Serangan

Disconnected the electronic boost controller and took it for a spin. Still hitting 17psi, exactly the same as with the controller hooked up. What is wrong with this car. It used to work and hold 15psi then it just stopped doing it.

Sure does. I've seen your method of advice on hp tuners forum and must say I do like it. Hopefully touch up tune on Tuesday will ensure everything is set right and is a happy engine

So adjusted the preload and turbo back on today. Took into account what you said jet and its currently sitting a roughly 1.5mm preload. Took it for a spin and its holding the boost at 17psi using the boost controller. Didn't hook it straight up. That can be tomorrows job But most importantly it isn't cutting like it was before and isn't spiking! so seems to be better

No harm. Didn't mean for that to come across is a nasty way

Im merely stating a fact. I've read your tuning thread and do understand that you know what you're doing. But 2mm is a start and is a lot less preload than it originally had

^^ Ill be sure to tell my tuner this!! turbosmart manual says 2mm preload

Cheers guys. I won't worry about not being able to move it by hand then... I did check the preload while I had it off (still do actually) and it was set on a lot harder than what was suggested on a topic on this site, can't find it anymore. But it suggested having it 3 full turns on. This has reduced the preload now - yes I understand ill need a retune for this. But this unfortunately doesn't explain why it randomly started over boosting

Hi Guys, I need of a bit of help here. First up, car is tune for this actuator. Actuator is a Turbo Smart IWG75 with a 12 pound spring. Was running at 15 psi of boost for a few months, then it's started boost cutting at 20+ psi. In an attempt to find out what is wrong, I tried bypassing the stock electronic boost controller and expected to see roughly 12psi of boost but I didn't, it kept boosting till the gauge hit 20psi and then the ecu cut in and went into a limp mode. Skipping forward. Today I took the turbo out to see what if the waste gate actuator is at fault. Turns out I can't move it by hand, not sure if this is normal or not? When I connect a hand pump to it, it moves. Following this I connected it to a bike pump and set the pressure to 5psi, actuator moved. Tried again at 12psi moved further but wasn't fully extended. Kept upping the pressure up by 2psi until it reached the max extent, turned out to max out at 22psi. Is this normal? Shouldn't it be fully extended by 12psi? Thanks

Works well. Was easy to installed and the display is easily visible during the day. Not much more I can say about it really, apart form its nice knowing what afr the cars at under WOT, so I can see if something has gone wrong.

So... New intake gasket on - checkNew process west cross over pipe installed - checkNew process west intake pipe installed - checkRetune Monday to suit new intake and such - checkRedone Carpc wiring (neater) - checkInstalled Wideband gauge and sensor - checkDiff oil change - checkGearbox oil change - checkEngine oil change - checkSo from all this I accidentally found myself paying the entry fee for the Tasmanian Powercrusie event in 2 weeks. This will be fun.

Put it all back together today. New intake gasket, fuel pressure regulator and serpentine belt. Also re-ran some wiring while I had easy access and installed new process west cross over pipe. much happier with it now.

Took the inlet manifold off, found most of the bolts were loose and the gasket came out in 4 pieces... Getting the wiring loom out of the way was a massive pain for sure! Also got pictures of the inlet side and looks pretty good for a car with 220k on it. Inlet to the 3rd cylinder

I knew I'd seen that layout before, just couldn't remember the name. Cheers

What operating system is that Spyathe?

Did some towing. New project repping the postie bike

^lol^ Relocated the battery back to stock side cause new intake. Also put new bov on. And replaced a coil ... She cookda Engine bay as it stands now Stock Airbox does nothing but I had it lying around. And looks better with the gap filled

Mine came with the car, but I like the looks of that one you linked, has the mat going over the gauges, hides them a bit.

Installed new process west Intake and innovate wideband. Then had a heart attack at the price of triple gauges. Cause pictures Old Intake New awesome one And Wideband

new things!!

haha none of that. I kept finding stuff in the car from previous owners. and after 200k the carpet wasn't looking the best around the seats, and I just got carried away. Found that the insulation under the drivers feet was soaking wet for some reason, so aired that out also. And enabled me to re do the wiring for the reversing camera to come up the middle instead of the sides.

Took the interior apart and put back together. Gained $20 in coins! And cleaned all the hard to get to places

ha I just put on 'standard' new wiper blades. these frameless ones look interesting might consider it next time...

They look like standard brake rotors with brembo logo - but they do look like they're compatible with standard xr brake setup Personally I'd go with DBA t2 or t3, I've got t3 on the front and t2 on the rear and it's amazingly better. edit, that's assuming you have the stock brake setup (298mm front rotors), I.e. the premium brake option wasn't chosen when the vehicle was bought.

Car is going sweet now, no issues with fueling, trimming nicely and using much less fuel than it used to. Daily use has caused it to drop down to 13.1 l/100 (running united 98 which is 10% ethanol blend). Just have another question. I was looking through the tune file again and I've noticed the indicated engine torque table hasn't been altered and has also had the torque module switch disabled (and corresponding tables set to zero). My (limited) understanding of this is that they're used for traction control? In which case I think they should be re enabled? I've derived a new table for the engine torque, using my torque graph to find the full load torque and reduction multipliers to work out the rest but wondering if theres a different way to do it? Or is a trial and error thing? Cheers

New tune in with injectors scaled properly this time. Just changing the injector settings gave an extra 10kw and 30nm. Runs a nice flat 11.7 afr on boost now. Power delivery is smooth and pulls the whole way through the rev range. Very happy with it now