dutchy351

Hey guys Recently bought a Yella Terra flex plate I'm curious if anyone can shed some light on wether I'll need a balance or not after changing over from the standard flex plate. Any clue if they're internally or externally balanced?

I tried search but found nothing in this specific issue, hense the full thread.

Hey guys I'm curious about catch can setups and trying to work out the best option to go for. From what I see the most common option that people use is removing the pcv valve and running a hose directly to the catch can, and then running a hose from the front rocker cover breather to the catch can and venting catch can to atmosphere via a small air filter. Now while this seems to be the most common setup I've seen I have recently been told that this setup can cause extra issues in the way of pushing seals (normally rear main) out fairly often and causing oil leaks, but that's the first time I had ever heard it. Can anyone comment on this? Any suggestions on the best possible setup to go for?

Hey guys Anyone had any experience with a Bosch bxf1262a alternator for a ba xr6T? These seem to be a slight upgrade from the standard alternator with 120a rating but I dunno if the extra 10a would even make a difference. Does anyone know of any higher amp alternators that would fit this car? I've searched and found bugger all.

Hey guys, sorry if this is in the wrong place. I keep running into a couple of error codes on my 05 xr6t, 2 of which are p0238 and p1227 I'm assuming those 2 are based on the fact that I have an eboost street installed so the car can't really read boost and the actuator is not plugged in. The other that keeps popping up is p1507, It clear the code, it keeps popping back up. Recently it has started stalling on me on occasion when at idle, 99% of the time it's just after the car starts, it will kick over start then die, today it happened to the misses in the middle of traffic. I'm starting to think faulty tps but curious if anyone has had the issue before and can shed some light on it.

Anybody with a c4 conversion into ba XR6 turbo ever had this issue with gears showing up on the dash and the car running pretty average when coasting? I had the car tuned after the conversion was done and the thing ran like a dream, no gears showing on the dash of anything but the traction control would cut out under hard acceleration. I did some research online and found people had this issue when the traction was not tuned for the new power (spoke to the tuner and he said he didn't touch it and never does) I asked him to fix it (the wife drives the car also). We went back in for a touch up tune and he looked at the traction at the same time. When. I went to pick the car up he said that he changed the setting on the traction from letting it spin from 60kmh to 120kmh. Now I'm no tuner but it sounded a little odd to me, ever since getting it back I have had this issue and the traction still turns off under hard acceleration and wont turn back on until the car is turned off. It's fine on throttle but once I get off it the car almost sounds like a truck slowing down (hard to explain) and the revs seem to go up and down while coasting. Edit: forgot to mention, if I take my foot off the accelerator the gears will disappear momentarily and then when the foot goes back on they will come back. The car will always read reverse correctly though, I'm putting that down to the fact that the reverse lights are wired to the micro switch on my ratchet shifter.

So after a bit of reading it seems that you were right given the codes that came up. From what I can understand the ETC values are set incorrect and the car is shutting down the ETC with excessive wheel spin rather than correcting the vehicle, I'm guessing that this can also be the reason for the car to snap the throttle body closed when shifting gears. I noticed that it only does this after the ETC is stuck off from excessive wheel spin. Atleast I hope this is correct

Hmmmm. I have a 12psi turbo smart actuator hooked in, and they did a port and flapper mod on the turbo prior to the tune. Well the aftermarket boost controller has already being ordered so I guess there's no going back from that. Edit - forgot to mention while looking over the car yesterday I found one of the hoses from the underside of the process west plenum was not hooked up, God knows if it was like this while they were tuning. Could this have attributed to the overboost issue they were running into? Also for curiosities sake I hooked up my OBD2 scanner and checked for fault codes. Here's what came up P0801 (reverse inhibitor control circuit) P2105 (throttle actuator control system - forced engine shutdown) P1507 (idle air control under speed error) I'm guessing the P0801 is related to the c4 given the fact that it can't read anything from the standard box anymore, the other 2 seem to be linked perhaps. Shed any light on it? I really appreciate the help man.

Thanks for the info man. I have to go back to them to touch up my tune anyway as they ran into some boost issues with the standard solenoid not coping with anything over 14psi and overboosting. I'll install an aftermarket controller and head back to them.

Empire mechanical and racing in Sydney. Which issue are you referring to? The TC or the fact that it's acting like I'm getting off the throttle? To explain that correctly my foot is still flat to the floor and I hear the bov activate then it's boosting again in second. The issue doesn't seem to occur with the 2-3 shift

Hi guys A few questions. I have just had my 05 mkii xr6t tuned after a large round of mods (process west 2.5 intercooler kit, 3 speed auto c4 trans, xforce dual 2.5" exhaust, nizpro 72lb injectors, process west surge tank) I have run into an issue where the traction control is turning itself off under WOT acceleration and wont turn off until I turn the car off and back on. I'm not sure what this could be attributed to. The other issue that I'm running into is again on WOT from the 1-2 shift the car is acting like I have jumped off the accelerator and back on again, it doesn't seem to do it if I'm putting around or under semi hard acceleration. Anyone got any ideas?

Hey guys, Curious if anyone knows the size of the adaptor that bolts into the turbo that comes with the earls inline oil filter kits? Also curious if it this piece is a restrictor at all? Reason I ask is that after taking my turbo off for a few weeks I have put it back on and that adaptor is missing (gnomes I tell ya) so I need to chase up a replacement.

So I ran some radiant through the cooling systems today and it seemed to work a treat, first time I ran it through a decent amount of sh*t came out, second time it was barely anything. The problem I now face is it seems like the car is overheating. First flush through I removed the thermostat (which was f##ked from the atf) and ran the car up to temp roughly half way between a quarter and half on the gauge and everything seemed sweet. Dropped the fluid and waiting for the block to cool before running more radiant and water through it. This time the car got slightly warmer and was showing very close to half on the guage, just as I was about to shut the car down water started spewing out of the header tank (I had left the cap off same as first time) I also noticed that I hadn't put the thermo fans back in the car. But the temp guage was reading just below half which seemed fine to me My question is, could this be due to the fact that I have no thermostat? Could it be the fact that I had straight water and radiant in the car? Air in the system? I'm at a loss as the guage was reading fine.

Ok so I'm guessing I premix this in some water first? Run it through like a regular flush? My biggest concern is getting all the gunk out of the cooling system in the block, I've bought a complete new hose kit to replace all the hoses. How do I know the block is clean? Run a hose through it? Sorry if they seem like stupid questions but I've never had to flush a cooling system before.

Hey guys I have ATF fluid in my coolant. Now I've replaced the radiator and dropped what I can of it, run a radiator flush through it which has removed a decent amount of the crud out of the system but it seems there's still a ton in there (I pulled some hoses to check and there's alot of deposits that seem like it'll be a pain to remove) I'm curious if anyone has any ideas on how to remove the rest? I've read people using dishwashing detergent through it but I'm unsure of the idea. Also while running the first flush the temp seemed fine, however after around 20 mins or so the temp gauge was around a quarter and I start to hear a few high pitch squeals coming from the cap on the header tank, it then starts to spit out small amounts of water. It seemed like the car was overheating a bit but didn't seem like it was too hot and the temp gauge was reading fine. Any ideas on that? Ps: I know the gearbox has likely got coolant in there, it's no big hassle as the box is being replaced in a few weeks anyway.

Hi guys Hopefully this is in the right section. I'm putting a c4 behind my ba xr6 turbo in the next few weeks and I'm wondering if anyone can shed some light on wiring. Where do I tap in the wiring for my neutral safety and reverse lights?