el-dub801

Re-opening an old thread, I know... I just bought a gt35r rear housing from Mamba to replace the cracked Garrett housing I have at the moment. Mamba claim a direct replacement turbine housing to bolt to the original core (but with mamba actuator) The problem is, theres a significant difference in housing sizes. The Mamba housing claims to be 1.05, but I suggest they have it wrong - the housing has no cast markings on it at all apart from a “14” on the inside of the exhaust manifold flange, being “14cm2”. Putting the two side by side and the garrett looks fatter and when measured is about 5mm wider all way around. Theres also a considerable amount of extra casting around the exhaust flange, with some other differences to the garrett, such as a relatively straight exit from the wheel to the flange (opposed to a taper on the Garrett), some nasty square edges around the machining for the wastegate port and a distinctly longer boss where the core bolts to (making the core and compressor housing forward more) Before I machine this housing and then have it coated, has anyone else used one of these housings and had any issues? I would suggest by just looking at the housing size that its been mistakenly branded and is alot smaller a/r than claimed, so naturally I dont really want to use it if its going to cause unnecessary back pressure. Looking forward to see what you guys have experienced with these Mamba housings. Here are the two side by side...

Thanks for the replies gents! I’ve had countless trim repairs done over the years but none really stood out as great quality work unfortunately. I’d have a crack at it myself, because most of the intricate stuff is hand sewn, but that damn chunky grip has some serious contours to it and could be a bit tricky.

Morning all, I have a quick question, does anyone know who or where Ford had their upholstery made for the B series, particularly FPV? Alternatively, does anyone know of any reputable trimmers in Sydney who could replicate OEM finish of FPV fat grip/chunky steering wheel? Thanks in advance.

Noted!

Hell yea @xr6tForMe! I hope to contribute to the xr6t community as much as possible. Forums like this wouldnt be possible without everyones input (and opinions)

I'll get my friend who's nigerian prince that works on an oil rig to send you a text and he will ask for your bank details for direct deposit

Ok so.... Removed the surge tank from under the car and first thing I checked was the factory return line... and... BLIGGITY BLIZZOCKED! Removed the shroud from the hard lines under the passenger side of the car and dosconnected the fuel line, sure enough, sh*te came out. Checked with a piece of filler rod and the return was blocked about 60 - 70mm up. Problem solved. Kinda glad now as I can get the tank welded and be 100% confident it wont be popping again. For anyone else experiencing odd idle or extremely rich to the point of stalling idle - check your fuel lines. Especially if your cars about 10 years old. Just to add to this, these hard lines are probably the only hardware in the fuel system I havent replaced since reviving the car. Typical. Thanks to the usual legends for the input.

@arronm @JETURBO I hope so! Will be checking this tomorrow as soon as I'm off work.

@arronm I would definately think so too. It wouldn't have been designed as a pressure vessel either, so I could have the welds re-done all the way around but I would still have that high pressure situation. Heres my theory - the pump is flowing max pressure through the rail, back through the return line and back into the surge tank as well as the in-tank pump and maybe the return cant cope (or is blocked) Max pressure from both pumps would have to be in excess of 120ish psi (??) This would also be reason for intermitantly running rich - high ass fuel pressure -> rich mixtures at idle. Blocked return - highly unlikely but couldnt quite write that off unless I actually check it. Thoughts???

@ralph wiggum Not this time, but I did get a pic from last time. I'll upload it below. Although the new weld held up, it cracked on the opposite side.

So, it happened again... Racking my brain as to what could be causing it. The obvious says that there's too much pressure inside the tank - but why?? This time I noted several occurrences prior to it cracking: 1. After several starts (when the surge tank was out and running on its oem fuel system) it ran very rich, black smoke and stalling. Cleared once engine was off/on cycled at least 4 times. 2. Once the surge tank was refitted, engine started and ran. Turned off after 5 seconds to check under car for fuel leaks etc After second start, Bosch pump sounded like it was under immense pressure like it was pumping to nowhere - then CRACK and SPLASH. That was at 6pm, so I left it. I have a feeling I have one of two problems - a dodgy fuel regulator (car is 11 years old and has been modified since 2011 AND sat for 4 years) or there's a blockage in the return line to the tank. All sensors have been logged in regards to the running rich and nothing looked out of place. I'll check the return to eliminate that as its probably the easiest to rule out. As for the fuel reg, I'll replace it anyway as its not a pricey item. In regards to the regulator, I've read of blueprinted versions of the 4 bar Bosch regulators being on the market - is this true? and if so, where do I get one?? Thanks In Advance...

That explains that then. To me it seems useless anyway - why have another sensor downstream. Ive logged it and its exactly the same reading, just slightly delayed. Also, @JETURBO do you know of anyone that can supply higher flowing versions of the standard 4bar bosch fuel regs? Tia

@JETURBO Just curious as my 2nd o2 sensor has never been connected. I realise now my dislexia (derr) took over when I initially wrote the post. I meant "does the ecu only use first o2 sensor for reference after flash?"

Hi yall Quick question... do any tuners here use only the first o2 sensor when referencing lean/rich after flash?

Ive run this tank/fuel system combo for a couple years before this happened. Its strange for it to crack now. Been pretty happy with all my Process West parts to be honest.

I spoke to Kev over the weekend but I didnt mention the break. I just wanted to clarify the 100% that it was plumbed correctly. Ive had it welded up already and ill hook it up again this weekend. Fingers crossed that its ok.

Hi arronm Yeah I did. I dug out an installation manual and on PW surge tank, the top two spigots are to and from the fuel tank, the third or bottom spigot is a return from the reg/rail and obviously the supply comes from the poled side of the bosch pump.

If it goes again I'll be fitting a 460lph and I wont be happy - considering what I initially paid for

I guess... for it to split the welds and NOT bust a hose is weird. Although I've been using the same set up for a few years with no issues. I just hope the rest of the welds dont fail once I hook it up again.

Guys (and girls?) I had an odd occurance happen to me over the weekend with regards to my fuel system... I recently (finally) got my car going again after replacing a set of keys (thanks Ralph Wiggum) and with that came time to start the car after some time being unused. I replaced my in tank pump with a walbro 255 and the bosch 044 that's attached to a PW surge tank as the fuel had gone sh*tty and didnt want to risk it. I also wired up a relay to the 044 as it hadnt been installed when I had the surge tank installed initially. Typical relay wiring configuration as per recommendations. I cranked the car without the 044 hooked up, then plugged in the fuse for the 044 relay and continued to crank until I heard the pump stop and fuel was primed. This is when I experienced the problem - I heard a loud "POP" and a splashing sound under the car, had a look and found fuel splashing out everywhere! Climbed under and checked all lines and fittings - no issues. No hoses split or missing, but what I did find was a crack down the front side of the surge tank where it was welded. I removed the surge tank and fitted the lines back to original configuration and started the car. No problems. My question is... has fitting a higher flowing pump to the tank unit caused this?? I initially thought that I'd wired the relay incorrectly but since refering to instructions ive found on this forum I realised I could have another issue. I wouldnt think that having the smaller capacity pump feeding the tank and the larger capacity pump feeding the rail would be a problem with hydraulic lock. Can anyone offer any assistance??

Thanks heaps Ralph. Legend!

ROB83R Ive just purchased the usb adapter and forscan extended software. All I need now is the key in/out code software and once the adapter arrives I can try programming my new keys. Do you have a copy of it? Anyone??? Its proving to be a kink in the process as all sites im directed to wont allow the download or dont have a sign up available any longer. TIA

sh*t a brick hey? That easy?? I'd read somewhere that it was do-able for BA but not so easy for BF. Many thanks Ralph! I knew someone here would know wtf they're on about! Whats your address mate I'll send you some Valentines Day roses.

Hi all, Im trying to get some info on what I need to do in order to get two new keys for my BF Falcon. I had the keys in the glovebox of my daily driver and it was stolen, subsequently so were both keys and remotes. I know the remotes are easy to replace, as are the keys if I have one spare original, but now thanks to a pair of sh#t c#nts from Smithfield in Sydney I am without keys. And I literally sleep in my car every night as im pretty much expecting the c#cks that stole my daily to come to my home (mail items etc in the car when it was stolen) So, does anyone know of any auto electricians who can get the codes for the anti theft system in my BF? Or alternatively, what my options are from now? I already have had two keys cut by a locksmith and they open the door and turn in the ignition. TIA

Fairy nuff then