kazuhiko

There might be a turkey stuck under there... but yea, at 3 seconds, its definately knocking Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk

So some further info on the car. I bought it standard, no mods at all. I put on a xr8 intake pretty quickly. Within the first month of thinking it was my old RX7, I burned out what was already a worn clutch. So I threw in a Malwood clutch with further mods in mind. The car has 78000km on the clock. Now the reason I think it is the drive shaft is because my brothers R31 back in the day had some sort of a driveshaft issue because it had a hard life on the streets and track. His sounded similar to this, but a lot more violent and was under any kind of load. As I said, as far as I can tell, with various street testing, it only happens in first gear below 20kmhr giving it throttle. It sounds like its coming from directly under the centre console. I can also clearly feel it. In the spirit of things, I have recorded it and its attached below. Its doing my head in and im not going to drive the car anymore incase it makes whatever the problem may be, whether it is actually bad or notm until I get it checked out. Being the long weekend, its doing my head in MORE! Have a listen, turn the speakers up!

to be honest I have no idea, that why im on here trying to get some sort of idea on what it may be

Hey Guys, Got a Fg Sedan manual. Recently noticed a knocking coming from under the car, wondering if you guys have an idea of what it is. So the story goes, it only happens when taking off in first, only happens below 2krpm, I can feel it like is under the centre console ( I always have my arm resting on it). It doesnt happen in any other gear and doesnt happen in any other rev range sofar. its 5-6 real quick thuds and its only just started happening in the last few days. Any ideas of what im looking at?

my manual fg did this after I disconnected my battery and then reconnected it. I found that when I saw it and started the car straight away, the aircon pump wouldnt engage, meaning No air-con mid summer. I figured out that when you see this message, dont start the car, turn the ignition back to off and then start the car and it seemed to clear the problem and the aircon started working fine again... fords...

I came from an fc rx7 and now have a FGT. I'll just put it this way. If mazda built a new turbo model of the rx7, I would drive my car into a lake, walk to mazda with the insurance money and hug the salesman before I drove out the dealer with my new ride.

Yeah I basically wanna make the figures as easy as possible with support mods, no change to the huffer unless its necessary Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk

So im limited to a stepped cooler then. Ive been reading around and opinions vary, you have a great rep ratter so which would you reccomend of the two? or is it a case of same same but different and either will do it.. and will the stepped items be sufficient to keep consistent temps? If I was to cut the front up to fit a bigger unit, can that easily fixed for a RWC or is it long exercise?

Brilliant, it was the speed alert. Im new to fords, atleast now I know the keys have customised settings, thanks heaps Tab.

Hey guys, Im looking at taking a stab at joing the club and ive been reading up on the mods. Ive always gone intake and exhaust on my turbo cars, im just new to the fords. Ive got a FG xr6t manual and its stock except for XR8 intake/kn air filter and a malwood 3+ clutch and short shift. I want the engine bay to look as factory as possible so im most likely sticking to this intake. Which is the most reccomended turbo back exhaust? ive been looking at xforce and a few others. Just wondering which one is ideal and has the best cat and isnt going to hang real low beneath the car. FMIC - So ive been looking at kits like PW, PWR stepped and the nizpros. Im looking to avoid any cutting of bars and reo etc, which of these brands will keep the temps down the best? or should I get something a bit bigger that will require a little cutting so that I can easily maintain the power? Is bigger injectors necessary? if so, how badly is it going to effect the fuel economy? because im sitting around 11.8 with the occasional boot to the floor at the moment and is it a must on a bigger pump and maybe a surge tank? Will these mods along with a custom tune and probably an actuator spring going to get me there or close enough? I dont want a race car, I want day to day driveability and I tow my roadbike around to track days, so a bit more torque wouldnt hurt. I know opinions get a bit heated around FMIC's and what not, so just some simple opinions appreciated. Joe.

maybe... its just annoying as crap that the S is up top, doesnt seem to go away.

Hey guys, So I bought my manual FG xr6t second hand and it came with two keys.. Heres the weird thing, I grabbed the key I dont usually use to drive to the gym as it doesnt have all the house keys on it and its easier to carry, as soon as I hit the road I noticed that there was a S in a circle at the top of the digi part of the cluster. Never seen that before, and all my setting for which details such as range, digital speed etc were different. I figured it would go away when I start the car again, so after the gym I checked and it was stil there... When I go home I grabbed my usual key and the S was gone and all my settings were as usual.... whats the go? is it as simple as the second key is coded as the 'S'pare? Joe

Mods delete - Took a gamble, got the results I wanted, no further advice needed.

Hey guys, I have a manual FG XR6T which is stock except for the xr8 intake I have on it. Currently not making any flutter at all which I do but also dont like. Ive been reading other posts regarding bovs etc and theyre all a bit vague in the areas im wondering and then its all random comments. I have seen the posts about blocking the the intake hole with a stopper and then fitting an oil breather type of filter on the cooler piping line. Heres what im wondering, it is necessary to put a filter on the intercooler pipe side or can I just rubber stop that too? do I leave the bov attached and put the air filter on the bov side that is supposed to attach to the intake or do I take the bov completely off? I was thinking of removing the bov completely, If I block the intake and cooler holes, I was going to just plug up the vaccum line that connects to it and tuck it away. With the two holes and the line blocked up, is this going to harm the car at all? im not expecting power gains or anything like that, just wouldnt mind a little flutter when backing off boost. Never had issues with this before, as my last car had a solid intake pipe with no AFM and no sort of bov and it had that 'dos' sound. Any help appreciated. Joe.

Just an update guys, had the O3+ combined with a mal wood short shift in my 10' FG XR6T for a few days now. One word pretty much sums it up, Awesome. The clutch has great feel and the weight of it is great. The short shift works a treat too, the throws are short, the box just feels tight and 99% less notchy than standard. I would highly reccomend either and or both these items to anyone that's thinking of getting em. Just a heads up. Joe.