blueboost

Good one , have a good time, go hard

13.6 is a very good time, for what is done to his car, (I think he said he has cold air duct) but either way he has drove it real well to get the 60ft to run that time, and it takes a good car to, mine could only run a 13.9@101, and that was hard to get

all input is good, and all oppinion's are apriciated, we all can learn something from each other, it would have to be something special, to beat a 13.8@102mph, from a stocker without any mods at all.

It might be worth doing it with good fuel first, and once you have done it, tune it to lower fuel, once you have run a time they seem to come easeier, that said to take the risk is only up to the owner, because if she brakes, you pay for the motor. that said the mph your runnig now, has to be on the edge anyway. it would be good to run as you are, with your new convertor, and if you get down to a 11.3 the other bits should give the other 25 rwkw to run the ten. remember it will still be a better time for stock intercooler. David

I drilled my throtle body about 3 months ago has not stalled since, that said, my car always idled lower than it should have, and the motor would try to adjust but could not lift to 600rpm, since I have done this it idles on the high side of 600rpm, and has not stalled since. the only reason I can give is that, some cars, because of tollrences, idle that bit lower, and the ecu is happy with that, (like the ecu, can see 600 + or - 50rpm, and it is happy) but when the throttlebody gets a bit oily the air does not flow though the opening as good, so it idles on the low side and stalls, but now with the hole in the buterfly, it is always on the high side of spec's, so does not stall anymore. I have heard of cars on this site that rev up to much when starting, and I beleive that these are the opposite of this and are getting to much air. if this is right the edit will solve this problem, by lifting the idle setting. hope this helps David

any trouble with the stall Rob? I have heard some cars go into limp mode when stalled that far.( mine did not though 3000rpm) it would be good to see what mph you loose because of the stall, with the same power. David

Thanks Dave, Do you think this is possible? The internals is going to cost a full!!! Rob... <{POST_SNAPBACK}> I think so, the C/v car had standed internals, but race fuel and no cat, but you have the edit and the best tunners in your corner, ( by results anyway, no offense to other good tunners) should only need another 4 mph and the stall should do the rest. That is my goal too, but I will watch you do it, then copy David

sounds good, might have to do the same Might be the first T to run a ten, with standed internals, and street trim. David

Yep that's on the cards soon... Rob... <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Sweet, what cooler did you decide on, is the front of your still there,

You idiot. If a car has a 'potential' time to run then it has to factor in all things, including driver ability, traction etc etc etc. Just ask Spiro.. a mountain of power and (your magic word) 'potential' to run an 8. Has it happened, not yet, why - because all things has to be considered, including breaking components, traction and driver. Wow, 5 sec? might have to strap the rocket on for that one Spiro. Using your paper racer formula, how fast is Spiros' car?? potential 5 second 1/4?? <{POST_SNAPBACK}>

A big ten comming Rob or what?

I take it that that is with after market valve springs, I know I would like the soft limit the most, I stuff up a lot of good runs because of the hard cut, I dont think I would like taking my standed internal motor to 6500 though. David

With my old car I had a best at Calder at night of 12.32 and a best at Heathcote during the day of 12.24. Both during winter, just over 12 months ago. I haven't really raced Rumble at Heathcote properly to be able to compare the 2 tracks with him. Heathcote also has a better launch pad. Geea. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> What power were you running then Craig? <{POST_SNAPBACK}> The car had around 275-280rwkw's. This was on factory 17's with Dunlop tyres. There was no satll and I was launching at 2100rpm with a 2.0 60'. This was one of the quickest times back then. We've come along way in 12 months. Geea. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Yes but the times you have set on the stock tyres still rule today, 11.9sec They are very hard to beat, 11.9 on the old Dunlops in your new T Maybe, Mr turbo (Rob) should try and knock these times off before he changes his intercooler, a record should not stand that long David

If your talking standard T in the 12's mate your dreamin <{POST_SNAPBACK}> So what you are saying is , you know nothing about the drags, (not trying to be nasty) any car with the power to run 102mph, down the strip, has the ability to run a 12 sec pass, ( with the right convertor, and traction) that said, the weight of the xr6t, loses are greater in the convertor so it makes it harder than most, if we could get someone to set up a convertor that would lock up under full power, after 60ft (which should be posible) this mph would climb back up to 102mph, maybe even 103mph and should easly pull a 12. that said it might do it with just the big convertor and street slicks on a good night, it would have to be a good run though. in fact if you work back from my time of 11.78, @ 114mph (which some time ago some thought was not possible either) and take 12 mph off it, which is around a cost of 12 tenths of a second, and you end up with 12.98sec time. but as I said before it is not always as easy in real life, but it can be done. I think spiko and others that have spent time at the drags will back me up on this. also if anyone in Mackay, or townsville wants to set a record I will lend them my convertor to prove this, Hopefully the one that pulled the 13.8 run when I was there would be a good starting point. David

time will tell, I hope that solved your problem. I think there has been a lot of different faults causing the same stalling, on different cars so this sounds like another one to add to the list.

I don't think I would go that far If ford change much on the new model, they might have to rely on piggybacks again. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Plus you never know when you need a door stop around the house <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Keep it in your pocket, next time your drunk, you might need a piggy back home. hang on I have a piggyback, I take it all back

I don't think I would go that far If ford change much on the new model, they might have to rely on piggybacks again.

with the custom tunning available in Melb, you would be mad to go with anything else. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> I just read my post, I was talking about the edit.

I played around on the computer, and I can get the xr6t to run a 13.2@100mph, the reason the mph is back to 100mph is because of power loss threw the convertor, (4000rpm) the only way I got a 12 was to take wieght out or add power, That said, on a good night down south, it could just sneak in. David

with the custom tunning available in Melb, you would be mad to go with anything else.

the dear one can do both, but you can buy a metric cheap one.

or one of the hoses might be sucking air, does not take much of a leak to cause a problem, and it can be inconsistent,(I had that problem with mine)

any times from the track?

it is worth remembering to do a run both way's, and if there is a big diff, more then likly the road is not level, although second run should drop a tenth because of heat soak.

the cheap one can be used straight away if you only want time and mph, just stick it to your wind screen, plug into the lighter socket,it will flash acc then gforse I think, anyway press button when it flashes acc , and level it untill it reads 0 or +or - 1, you might have to pull it back off a couple of times while doing this, I found to make it a bit more acurate, I slip a bit of paper under the metal strips at the bottem,to take out the slack, but when finished it must be reading level. find level and straight road, then stop press button again, and it should say go. it does not start untill you take off, then it will flash 0-100 as you pass it, then when finished it will flash Quarter time then mph, it has been a while since I used the cheap one but this info should be right. David