JamieB

Would like to keep under 150,000 km.. I think optioned up xr6t might be my best option..

hi, looking to upgrade from my current ba xr6t to an fg, I am mostly interested in a g6et or xr50 t but not sure what the differences really are? is it just bodykit , diff and suspension? does the 50th anniversary edition just mean it had g6e interior? I dont really want to spend over $20k so I realize it could be a squeeze, is there any other model that can supply the premium interior and leather seats would be a bonus

I would have thought it would throw an overboost code, which is what it done with the broken actuator.

yes codes instantly re-appear after clearing.. the only problem I have with the car is very occasionally (once every 10 days maybe?) when driving the throttle will become unresponsive, pressing it 100% does absolutely nothing, turning the car off and back on and it will be fine again. I have access to VCM tuning software and have the ecm unlocked, we had previously raised the boost levels and played with a couple of other things, so I thought restoring the factory tune might solve this problem, but after a week of running with the factory tune it has just done this again. (I wonder if this is the forced shutdown code?)

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Sorry forgot to write it had these codes before the turbo replacement but I thought that May have solved the wastegate related issue.

Hi, I got some error codes on my ba xr6t Auto, they are: P0238 - Turbocharger boost sensor A circuit P0243 Turbocharger wastegate Solenoid A P11832 - Engine Oil Temperature Sensor Circuit P2105 - Throttle Actuator control system - forced engine shutdown. I have just replaced the turbo after a bearing failure and also fitted a FG xr6T wastegate actuator due to damage on my old one.

When I bought it I was told by the previous owner that it had already been replaced under the recall, I cleaned the sliders and put some liquid lanolin on them to lubricate and all seems good now

Straight after posting this it has started to work again :/ but sounds very tired and slow

Hi, I have a ba xr6t and all of a sudden the sunroof has stopped operating. I jumped in the car and tried the preset 1 and 2 buttons which done nothing I then tried the arrow which opened the sunroof to the 'popped' position but now I can't get it closed, none of the buttons are doing anything. The control pad is still illuminated so I am assuming it is not the fuse When I turn off the ignition it usually beeps and auto closes but it now isn't doing that either so I'm really not sure what else to check. I have tried disconnecting and reconnecting the battery already

Cheers mate, Lined the exhaust up by a picture but using the wastegate bracket was a good idea , I shoulda thought of that haha

Hi guys, Just pulled my turbo off and pulled the housings off to put on my new chra but didn't mark the orientation of the housing before disassembly :/ . I'm after some pictures or a decent description of the orientation of the housings Cheera

Yeah ive had the turbo on and off 4 times already for different problems so now its time for new turbo lol. Hmm I see $700 cores? How bad are the $350 yum cha turbos on ebay? considering I wouldn't ever run more than ~9psi

Hey guys, I have a ba xr6t The last few days all of a sudden while driving the car would start making a crunching/whining noise coming from under the bonnet and I noticed on my ultragauge that it would not be making any boost and the noise would change with the revs of the engine. But then all of a sudden after 10-30 seconds it would make a bad crunching noise and then disappear completely and the car would make boost again. It keep doing this, and happens even under light load while driving I managed to replicate the sound with the car parked and it sounds like it is coming from the turbo. also after shutting off the car I can hear the turbo spinning for a along time which ive heard is common but it really doesn't sound healthy. If my turbo really is shagged then what is the cheapest option considering my T is just a daily hack while ive got an R34 that ive just bought a new turbo for so I have the old GT3076 from that available for the xr6?

amazingly yes. im still confused why the computer is not cutting power or going into a limp mode once it sees that it is overboosting?

Wizzing sound was coming from missing bolt on waste gate bracket that went right through to the intake side of the turbo. Got it all back together and car is going a lot better, still making the 'howling' noise from the exhaust though. And on a test drive it briefly saw 18psi before I jumped off the gas :/ so I have to be very carefull until I get a new actuator.

I blew regulated air into the wastegate actuator and it failed to open, at any point. The air was leaking out of the small hole in the side and at the bottom where the rod comes out. So my assumption is that the diaphragm has a hole in it and is leaking

Thanks, I should state the exhaust was on the car when I bought it so I can't be sure if it has been tuned, but I'm thinking not. Does the tune need to be edited because the waste gate cannot handle the extra flow?

me and my mate are both heavy diesel mechanics so we have mechanical knowledge, just not 100% relateable to this application. My mate with the software says 'if it grenades its on me (him)' I have an ultra gauge which was previously seeing upto 10psi then cutting power, but it was very intermittent - it would do it one day but not the next, which is why I was thinking actuator problem

how would one test the actuator? by blowing air directly into it and seeing if it opens? obviously there is more than just over boost going on though? If I was to give it an edit to accept another ~2psi could this compensate for the overboost? How much boost is 'safe'? for daily with standard injectors?

Hi, Ive got an array of problems with my xr6t, It is an Auto BA with 200,xxxKM. Factory with only turbo back ss X-force exhaust and I am about to bolt a wog style front mount on. Whenever I am under any throttle I can hear a 'wizzing' sound that I have heard previously with boost leaks however I cannot find one. (Have pulled crossover off and checked tb joiner. when under Hard acceleration and high in the rev range it also makes a 'howling' noise from the exhaust. I was told this is likely boost leak on the exhaust side, so I previously pulled the turbo and manifold off, installed new studs and gaskets and reassembled, this did not fix the problem. I have a mate with a laptop setup with VCM editor and some diagnostic software, we unlocked my ECM and found the following codes: (We are also able to do any ecm edits necessary) P0236 - TC boost system P0238 - TC Boost sensor circuit high voltage P0243 - Turbocharger wastegate solenoid 1 P1183 - Engine oil Temperature Sensor Circuit P1227 - Wastegate Failure closed (Over pressure) P2105 - Throttle Actuator Control System - Forced engine shutdown So I have once again pulled the turbo off and had a decent inspection but cannot find what I would think to cause these problems. The turbo has only slight amount of in/out movement (an amount I would conciser allowable, but I can measure with dial gauge if necessary) and there is no evidence of the impeller contacting the housing. It was also still making boost (to the point of over boost) so I am hoping turbo health is still good. The only problem I can see is a slight crack around where the rod goes to the flapper, but I don't think its possible for it to be leaking from here? I have also heard the flappers do not open sufficiently but is this really the maximum amount of travel for a unmodified flapper? Is there a DIY I can do to increase the flow of the wastegate flapper without having to send the housing away? (Car is daily, need it on the road ASAP) I was also going to replace the boost solenoid, but have been unable to find one on the net, and my local ford dealer are not too helpful. also how does the Solenoid bleed off boost to the wastegate if the bottom port is capped? Thanks for any assistance

did you find the problem?

I have had the car approx 12 months, it had a similar noise once before and I found it to be a boost leak near the intercooler, now it has developed again after I hit a kangaroo (im sure the intercooler is not leaking). I found if I stall it up I can look under the bonnet while its making the noise and it really seems to be coming from around the turbo/exhaust manifold

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Hi, I have an auto BA xr6 turbo with 200,000Km on it. it has 2 issues that I believe are leaks. It has had the first since I bought it. Whenever accelerating hard and reving hard (~4k +) it makes what I would describe as a howling noise, sounds like its from the exhaust. I revomed the turbo and installed new studs and gaskets between dump-turbo-manifold and block but it didnt help. I have also checked and tightened other exhaust flanges down the system. The second noise is a 'whizzing' type of noise that I would say is a boost leak on the intake side. It made a similar noise once when it popped a line off the intercooler, however this time I cannot find the leak. I have removed the crossover pipe and checked the throttle body rubber, also taken the pipe off the presssure side of the tubo and replaced the clamp to no avail. My only other thought is leaking at the intercooler as the car hit a roo that required new radiator and condensor. My only other thought is turbo failure? there seemed to be a bit of shaft movement in the turbo when I pulled the intake pipe off. Also the tubo has a GCG badge on it so I am hoping it has been rebuilt sometime in its life. Another problem with the car is under heavy acceleration it will missfire badly, sounding almost like the traction control is kicking in. It is also similar to when my coilpacks failed, but I have fitted new genuine coils and plugs About 20,xxxkm ago. It usually does this 3500-4000 rpm, but not every time. If I keep my foot down it will get stuck on that rpm for 1-2 seconds before continuing to accelerate.