bdazla

I can also vouch for Danny's work. Second to none! He has helped me out on numerous occasions as the car has changed. All I can say is "WOW". The cars drivability and power is awsome. Cheers Danny

If you look at the specs of an after market head unit it will typically have a minimum pre amp output of 5Volts. Some head units have even more. I haven't looked at head units for quite some time now so I am not sure just how high the voltage on the pre outs go up to. If you do the ASL way the preamp output is something like 0.5 - 1Volt (Not 100% sure of the exact voltage so please feel free to correct me). This means that the amp driving your speakers has to run at higher gain levels and does several nasty things. 1. Introduces that wonderful whine. 2. Introduces more distortion and noise. 3. Works the amps harder than they need to. 4. Thus creating more heat. 5. Means more ventilation required. 6. More stress on the battery. 7. Means a capacitor is needed. 8. etc, etc, etc The list of nastiness is very high in comparison to running off an aftermarket unit. I personally will never put an aftermarket unit in just for the higher output rca's and better clarity but there have been many who have and absolutelt swear by it. It's all just a matter of how far you want to go and how deep your pockets are. Good luck with it all. bring on the power I say! mmmm pooowwwweeeeeerrrr!

Yep, that would be me. I have also thought about the rca's from ASL but would like it to have a higher output voltage so that the amps don't have to run high gains. I still get a little bit of whine from my setup with the lc6 but only a tiny bit. I still need to find some time to play with it all again. I used to have the stinger convertors before that. I have noticed that the amp you use to drive the speakers also makes a huge difference. Let us know how it turns out. Cheers

you need to make sure you have good earths for the amps and the lc6 unit. Sometimes multiple earths. Then on top of that you need to find a balance between the gain output of the lc6 and the gain on the amps. too little on the lc6 and a too much on the amp will create noise. too much on the lc6 will cause massive distortion and clipping. there is a fine balance and it can be a biarch to find, but it is there. Where did they install your lc6 unit in the car?

I'll be very interested to see how this goes. I have changing my stuff again recently and the noise and whine sh!ts me to tears.

So I'm not the only idiot then. more more more. that's all I think about. more mods happening next week. I'm gonna have to sell the house at this rate. well at least it's a nice car.

I think it is a worth while mod to change the piping to reduce length but I am not too sure about the kits that just re-route the IC outlet pipe back to the factory cross-over. I personally think that the pipe re-route option can cause heat issues. there will be plenty over people that will disagree with me but I have had anf issue with with my car that happens with heat. With stock piping the problem take a long time to happen, if at all. with a slightly modded piping to allow for a bigger blow off the problem happens very quickly.

Thanks Ninka

Thanks Zap. I am also going to put the smb dump and a big arse cat. meow. I am concerned about the droning mainly. I am also not a big fan of really loud exhausts so it might be suitable for me. Going to put the quad system in so far.

Hey Ninka, Nice work brother. I am looking at doing this myself. I have ordered most of the parts but I am still deciding on how to do the intermediate pipe (between the cat and the muffler). have you got any pics of the pipe between the cat and the muffler section and of how it actually goes from a single pipe into the twin 2.5 piping? Also what size pipe did you use between the cat and the muffler. I can see you have the twin 2.5 but I can't see what size the single peice of pipe is. Cheers

anyone?

The auto spanks the manual. I own the ba mkII f6 manual. A few friends have the auto and it make me jealous. damm them to hell I say mwahahahah mwahahahah *cough* *cough* *choking on my own drole*

I know there are differnces in the exhaust bends on a baXR6t vs a BF F6 because of the transmission changes. I am not sure where the cat bolts to on an N/A car. the turbo versions have a dump pipe and then bolt to the cat. I assume that the N/A would bolt to the cat in a slight ly different place. I will see if I can find some pics.

Hi guys. I am hoping someone has a john bowe or redback exhaust system on their XR6T or F6 and lives or visits the south east side of melbourne. I do travel all over the shop, I.e Geelong, thomastown, city, kew, warragul, frankston and dandenong. So other area's might be ok too. If someone does have one fitted, would I be able to meet up with you somewhere to have a listen to the car? Thanks all

have you got any pics of the filter? I'm not 100% sure where that is. Thanks

I need to know this too. was kinda hoping to fit a 3 inch pipe though.

The front looks ok. can't say I'm an expert when it comes to cars but as far as I can tell, all is ok. I am kind of suspect of the exhaust section of the turbo as the front seems to be ok. I have also noticed that the spindle has a little more play in it than I remember it having. I can moved it back and forward, and up and down about a mm or so. doesn't appear to have any scratches or anything though.

As the title suggests, has anyone damaged their turbo? what happened and what were the symptoms? I am having some problems with my car and I beleive it could be the turbo. I have noticed there is a slight knocking if I spin the turbo manually (I took the pipe off)and I have been having a problem when typically under boost. I seem to have a vibration and a dull growning noise.

how much was it just for the convertor?

I have used one of those 3G internet cards in my laptop in the car. Very handy indeed. I was able to work on a clients mail server while driving on the freeway. Sensational!

I have one to add. the video is not the greatest of quality but I'm sure you'll get the idea. http://media.putfile.com/Tyza

I think it is roughly $350inc RRP. Im sure you could get it for the $300 mark which is what the pal to ntsc rgb convertor costs anyway.

I have found this at autobahn. It is a media control center that has the correct outputs as per the BA/BF spec. It is similar to the MM5400 http://www.sso.siemensvdo.com.au/files/HCQ...20datasheet.pdf It is the MM2300 designed specifically to connect to the screens in the ford. pretty cool device I think. No need for the convertor for the front screen any more and you get the ability to watch different things on each monitor.

So I have been following this for a while. I was thinking of using the following: From http://www.carconverters.com.au Dual PAL or NTSC Multisystem RGB Converter with 12v Relay Switch - $291 Car DVB-T Digital Mobile Receiver (good for 180km/h) - $432 From http://www.brashimports.com.au/ F.M. Modulator / Sender - $36 From http://cgi.ebay.com.au/New-internal-Car-TV...1QQcmdZViewItem 2 x internal Car TV antenna - $80 This will allow me to plug in a reversing camera to the sig convertor and then use the digital set top box to plug in a dvd player and maybe an xbox. I could also add two other screens in the rear from the digital set top box. I have attached a pic of what can be achieved. Expensive but versatile and stable. Hopefully anyway!

What advantages are there for venting to the atmosphear? Or would the plumback system be better? I have been looking at the turbosmart dual port VS the turbosmart supersonic. The original bov is a plumback in the F6. So would venting to the atmosphear be a bad idea and cause too much fuel to be injected during gear changes? cheers