Power

Just scanned the thread. The Nm figure shown of 2,396.6 is to be divided by the diff ratio of 4.100 = 577.95nM. No, it is torque, not tractive effort N rear wheels through Auto torque converter? Correct ratio? Anyway...

Leather hand brake cover - lol.

Scotty, Hell mate! You had me trawling the NSW RTA website trying to sus out why the hell there were double demerits ATM. Bloody digging up old posts. Cheers anyway, Joe

EDIT + Hi stall speed torque converter - mine is "2,800" but actually having only had a few days I have a feeling it will easily hold 3,000....need time to work it out. "Oh what a feeling" Don't even need to bother with the brake business for 'normal' eating of other vehicles, it just goes with a 'no lag' feel.

Mate.....now you have had the worst experience and downtime I have ever heard of. Hope it gets better!

Thanks DW. Guess that says it all. PS - Still doing Auto changeovers (damaged planetaries here, but drives OK - ha ha - for now)? Reason for my original question was a view to a spare box for minimising downtime when new box is being built, and then as a spare for any time in the future...in case the rebuilt starts to go....and on it goes, eh?

And yeah...atually it's a function of RPM & TORQUE....but lock up is interesting....but lockup of a 2,800rpm converter at 2,800? Not so sure.

I've heard your 'stall' is 3,000rpm (whatever). Is this the same for any of your tunes - will answer the question!

I'm looking at auto options, next week or so to commence. Anything from ~$3K to >$7K One thing confuses me. e.g. If I want to the 'stall' speed of my converter to be, say, 2,800rpm - why is it that this seems so easy to most? I would assume a SPECIFIC torque converter would certainly have a different stall rpm in say a stcok XR6T vs. one running >400rwkw as per my current project -> Because Torque would be the factor that would change this. Another example: If running a low tune of say 320rwkw, and then going race tune of say 400+, the stall rpm should be higher at 400+ - let's assume peak power/torque rpm are the same. Is there something I'm missing? I would think your tuner and his selection of torque converter would be critical?

No matter where I ask, I cannot seem to get a definitive answer on this one (including here I think a while back) - if any reply at all. BTR 4 spd, 97LE?, in BA MKII XR6 Turbo vs. any N/A Falcon BA 6cyl I'm told there are only tuning differences (Simon at Nizpro) I.e. assume changing the Ford PCM parameters (e.g. via SCT [Capa] - EDIT) - I.e. they are mechanically, electrically, and physically THE SAME in EVERY respect. Yet, I've been told there are solenoid differences? Others also say Kevlar bands in both or only in Turbo, some say this was never true once they inspected the boxes <sigh>? Are there any differences, pump, clutches, band materials, electrical, wiring....anything? Cheers.

Whatever...I'll be in.

How much for the cover Mal?

Ha ha ha. That will have a few people scratching their heads!

Ouch, sorry to hear this! I'm currently exploring options for a new auto, but CVs seem to be an increasing issue as power levels continue to increase. What power/torque are you running?

In a flash....hmmmm....EDIT! Yeah, one of those niggles that just grates after a couple of years....

Sorry (should have explained), thinking race *only* tune in Atomic engine + edit @ 6,700rpm limit & tuned to suit (the high side of a safe limit shall we say - bearing wear and more to the point even cranshaft flex at that speed could be an issue in time if higher. I've had a flat 6,000 (bit more actually) set for all my tunes to err on the safe side, and would rarely use that rpm in any case - pointless due to the way it would function (torque/power) with current tune - just adds to potential problems mainly with the (race spec) bearings....hey, you could go 7,500rpm if you have $$$ to throw away on maintenance! Would sound damned good too - lol.

And....of the four, who are you looking at in Melbourne? Kewish I guess (I have yet to call them)? Who are you using for, and $ for freight & maybe insurance? Not to you mate: But is my question about BTR 4 speed auto's all being the same in ANY BA sedan/ute or BF 4 spd model STUPID or beyond our forum members knowledge? If it is stupid call me STUPID (I've been called worse ). Heeeeeeeeelp. booo hooooo

No, not putting together a stock box at all. Looking at a 400rwkw+ box (sort of asking a lot from that box of course). May go interestate, may go local, looking at options and ideas rather than the $ figure. Just wanting to buy another and get it built and do a swap to avoid downtime, and then have a spare stocker just in case.

Any brains out there that can save from my procratinating and let me know what a BA MKII with standard diff ratio/tyre ratio & standard 4 spd auto with speed limiting removed could actually acheive @ 6,700rpm in top gear - all other issues aside (or the maths to work it out)?

Yeah, but like many things APS (my initial path into mods unfortunately) it wasn't the T diff, wasn't unichip only as they did some speed limit fix that didn't hold anyway except for that run, also I'm sure I read differing articles about wether it was Phase III or the never released Phase IV... Still, it was a great acheivement, maybe the best documented? From what I read it was apparently MORE than scary ~280km as the aero made the car need a few 'lanes'. Who's going to beat it though?

Not at all, but let's face it: with a standard box running around 1,000nM how much longer can my luck hold out? I thought I had done some damage to the planetary (by sound only as diagnosed by others), but then even that seems to have gone away with change of workshops, service, engine change...., tune etc. Just want to be prepared so it will be an easier process and no tears and delays.

Thanks. Always had thought it was brakes, then engine management, but thought I'd seen something about the auto and ABS. Did a bit of digging in a manual, and saw what I skimmed one day simply reffered to a speedometer drive gear retained to the output shaft in non-ABS vehicles only. Obviously this doesn't matter. A HUGE BUMP: With all the expertise on this board, am I safe to assume that the BTR4 speed taken from any BA falcon sedan or ute would be a direct and bolt-in replacement? That even if any crossmember or trans support brackets were different between vehichles, the mounting point and box inside and out is the same?

Nah, I don't go for that BS about WHY he needed a retune. Sounds more likely all the good stuff has been removed, and now the tune is stuffed. Maybe I'm too suspicious, but when money is involved...... May be a great car, but also may be a huge number of skeletons in it's glovebox. I'd be looking around a bit more - my 2 cents. GOOD LUCK!

Any expertise in regard to wether the BTR 4 speed is different in ANY way across the BA/BF (4spd auto) range of sedans/utes? Some models have no traction control for example. In torque reduction is this done in conjunction with the PCM controlling the auto, or is it a function of a slightly different auto model or option, or nothing to do with the auto at all? Cheers.

No, the large colour screen - premium. Doesn't drop BACK to 3. If you wind the volume to zero and switch off the car, it starts at 3 when you restart the car. Any higher levels than 3 when you switch off the car, it starts at that higher level - fair enough! I can't remember it being like this when I first had the car (then again, memory fades), but certainly for some time now. It's no biggie, just one of those anoyances.