PTR_NITRO_FG

Umm....AFAIK I'm pretty sure you will need to retune if you change the dump/cat on the exhaust. Even if that's your one and only mod, pretty sure retune is a MUST.     So if you want the cat then I'd suggest buying it and then chucking it on just before you do your gas tune (I assume by gas you mean LPG?) and if that is the case why would you want a cat for? to replace some of the power you are losing when you convert the car to gas?     unless ethanol or E85 is a 'gas' ?? LOL :P   be a man and just run premium 98 :) haha nah actually I'm pretty sure I've seen a couple of people with LPG setups on here so I guess you could go for it? Talking to your tuner first is probably wise move

Yeah pretty much no point wasting money on multiple dyno trips lol just build up and go from there lol and then when your bored with round 1, you build up your parts for round 2 lol     MT as in Monsta Torque? I was considering going there, but for a little bit more pennies, I think I would prefer the guru 'Simon' at XFT (apparently he's the man in WA). MT would be a lot closer but yeah, everyone recommends Simon so that's what ill be doing when I have the money (SCT, ID 1000's, Tune, F6 Cooler, Rapids 4" intake/battery relo, rapids replacement cooler pipes and this Cat) hoping this 5K will get me the 300+rwkw (really hoping for 310-320 but we will see what happens). And yes eventually one day Ill get a better intercooler (but been reading it should be good for mid 300's MAX so hoping low 300's will be ok and not too much heat soak (no track work at all and only give it a few squirts (30 secs max) during a one hour daily trip....just hoping the engine running for 1 hour wont make heat soak power issues lol...but I'm getting way off topic so yeah.   +1 for the cat group buy one day :)  

hahaha of coarse...paying customers always come first LOL     I'm in no rush either (not sure about others). but basically when I buy the cat all it will do is sit in my house until I can afford the 3K to tune and do other crap at the same time.   And with my crappy paying job I'm sure that will be some time away hahaha. cheers

Also interesting that you have a boost controller fitted lol. I was thinking of going that route (as with the old skool jap car days). but I think using that edit software or getting a proper tune with the sct will be safer for the car. Not sure if it would do any damage just upping the boost to 17psi ? I.e. will it cause the engine to run rich or lean or ping or other weird factors that I have no idea about maybe im just being paranoid?

Im running Falken Azenis PT-722 (I think that's what they are called?) - I basically stinged out (as there are 2 other options above this tyre for around $90 more per tyre (Falken FK453) and $120 per tyre more for the best ones (RT-615 - I think these were semi slicks? and I care about getting max kms out of my tyres ). Personally, I'm not sure if I believe the bob jane bloke that sold them to me as he rekons that the 'average' driver will not notice the difference between PT722 and FK453 but TBH it has pretty much marginally more grip than my cheapo maxxis MA-Z1 (in a 245 and my falkens are 275 lol). Basically 1st gear just before 5000ish rpm will still get the wheels to spin for 1-2 seconds during gear change where the maxxis was prob more like 2-3 seconds so I guess technically its still an improvement. This is stock power as well, so im guessing if you want max grip and no spinning you have to sacrifice the amount of kms you would expect out of new tyres and go hardcore and get semi slicks or them Mickey Thompson street radials that people buy). In the wet though it feels more safe than the maxxis but I'm a bitch in the wet and hate oversteer lol and yeah I know why did I buy a rwd car for That could also have something to do with the good year eagle F1 directional 5 tyres that I have in the front Im thinking they are a pretty decent tyre as when I tried to source rears in 275/35/18 the cheapest I could find was $680 each (and my falkens were $328 and that's 'steep' enough for me). But yeah in the dry the combo is pretty good wtf will I do when the boost is upped ... learn how to handle the fully hectic oversteer haha BTW I think my next set of tyres are gunna be something like Conti Sport Pro 3 (only every heard good things about these tyres and love the lip of tyre that protects the rims) kinda spewing I didn't go that route, but I scored such a good deal on the fronts (97% second hand set) and was rushing to get some new rear tyres as I only had 2 days to choose something and couldn't wait for the one week delivery (if I wanted to get the contis cheap @ $1450 set of 4). This was up against bob janes price of $1500 rears only lol but I'm still happy with what I have for now

Ok cool. I guess I will just wait until the product is made as a bolt on (which would be much more preferred than welding one in). I guess if 428rwkw has gone through them they must be better than the venom one (and its good just in case I ever change turbos in the far far away future lol).     I'll try and keep my eyes out for when the group buy actually happens :) cheers mick

Ok cool, thanks for the reply. I will have to do some google searching to look it up. Im assuming its straight bolt on like venom one? Or is it only the cat only and not a cat pipe like the venom? Is it better quality and supports bigger power? Or is it chosen because you can get a better prices? Ill have to keep my eye out in the group buy thread I think lol cheers

    Hey ratter, is this GB happening or have I missed it????? what brand are you looking at?? Is it the venom cat pipe or something else???

Also just realised you said standard guards and RIMS? ... if you mean standard ford rims (I.e. 8inch wide POS ) then pretty sure 245 is the widest you can legally fit to them ? I may be wrong but fairly sure but I don't understand the question cause in your earlier post you said your running 20inch rims? But yeah width of rim will dictate max legal width on tyre allowed. 1010tires.com has some pretty cool calculators and one of them tells you the min-max tyre size you can run on each rim width I.e. I think 8 inch wide rim can run between a 215mm to 245mm tyre? or something like that

A little late but 265 will definitely fit. I'm running 275 atm with a 9.5 inch +35 offset and its looking almost flush ... only thing I'm concerned about is when you lower the car idk if its my offset or woteva but def looks like the wheel arch will touch the side of the tyres (unless the wheels tuck in more once you lower which I think it does? lol) if it doesn't tuck then I guess roll guards may be needed or maybe if I get a camber kit and more camber to make it tuck in more at the top (if that makes sense and if I understand camber correctly haha). But seen 295s and lowered so idk whether offset is diff to mine and whether more camber than me? but 265 will go easily I rekon yay!!!!!

Yeah man, I tend to ramble when I start talking about cars lol And then when I read it all back I just CBF deleting all the extra crap haha I think most people are just going to say "use the search function" but maybe someone out there will surprise me with some answers to my questions. Mainly the turbo side induction questions, as the intercooler part is more rambling and I think im just gunna bite the bullet and eventually buy the rapid systems v1 intercooler. Chris is a good guy and I will just ring him later when I cbf as he should be able to answer most of the stuff. Only annoying thing is he is suggesting up to a whole days labour is involved in putting the intercooler on, so I'm just curious as to how much cutting will be done (kinda scarey about cutting reo bar in case of a crash, but if everyone else has done it (as apparently a lot of other kits will require cutting too) but Chris and others have suggested its good for like 450rwkw? and that will be more than adequate for what I need (even with the gtx turbo I dunno if I would be ballsy enough to have over 400rwkw...but maybe my driving skills will get better after I get used to the 300+) lol Here I go again with the long posts :(

sorry again for the long post , feel free to only answer some of the questions at a time lol I swear every time I start a post or email to someone, it ends up being the stupidest longest letter thing ever hahah

Thread revival Just continuing off this train of thought. Been thinking about getting a pod setup and when comparing the passenger side + muffler delete price vs. turbo side CAI + Battery relocation, I see there is usually around $100 difference. I personally don't mind the zutututtu flutter crap (and yes I know I will prob get sick of it after a while, but not having any noise is a strange sensation and personally I prefer it when ppl can hear that I'm up their asses lol) ANYWAY...I guess theres a few questions I need help on. Firstly the sound of fluttering or whatever, can this be controlled like in my old jap car where basically if I kept the revs below 2500rpm, when releasing the accelerator it wouldn't make too much noise (and if its below 2000 rpm literally no noise is made - meaning when im near coppers or anything, if I drove like a nana then no flutter noise will be present). Does this concept work for the FG XR6T ? Also is there any downsides to having the turbo side CAI used on a STOCK car ? I saw some posts about people saying they need to tune the car after the pod install, but I would have thought it would be the same as passenger side box in that the ecu will reprogram itself over the next 500kms of driving or whatever and that if you want to see good gains from it, then the tune is a must. (But tbh im kinda saving to do most stuff b4 tune and coz im pretty poor I realistically don't see the tune happening for quite some time so was interested to know if there will be any negatives to using a turbo side intake on stock setting? How about the cheapo kits for passenger side airbox (im talking the ebay jobbies (I think they are actually that autotechnika brand that I see in super cheap autos?)) If a turbo side intake is bad for stock car and I have to go passenger side, then tbh those cheaper kits really look the goods. And right now theres a guy doing them for $239 and one with a damaged box (im hoping packing and not the actual black enclosure part lol) and that's going for $209 delivered. Not sure if that guy is a known member here but at $209, I was thinking of buying an actual k&n pod filter (think they are around the 100-150 price range?) and therefore have a kit for $309-359 and save a couple hundred bux (or is the reason they are so cheap because the enclosure are sh*thouse quality and don't fit without major trimmimg, etc?) I know the whole cheap, reliable, powerful scenario and yes I would prefer it to be reliable, powerful and not cheap lol but I gotta ask in case it is actually a quality fitting enclosure as it looks similar to a couple diy jobbies ive seen on the forums so made me think maybe someone 'reputable' on these forums are making them ? Lastly, (mayb not the right section to ask) is intercoolers and heat soak. Theres been a lot of debate about heat soak, etc with some people saying 300rwkw (and 280 for fg xr6t) is the most power the car will put out before being impacted by heat soak and then some are saying 350rwkw? I tend to believe the tuners thread I think I read somewhere (could have been mick from pitlane) in which they were saying just under 300 is the limit (think it was 285 or something?) but I could be very wrong. Now after talking to Chris @ rapid systems, he was actually telling me that the 'stepped core' that ppl get (PWR/PW) are actually not that much better than stock as the stepped part has issues I think, and that stage 2 is pretty much then a minimum. I guess my main question is for DAILY DRIVING (no track or drag strip action ever) will the stock intercooler or even a F6 one be ok? or will I NEED to upgrade. Im only thinking at my initial 'stage 1' tune which im hoping to get around the 300rwkw mark and eventually onto 320ish (or whenever I max out the turbo) after putting the full exhaust. But what I want to know is about heatsoak and how much power you actually lose and how much it affects someone during daily driving duties. A lot of my driving is stupid stop start traffic and freeway driving to work (with the odd acceleration here and there when I need to over take). So will a bunch of my power disappear even during normal driving I.e. after 1 hr of driving when the engine bay is all hot and stuff will I be losing power and instead of 300rwkw im actually producing 250 coz of the soak? Or is it simply a dyno/thrashing thing that when you go flogging your car back to back for 2-5min intervals of hard driving, is that the only way you will you notice heat soak? Sorry for the long post and questions but any help would be appreciated cheers

hmmmmm...that's interesting. Maybe I should look at the f6 intercooler too. lol See them popping up from time to time and pretty cheap too. I must have read the post wrong (or it was a while ago so don't really remember figures off the top of my head) but some guy was doing a super intercooler comparison and the figures were like 10800 something units for FG XR6T and the f6 was only slightly more. and good intercoolers were like 14500 units (I think it was displacement or some figure obtained by multiplying?) IDK. I will have to do more searching on it and see, but judging by the size, if the xr6t intercooler is affected by heat soak at 280-300rwkw then maybe the f6 will be good for 300-320rwkw (which would be perfect for now coz im sure my stage one mods will see just under the 300 rwkw mark). and your airbox looks very interesting lol. I was just gonna chop the hole and have no air guiding and just hope for the best LOL. A few people have said its ok, so hopefully it is? I figure the cold air must guide itself in somehow as the distance isn't too far away from headlight (I think?). I just have to wait til someone buys my stock rims so I have some pennies to sort this stuff out (and hopefully enough left for some coils and shockies). Thanks for the advice

Cheers Kizzer . Big ass hole getting chopped in my air box for sure then lol I saw one dudes post where he literally cut almost half the box (the front plus right side of lower air box). But I think just a decent hole across the front of the lower box will do nicely (similar to the shape of the f6 lower snorkel mod done on BA/BF's, only twice the size) Ive been thinking about doing the f6 cooler as well but apparently they will get heat soak around 280-300 rwkw and above? So pretty much they are almost the same as the stock FG XR6T one hey? maybe tiniest bit bigger? your sig says stock as f*ck so I assume no tune? What was the point of swapping it over? Realistically does it provide any difference over stock unit? Cheers

and btw I already have the k&n filter and have had ones before so I know the noise is minimal but perhaps on my jap car it was amplified because of the full exhaust system lol I will have to do it on the weekend or something if my parents have that weird star looking screwdriver thing. and yes im a noob and don't do any of my mods and maintenance cause im just too scared to break sh*t lol bloody cars always sucking the cash. there's just so many things I want to buy and its so easy to spend 10k on this car lol goddam I wish I was rich

Ok thanks for that Adam. I guess as said in earlier posts if I buy one now it will be purely for looks. But im still gunna buy it anyway and hope that with all of the above done I will get some extra noise. Plus its getting me ready for my stage 1 tune so hopefully by running 14-16psi or whatever the tuner decides will get me some more noise. on another note beat my first car the other day lol. some vu ute but he said he had mild cam, exhaust and custom tune so rekon 360-390 HP ATW? Good times good times lol

RESURRECTION POST Just wanting to know if the extra intake noise only comes when you up the boost? The car is stock ATM so will I notice any intake noise? Some people have been saying no noise at all until you increase boost? Looking at getting rapid systems one (the stainless with black joiners). I will also be putting a k&n air panel filter. and I was thinking about doing the rapid 3" throttle body elbow thing with bov attached and then after reading another post was thinking about putting aftermarket intercooler piping (process west) to get more noise. So second question is will those parts all be fine to just chuck on without doing any tune (I.e. will I notice lag or any negative effects by putting slightly larger IC piping?) Should I bother doing the 'cutting extra hole in lower airbox'? I seen a few post of ppl just simply cutting the hole rather than trying to stick the f6 lower snorkel. Only thing ive been thinking though is bugs and crap going into air box? cheers for any help/threads that will help me cause I want more noise (without going all out and doing 4inch turbo intake + battery relocation) as im only thinking 300rwkw zone eventually so stock airbox is all sweet? also let me know if I have posted this in the wrong section lol