razorbackfree

Nah, just get a mod to copy the pics from the link and post in tutorial section. Night all...

Dam this edit timeout... One last thing, I have a tutorial I made ages ago about making your own pwr steering bleeder. But I can't work out how to up to tutorial section?? I have 15.1mb total over 9 pics. Can I .rar them to someone that can get them posted?

Right dug up an old post regarding Mahles that went bad for a fella I copied ages ago I don't show a 2618 Mahle Piston for the B series. 4032 is a great material for it's intended purpose, however that intended purpose is quieter operation lower power cars with less oil consumption. 4032 is not the material I would choose for a high power turbocharged car. This is the same material used in SRP Pistons, which again - are good pistons, but they are not the correct choice for what you are doing in my opinion. Your engine builder may prefer the Mahle 4032 pistons because he can run tighter clearances, but exactly for the reason that the 2618 pistons are a high expansion material, they are a better choice for something that will see a lot of abuse. Personally on a sleeved engine with a 35R trying to make over 600whp I would run a 2618 piston. JE, CP, Wiseco, or Manley. I also recommend upgrading the wrist pins at this power level. I also would not be scared to use another CP Piston as your first post indicates that it was not the piston's fault. And on that same note, a 4032 piston would have broken even quicker, and possibly more violently in that situation. Anyone else agree 2618 better than 4032?

Noted and 250" wrist pins added to the list. Yep those forged pistons are bloody expensive, need my stocks (trading) to keep moving up this week and it could be a maybe? So just say I went forged, its a oversize/rebore needed, not a stock replacement? I guess it all depends on how the bores are, like I said will get it measured while its apart, but say they are true, may stay with the stocks pistons??? I wonder what the failure rate is of stocky's? These fellas at the shop were great no BS, just straight up info and they do alot of Ford Turbo's This site is awesome, thx fellas, I feel at home around here

Mate thx alot, Was just looking at the spools then on fleabay. It has 69K on the motor, but I brought it at 49K and its had sfa hard driving whatsoever due to a sh*tbox reco slushbox I brought rebuilt. It lost shifting from 3-4, now I've lost all but 1 and R. So she only gets a drive around the block every month and a burnout when ford wins bathurst, lol. Its my baby and and I have spent over 5K replacing every bush with superpro and pedders adj height and dampener suspension. Put a King sway bar in the front as well. The car has sat in my garage under a cover for years, I know xr6's have come down, but I got it for a bargain and it has the ADR approved APS kit and everything is seriously like new. I'm going to ditch the auto, will be doing the boxswap when I pull out the motor for the rods. I will simply get it all done in the one hit, so at least the missus will finally shut up/ (She's a American, cough I mean Expensive Daewoo supporter you see lol) I have a mal woods fully rebuilt t-56 all ready to go, with a triple plate carbon clutch, 4 pot brembo's and the bigger rear disc's to also bolt on. Going to do the duel zone at the same time, have all the parts like I said. Its a silhouette with the luxury pack. So far I've done the mirror temp sensor, because I was sick for a year, but have been bouncing back strong of late so about to get stuck back into all my projects. So atomic oil pump gears and chain, headstuds, hone and gasket. This is what I'm talking about! And of course I will get the block checked in the process. Below is a vid when the sludgebox worked, tyres get expensive! Cheers!! xr6t.mkv

Hey mate thanks for quick reply, been waiting 5 days in ford forums, that site is doa! I get what your saying about a short, but say I went 10 thou rebore, surely if I source pistons, rods bearings and atomic oil pump, bolts and machining that going to come in under $3800?? Guess I need to ring around to see what a rebore costs with parts put together. When you mention timing gear do you just mean a good brand chain or more? Do you have an advise on what are the best brands to get? I'm thinking you have built a few of these motors right? Cheers!

hi all, OK as we know the BA had the weaker rods, so after talking to a mechanic, and as my xr6 hasn't even done 70K yet. He said to get upto 350-400 rwkw on the standard turbo I need to get the rods changed as they don't like pushing them above 325 rwkw on a tune. I'm at 315 and simply want 400 if possible. I have the full APS kit on the car as well. He said that because the motor has low k's all I need is standard size gudgeon pin and crank sizes, just a thicker connecting rod, and the stock pistons will be ok to reuse. He also recons that its probably best to pull the motor out, then rip the head off and sump to replace the old rods. Well I can do all this myself, but what I need to know does this sound right from you guys that have done this before. And what is the best brand rods to use, and any part numbers I need. Further down the track I may try and get 500rwkw or even higher if I was to change out the plenum and upgrade the fuel delivery and turbo. So can anyone help with info and maybe a quick overrun of whats involved or tricks that will make the job easier. Like would I need to do new crank bearings or anything or will every thing just swap over? thx in advance

Pull your window switches, put a multi to the plug, find your earth, find your timed power, find your constant pwr.

Did it do it when the icc was out?

hi I have a DIY power steering bleeder in general tech. can you move it to tutorials maybe under a new header FLUIDS?? Just seems buried away in general tech. thx!

Update Taking the front driving light out did nothing - dam it! Decided to stick with a 23 spline changeover, and am going to put the change towards coilovers. Seriously, auto downchanges spool too slow for me to feel safely in control under hard braking. I figure that's why they're called tranny's - because auto's are gay! lol Just scored a shifter, 6 speed knob, trim and upper boot. - like new off fleabay for a hungee. Death from above to wreckers who won't part out!

Yeah its a bug machine! 10 SPLINE INPUT SHAFT UPGRADE: 23 spline $350. OR 26 spline input shaft $645 26 spline Triple clutch hub $390 $685 for an extra 3 splines. What do you recon? I don't have the power to justify it, but would be good to know its been done. The auto is being sent back soon as I can be bothered crawling under the car. Clutch is being picked up tomorrow!

I had the red temp symbol flashing up the other day. If you don't know it means if its an auto, the transmission is over heating. This is a new bug, thermo fans sometimes stay on, then 15 mins later temp symbol. Sometimes I've noticed if I turn the motor off and restart the timing is back 100%. Then at least I get a decent speed putt timing wise, but transmission still won't go to third, and if I restart it, then pinging is back. LOL I got under the car and felt transmission temp after the warning light. It was scalding. I checked the tranny cooler just in case and its circulating ok. I have since taking the front driving light out, because my PWR tranny cooler sits behind it and will soon see if it makes any difference. Just scored an Extreme triple plate! Still chasing a tailshaft and still yet to change input shaft on T-56 from 10 to 26 spline.

Thx for your comments. I persevere,15 minutes at a time! Got a new clutch cylinder towards the conversion at least

I've got some major bugs going on. If anyone has been through similar problems or knows what's wrong let me know. Battery is new also. From a cold start car runs perfect. Gearbox works correctly including sports shift. Now if I drive like my Grandma everything seems ok, but its because the bug isn't activated yet. Its usually 15 minutes later, and after giving it some beans, but not even WOT, it first tell tale sign will be a deep thump into third. Within a few minutes of the thump, It wont change from second to third.. I will then flip back between drive and sports maybe 5-10 times, with a light pedal, it usually goes into third. But this option is short lived and getting third soon disappears. If I get third and leave it in drive it will up/down change between third/forth as normal or downchange to second/first. If in sports it will change up/down between forth and third, or downchange to second or first no problem. But, when slowing down and it down changes back to second, or I choose second through sports or its kicked down to second. I'm back at the bloody start again and it wont go back to third. The only way it ever goes to third is in drive but now it has to rev to around 4900-5200 rpm before it hits third. This is not with WOT or anything, it just gets stuck in second. As it continually gets worse, soon enough no matter how much flipping in and out of sports it completely refuses to go to third at all. I have noticed if I start driving like my grandma again about 10 mins later, I can sometimes get it to go to third flipping back and forth again, but its never a definite. On top of this the motor starts pinging as well. Cold it has no pings, it doesn't happen until the dreaded thump. I have reflashed the tuner with a different tune when hot and it makes no difference to the pinging or third gear working properly. Another problem associated after the thump is it starts to stall when I pull up. The rev's will be like the transmission is not disengaging or its grabbing and sometimes stalls, again I don't have any problems like this until the dreaded thump. Used to have a piggyback, it died. I then had PCM checked, passed, updated and normal tune installed so it would start. Car was then SCT tuned. I get no codes! This box was brought reconditioned and has done it from day one. Have talked to Auto experts, told me its valvebody in transmission because of no codes. History - After I brought the car I drove it back home over two days, distance was one thousand kays. Original box used to kick down dramatically with stuff all throttle, but driving home changed gear normally and in sports. Next day after I got it home, I had no third or forth whatsoever that's why the gearbox was replaced. Never had any pinging issues or stalls with the old box. I always swore new computer cars were sh*t! I miss my Torana! Anyone??

Here's what I've watched or am watching of late, Fast n loud, Legit, Vikings, DaVinci's Demon's, Hemlock Grove, Defiance, and my favourite Bates Motel. Thanks, TPB!

Yeah it was a great day! I took some photo's of your car, that was the first time I had seen the plazaman plenum in the flesh. How many kw's did it add? I liked your fuel pressure gauge set up too. Was that around $100 off fleabay? Yes, we will have to hook up one day. I'm in the middle of this conversion at the moment so she's not looking too great. Got a cheap auto loom off ebay I'm going to mod up. I used to have a piggyback before then SCT, and it was a cut and shut to remove it. I'm sure its causing me problems. I'm get about 15 driving from cold before Auto won't change to 3rd, and motor starts pinging under hard acceleration. Its driving me nuts, that's why I'm booting the Auto!

superior-gooz is one of the sellers with chromed ones at $75 pair delivered. Give him a message, or one of the other sellers who sell chromed versions. I'm sure someone will have them and they just haven't re-listed.

Would have been less messy and alot easier to tap into your power window switches! Thanks for the idea! Also, If you used fine wire or ribbon, you could get it to slip through that hinge gap. Just silicon an ultrabrite 3528 SMD led under the handle and bob's your uncle - no damage!

They should work fine, I'm getting some chromed ones soon. Bling bling!

Hi mate, thanks for the details you put down their. Not so scant now, hehe Guess like its going to be a timer switch setup, but I may do the spring instead - don't know yet? Ive actually got a "how to" ready to go on making a power steering bleeder, just don't know where to post it? I actually meant ratio's, not synchro's. I've got a clutch switch loom on the way, and looking at the existing plug where the auto brake switch loom attaches, I can see their is a spare wire or two that would be for a clutch switch!! For anyone wondering, It's to disengage the cruise and I also believe the clutch has to be depressed for starting?? Do you know if my auto tailshaft will work? I have the shorter yoke for the 6 speed, and am questioning from what I was told the length's are different between auto and manual - as in front shaft length, not yoke length. I figure all tailshafts are the same, its just the yoke that's different. Also are the auto/manual sandwich plates different? My ride is a silhouette, leather, BAT '03 with 60k with the APS phase 3 kit if anyone was wondering. Its got the shhhh shhhhh, carbon dioxide setup for the intercooler and also blows vertically from both sides on the wiper guard. I'm setting up ultrabrite led's on it at the moment so they look like flames. Making it so the globe colours are interchangeable too. Its my dream machine, Tricky Dicky signed my dash a few weeks ago too at an all ford day in Mareeba (FNQ) Farkin LEGEND! goes with my Colin Bond (yeah I know, and Alan Moffat signitures. ) My car is a bad bad black bitch, its the other girlfriend in my life, just ask my missus! hehe

Thanks for having a go about my search skills mate! I wasn't having a dig at the site in anyway! Most of my searches on google have come up empty handed! BF info is useless to me, but thanks. Anyway, the reverse lockout through the brake is a fix, but theirs a few better ones! Why? 1) their is a slight chance you can could slip into reverse under braking, downchanging from 6th to 5th. 2) everytime you brake its activating the solenoid, and leading to premature wear. The proper fix is to set the switch on a relay, timer and switch. The other fix is to change the spring tension in the solenoid to half its tension, allowing you to engage reverse with less effort, but still locking out reverse adequately. I've talked to the guy who makes the springs in the US and everyone is more than happy with the mod. Here's a link you can check out: http://forums.corral.net/forums/general-mustang-tech/1230133-t56-reverse-lockout-fix-I-came-up-good-one.html Why should I have cruise issues with a 6 speed flash? You just need the right flash in conjunction with the gearbox's synchro's. I have the BA MK 1, yes 4 speed/5speed only, But BA MK 2 were 6 speed. I believe the loom will work, from talking to many a wrecker! But same old story, scant info buddy!

Manuals use less fuel is not bull, I thought that was common knowledge? Reason's Auto's suck - Final ratio's, weight and they suck more kw from your drivetrain!