anwickes

Thanks mate... Makes the mind rest a bit easier. I'm thinking I will just turn the aircon/heater off and put the windows down. I have noticed being a bit 'dopey' and sleepy while driving lately. Makes sense now!

So I just read that it's dangerous to drive a car with a leak in the manifold as poisonous fumes could leak into the cabin.... Is this for real? Should I be finding alternative transport to work for the next week or so?

Turns out it is an exhaust leak near the manifold. They reckon it could be a loose bolt, busted bolt or I've blown a gasket. Not happy after only having the car 2 weeks!!!

I'll try and get some audio of it tonight and post back.

How could it be bolts though when the noise gets quicker as I accelerate harder? Just spoke with a guy who knows a little bit about cars... He seemed to think that a loose bearing in the turbo is bad... As in, new turbo bad... :(

Nope.... Accelerate and it starts.... Take the foot off the pedal and it stops immediately. Could it be a loose bearing? Would it be worth taking the top off the turbo and checking it out myself? (Assumption made that there is a top that you can take off.. lol)

lol no worries mate. Will get it checked out.

No need to be sarcastic....Lowest form of humour if that's what you were going for. It's not the normal spooling sound but more of a gurgle. Like there is a loose rock or something spinning around in there as well.

Sorry to hijack this thread guys but I think I might have a similar issue with my turbo. I don't hear it on power on/off but I do hear it whenever I'm accelerating. The sound is coming from right behind the steering column (where the turbo is) and sounds like a gurgling/spinning wind sound. I've only had the car two weeks so I will be super pissed if it needs a rebuild!

It all comes down to personal preference mate... If you like the sound now, leave it!

Personally, I'd recommend turning your sub around unless you want your spoiler to rattle off the boot. Sounds much better in the cabin as well!

So nothing to really worry about then? I got some injector cleaning fluid and have put it in with a full tank. Hopefully that will quieten it down. Otherwise, I think I have narrowed it down to one of the injectors specifically so may have to get it replaced.

I think the ticking is in the fuel rail.... Anyone know what that could be?

Hi guys, my '03 xr6t has just started ticking on idle and getting progressively quicker when revving the car. I popped the bonnet and listened through a screwdriver to hear the source of the sound and found that it was coming from the thin tubing that runs parallel with the engine on the right hand side (if you're facing the car). I don't know much about engines but I think it is what the spark plugs are attached to. I've done a fair bit of reading on here and am hearing bend rods... Please tell me this is not what it is? I have to drive 2 hours home today and am worried that I will do more damage. BTW, does anyone know of an engine diagram that I can point out exactly the part that is ticking?

How big is your sub going to be? Looks ginormous!!!!

:S Just went to $3100 all up.... I hope it's worth it!!!! Booked in for Friday...

Damn straight... Was trying to cap it at $2000 but heading up towards $2800 now... :(

Nah mate... Melbourne based which is only an hour away from me.

you said that you had bought there before? Which shop and have you noticed any differences like radio not working etc? Sorry for hijacking your thread by the way... :S CLICK.... These are US prices yeah? I think my $1949 is going to be cheaper to be honest once I include shipping etc

Being from the states, are all the frequencies the same for the radio? Are the units identical? Also, what happens with warranty if they break? Do you have to send them back overseas?

Ok so I've been given a few quotes, one in particular from 'elite_electronics' (EBAY seller) who admits that his goods are imported but do offer a 1 year warranty on all their items. He has quoted me $1949 for the following. Should I jump or tell him to rack off? ALPINE iDA-X305S ALPINE SPR-17S ALPINE SPR-17S ALPINE SWR-1223D ALPINE MRP-F600 ALPINE MRP-M500 In order for the warranty to work, I need to show proof that a certified installer has installed it. I am being quoted $495 by my local which seems extremely high, $150 for cables (Really!?), $70 for the head unit fitting kit and $230 for the custom sub box. If I knew would cables I'd need, would I be best to source them online? Same goes for the fitting kit. $70 seems ridiculous!!!!

Hey guys, would you recommend against putting splits in both front and rear?? Looking at the Alpine SPR-17S.

Just got back from the Audio place. He recommended a set of Rockford Fosgate's but that turned out to be way over my budget so we had a listen to Alpines R-Type package deal..... Personally, I reckon it sounded sh|t hot so hopefully I don't hear bad things. The package is $1499 and contains the following: - PDX-5 5/3 Channel Amplifier (Can run 4x speakers and sub ) - SPR-17C Type-R 6.5" Coaxial Speakers - SPR-17s Type-R 6.5" Component Speakers - SWR-1223D Type-R 12" Subwoofer Does anyone know much about this kit? I'll also most likely be adding the Alpine X305S to the system.

Sounds like you've done plenty of research. I might go to my local car audio shop and have a chat with them regarding the focals. They're on the dealer listing which is awesome.

Ahh ok... So if you didn't have the polks already, you probably would have gone with 2 pairs? Do you know much about the Rockford Fosgate Shallow subs? I know they're for utes with limited space but I'd love to keep as much boot space as I can so it they sound nearly as good as the normal subs, I'd definitely be interested.