opposed to having it shut. No fault codes present either. I thought the same thing that maybe it was 2 separate issues however after going through the starter circuit I ruled that out. Battery voltage is 14.4V and Cranking amps are fine. After speaking to my tuner and looking online the older PCM's seem susceptible to this sort of fault. They are over 23 years old nowadays so I am pretty certain that this is the most likely fault. I have found a company that can repair the PCM and retain the tunes etc depending on the fault for about $1600. Fingers crossed this works.

Hi All, I believe my PCM is giving up as when the engine bay gets warm I start getting intermittent drop outs and issues. The car in question is a 2003 BA Turbo Auto. These were minor at first, however it is now turning into rough idle and loss of power and then the engine stalls. When I attempt to restart I turn the key to start and the car does not turn over. Battery voltage while car is running is 14.4V. No Fault codes on a scanner and I have traced the wiring from fuel relay to starter with no issues. That's the history anyways. What are my options in regards to trying not spend a huge amount of cash on this? Buying the car a year ago I spent a considerable sum on performance mods on the car after purchase and really don't want to through another huge amount of cash into it. Also trying to sell a car that has computer issues and not really running would also cause a hefty loss. My only real thought at this point of time is get a remanufactured PCM for just under 3k and purchase a PCM license and reader to pull the tunes off of my PCM and put onto the new PCM. If anyone has better ideas, please do tell. Cheers All