rollex

Exactly my point, is the correct way not to tune the sd maps correctly?

Ok I'm sure it will be easy to get mixtures correct just by changing them. Don't think I'll have time to play again for at least 2 weeks though. Jetturbo do you time via slopes these days? Cheers

Turbo those values are exactly what I calculated. I thought changing slopes was the wrong way to go about the tuning?

I see so the SD maps do need to be tweaked, I thought unless you made substantial modifications they were ok but it appears I misread. I'd rather alter the SD maps then just tweak injector slopes.

I put the entire base table to 0.85 to just confirm the commanded AFR is going to match and just drove it with very light throttle. I'm not actually going to leave it like that I just want to get the AFR to match. What I want to know is why am I reading 16:1 with a commanded lambda of 0.85 with O2 feedback disabled. If the injector data is correct what else needs touching for it to match?

Plugged everything in, disabled long term and short term trims. It is lean at 16:1 everywhere. How do I check what lambda is being commanded in livelink? Can't find anything that looks like commanded lambda. I've set base fuel map to 0.85 everywhere, Any ideas where you would start? Attached the tune if people have time https://www.dropbox.com/s/5h0hw0erti4rayh/Base%20Tune%20-%20Stock%20boost%20map%2025-8-15.hpt?dl=0 edit: Used VCM scanner instead and it shows it is commanding 1.00 lambda for some reason

Walbro 460L/hr I think, either way it is f*cking noisy! Ok well I'm going to plug the data in and see how the ratios look with closed loop disabled, will then enable it and see what the trims look like. Just logged the heinrich tune vs the SCT. The one heinrich did runs about 18:1 on deaccel so pops, the SCT one runs 15:1 Anyway see how I go cheers.

I haven't actually downloaded that data yet, I wanted to make sure I was on the right track before wasting time. Currently I'm just working out what I will be using as my "base" and working onwards from there. I'll be pulling a fairly massive amount of timing out until I have some knock ears, I also won't be doing any on boost runs as I don't fancy pulling the motor out. Would you say dropping another 5 degrees out of all the upper columns (0.9 upwards) should be safe for now? Here is the ignition map from a stock ECU at the top, and the "stock" one I have. The AFR correction timing map has had about 8 degrees added to the richer AFR column at high rpm. Does this add or subtract timing? (can view the file in an earlier post if you are curious). I have 4" dump with advance cat (tiny thing that does nothing), exforce centre and stock rear and a stock waste gate with the stage 2 process west intercooler. Installed the wideband about 1m from the turbo exit just after the curve at the bottom. I know why he has done it, however with known good data why not just use it and adjust the base fuel map. Surely that would be less work and it is definitely less of a "hack" method of doing so. The "stock" tune backfires and pops like hell where as the current SCT one doesn't at all.

BF MK2, I've compared my "stock" heinrich file (extracted via XCAL4 return to stock function) to other Mk2 stock files from the repository (both auto and manual). I then carefully looked at the differences between my file and various stock files to understand what he had modified. It appears almost nothing was changed other than injector data, base fuel map, boost control, 1 ignition map and knock retard settings.

Ok so I have my wideband installed and operating. Reads about ~14.7 - 15:1 at idle and the mixtures seem ball park from the logs I've done. Any tests people recommend for ensuring it is reading accurate? I've done a calibration and checked the voltage out of my unit with a calibrated Fluke multimeter, the XCAL logs about ~0.05v lower than it reads which I can account for. ~0.1 AFR lower than it should be which is probably well within its accuracy. Next step is I'm going to plug in ID1000 data into my "stock" tune which I've compared to various other stock tunes. The only things that were changed (previous heinrich tune) is less ignition timing, knock retard, boost control and injector slopes. I've set all of these back to stock (except ignition). The injector data (ID1000) spreadsheet has inputs for base fuel pressure. According to the workshop manual the fuel pressure should be 400 kPa which is 58 psi. Plugging this into the spread sheet gives the following numbers: Breakpoint 0.000027 lb/cyc Hi Slope 114.374 lb/h Lo Slope 126.07 lb/h Min pulse width 0.272 ms Does this look correct? Also could someone explain the offset/flowrate vs pressure multipliers? The spreadsheet says they should all be 1. I'm guessing you would utilise these if your injectors did not have a linear flow rate? The existing data that the previous tuner put in makes no sense, looks like they just randomly adjusted the low and high slopes then set the base fuel map to a really lean number??? They left the offset vs voltage and pressure stock as well despite being told all the data was on IDs website. http://injectordynamics.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/08/ID1000-Ford-Characterization-Tables-8-6-14.xls

No I definitely do appreciate the advice I was just taking the piss at your "mind blown" lol

you ever heard of bedside manner? : p Ralph Wiggum, on 21 Sept 2015 - 11:48 AM, said: A knocksense MS module feeding into the MVPI would be my choice for a budget knock detection arrangement. It can also drive a warning LED. But it has the same basic issue as all the cheaper version, no built in signal condition or rpm compensation. But better than a piece of tube IMHO http://www.viatrack.ca/ What product do you use ralph?

The SCT doesn't have knock logging currently either I don't believe? Other than looking at the spark adder how will you know from this? Like said above apparently it detects phantom knock anyway.

I don't think any of us do this for anything other than a hobby. $1000 for a professional knock detection solution is just a waste of money for something I would do in my spare time when I can hook up headphones to the stock sensors/a microphone or use det cans. You do this for money so you easily recover that money and not only that you have a reputation to protect. Also if you pop a motor it isn't yours, we are all tuning our own cars so we can make the call.

Apparently the hose makes a huge difference. You need a really hard inflexible piece of tubing otherwise it absorbs the sound. What did you use?

The above is the official ford stuff which is brilliant if you have a BF, unsure if there are many similarities between the two.

Put it through the drivers side kick panel, just opened the grommet up a bit and taped it up after. Managed to snap my bonnet release taking the panel off though which is annoying, hopefully super glue will solve that one. Used the blue connector for power

So I picked up a WBO2 2J9 wideband kit with a 4.9 bosch sensor. What do people recommend to avoid noise when installing a permanent wideband? I'm thinking I'll get power from the aux audio plug behind the fuse box (blue plug) and use the ground supplied with the plug and also bolt the ground to the floor. For the narrowband simulation (if I ever play with it) I'll use a separate ground from the ECU for those two pins. Also to feed the new wideband through the firewall is going behind the inner guard and one of those grommets the best place or is there a better grommet to use in the engine bay, lots of people seem to use the manual clutch point but I have a manual so that is out. Recommendations?

Found all of the factory workshop manuals for the BA and BF here that have been ripped from the Ford website. https://mega.co.nz/#F!loVQwT5D!a_eVD1oUflY1DMd1Gq_MRw

Found this for people, has BF workshop manual and a few others https://mega.nz/#F!loVQwT5D!a_eVD1oUflY1DMd1Gq_MRw

Anyone got a BF MkII workshop manual?

From what I've been reading a lot of people rave about the plastic tube connected to ear protectors which gets the sound from a crimped piece of copper pipe bolted to the fuel rail/block. I've only ever used headphones with a microphone (I always borrowed them and no longer have access) which worked well but they were a crude home setup. Would run the sound into a laptop and do a fast fourier transform to pin point knock and adjust a DIY filter to that frequency though most of the time simply listening to the audio was good enough. Anyone here ever used the plastic tube and ear protector setup? I've seen lots of anedoctal reports saying they give better results than a lot of electronic setups, obviously it makes it harder to log as you have to guess where you heard the knock though. Also I picked up a WBO2 2J9 wideband kit with a 4.9 bosch sensor. What do people recommend to avoid noise when installing a permanent wideband? I'm thinking I'll get power from the aux audio plug behind the fuse box (blue plug) and use the ground supplied with the plug and also bolt the ground to the floor. For the narrowband simulation (if I ever play with it) I'll use a separate ground from the ECU for those two pins. Also to feed the new wideband through the firewall is going behind the inner guard and one of those grommets the best place or is there a better grommet to use in the engine bay, lots of people seem to use the manual clutch point but I have a manual so that is out. Recommendations?

Obviously proper knock ears are the way to go, what I was asking is can you get a good indication from the stock system and do many people rely on using it?

Double post

Ok so how do you guys detect knock,do you simply look at the spark adder and if it is pulling timing you assume it is knocking? Have any of you bought knock detection set-ups or just used primitive microphone and ear phone set-ups? Is simply logging the spark adder a safe enough way to tune these cars?