r32dan

thanks for the recomendations!

Hey guys, I'm looking at a custom tune in the near future and was wondering who would be my best choices on the Gold Coast if any, or will I have to travel to Brissy and go with one of the forum sponsers?

yes some of my paramaters have been left open to scroll through and adjust, one of them obviously being shift firmness....I can simply adjust that setting and re-flash the tune updating the old one...pretty simple. thanks "ih8toads" for the tip, ill leave it as is....

come on guys, someone must know the answer to this ?

A stock BA xr6 turbo 4 speed auto isnt much faster than an NA BF with a 6 speed auto! the zf auto makes a huge difference in performance and economy when comparing stock cars. If you dont plan on modifying, get the later model NA with a 6 speed and enjoy the economy and reliability!

if its already tuned for its current state, I doubt new pipe work would require a retune, unless it has been tuned with absolutely no room for error. if you are unsure of the cars exact history perhaps it would be worth a quick check on a dyno regardless.....and you would be killing two birds

make sure you ring around and get lots qoutes as prices can vary alot, as with all automotive feilds. and take Azz's advice and make sure you piss off the standard oil line filter....

every car ive owned spews some kind funky smell (sometimes multiple smells) after a good pizzling. If your oil is full and dont look like custard, and the water is full and not boiling - happy days -

hey guys, what are considered reassonable settings on an xcal 2 for the auto shift firmness. The car is as stated in my sig! Currently I am running 15% on both 1-2 & 2-3...Although extremely fun, I found the max setting a little over the top and backed it off to the 15%.....I just want a firm shift that is the safest option for the box..the current setting feels just nice but I want to confirm this is ok?

cool so should have all the same capabilities as the x3....! Also can you guys recommend the best tuners for a xrt on the Gold Coast, I used to go to Matt at "PITS", awsome tuner but he doesnt do xr's ?

Hi guys, I'm looking at getting a custom tune soon using my xcal-2, will I run into any short falls verses the newer x-3, or are they more or less equal apart from appearance?

if your car is near stock you would never know the difference between running a $100 filter or a $20 ryco filter, except for maybe a slight increase in fuel consumption if you opt for the K&N....

anyone ?

I suppose what ever is best, which im guessing is liquid? but im happy too investigate either.....I also guess which ever is most readily available in my area, or who ever has the most experience in doing performance gas set ups........

im interested in changing over to lpg injection and live on the gold coast....is there anyone on the goldie or surrounding areas that could do the conversion and tune, drive in drive out, and roughly how much.....! any help would be great

yeah, they do seem to be popular on here....

hi fella's what would be the most affordable performance shock for my ba xrt......I have low king springs already, which makes for pretty good handling but I want to tighten things up a bit more without spending a fortune.....apparently monroes are pretty much no better than standard.

When shopping for my xr6t, I test drove a red 03 BA here on the Gold Coast that had supposidly seen 400rwkw unopened. No valve springs, Stock cooler! Although it had a water spray set up, and was running on av-gas at the time. Apparently it was a one off run for power cruise some years ago. It was owned by someone from Dyson performance (that are no longer in existance) and it was one of the first xrt's on the gold coast to be reasonably modified. Perhaps someone on here knows of this car and could shed some light on wether there is any truth in this? Anyway, even more interesting was that it was more or less modified from a very early stage in its life, and has now got 150,000k's on the clock so the old unopened BA motor has done alot of K's under pretty tough conditions regardless of what power it has, or hasn't had. When I drove it, it had been detuned to god knows what before being sold to the current owner, but it was off its tits to drive, didn't blow smoke, and the engine sounded tight.....BUT....I just couldnt bring myself to take the risk of being the bloke who it finnally blows up for.

did the noise stop when you removed the sheild ? if so just leave it off........problem fixed, and weight reduction all in one if its still noisy, maybe cat is stuffed ?

hey guys, I suspect my standard cat is rooted and am wondering what the lowest "cpsi" rated cat I can go without overboost problems? I have found a couple of well priced 300cpsi metal cats, but am worried these may still be a little to free flowing? does anyone know what "cpsi" the standard ones are? And one last thing, what size do I need for the standard exhaust in inches, 2", 2.5", 3"......?

Did this process couple of days ago, car has done 120K and the screen was pretty ristricted by oil contaminats.....too be honest the build up was not that bad, but, becuase ford have chosen such a fine screen it takes f%*k all for them too become really restrictive. I couldn't blow air through it! I turfed mine, as all my previous cars with ball bearing turbo's never had a screen..... By the way, the best tips for making this job easy and fast are......buy two deep sockets (22 & 24mm) from super cheap roughly $10 all up, and remove the air box and access it from above...do these things and it's not that difficult....

hey guys, read the above link, and although it is a very clever little trick (as resistor mods always are) I would rather spend the $70 or so to buy the actual shift kit that retains your engine braking, and allows you to adjust the firmness of the shift....but......is there any point in doing so if I plan on flash tuning the car....I hear that the flash unit also firms up changes as well, or would it not really compare with the results I would get from the dedicated shift kit? oh yeah, and also, would they be compatible together?

This thread has helped keep me entertained (& awake) on this very hung over boxing day 5am start! so heres my ten cents worth from a person who has owned numerous imports and v8's and has just bought his first xr6t...... among the long list of cars, I have owned two skylines ....and here is the thing. they are nearly all manual, they have very low ratio diffs, very rigid chassis dynamics for handling purposes, they are very light, especially in the arse end and they tipically dont have a lot of down low tourqe. they are the worst possible set up for drag racing, and typically spin the wheels half the track if they have decent power. the ford on the other hand has some weight in its arse to sqaut down and get "some" traction, are mostly autos and have sh*t loads of tourqe. I could send my wife out to the strip in the ford to have some fun (its not that hard to select D) and whoop some pimple faced kids in their near stock skylines, trying to time his launch with a brass button clutch.....! But go to a clubman circit day, and watch the disapointmant on the bokes faces, that has just paid big bucks for his shiny new fpv or hsv getting lapped by these "OLD" 90 model imports....its halarious. this is what these cars were built for.......proper racing.... a lot of the guys on here are saying that you have to spend so much money to make a skyline do a qiuck quater. well probably as much as you need to spend to make a taxi corner! pointless comparing these two cars, as both cars are terrific for totally different reasons.....

thanks guys.....

hey guys I want to check the tention on my exhaust bolts, but it appears that the bolts actually hold on the sheilding! the sheilding bocks access to the lower bolts...do I have to remove the top bolts to gain access? or can they be accessed from under the car saving me having to remove the sheilding?