turbowelshy89

Bf standard turbo lightly ported and 8lb actuator, 386 rwkw at 20 psi on no 98. Am goin to a new turbo setup soon though... 3582r with billet front wheel and .7 front cover... See how it goes...

This is what my tuner said so ill just be getting them to fix the original or replace it with a standard one...

Ok cool I'm goin a 35/40 with a billet wheel an .7 front cover...

All the parts are there too make around the 400 mark are ready to go just got to sort out the drama with his exhaust cam... Yea I thought the stock ones were good for over what I'm chasing just thought I'd ask cheers...

I'm looking at getting a set of cams due to the mob who where refreshing my head snapped one of the cam sensor lobes of the exhaust cam. I'm looking at a stage 2 set from Jim Mock Motorsports but am just wondering is.modding the cams worth while or should I just replace it with a standard one. I'm looking at about 400rwkw when the Ute is put back together and tuned...

My core just turned up the other day althought im keepng the starndard housing with ported rear and goin the billet front wheel, I fitted them all up and wasnt happy with the clearances on the front wheel to compressor housing so im goin to send the whole turbo down for him to check. Not real keen on bolting it all together on to sh*t the turbo after 5k or somthing. This was not his fault though it could be the compressor housing is outa round.

Ok so I have started putting the new short motor together, I give it a coat of paint just to clean it up and make it look like new considering when I opened the box there were holes in the box and surface rust over the block in random places (pics below) As its stated in many of the fg f6 to ba'bf builds I had to nothch the Drivers side engine mount. I just slide it up against the block and marked where I needed to cut and used a hacksaw and then smoothed it out with a die grinder. (ill post a pic up later of what it looks like cut out). I also found that the engine mount has packed it in and am replacing it too. I also had to modify the gurdle to allow the standard location of the oil dip stick. Ill post up a pic tomoro of how it looks now (forgot to take a previous one). I run out of upload width to add more photos, also I took my head to a local mob against my better judgement and the reckon that a few of teh exhasut valves were a little pitted and one of the cylinders would seal up or something so theyre gonna fly cut em for me. I figure theres no point in putting sumthing in that's gonna casue troubles down the road. On the only up side at the moment my atomic goodies are here and oil pump should turn up this tomoro and turbo core also. I went with a standard core with a billet wheel... Not sure it was the right move but we'll see how we go come tuning time... And my water meth kit and 2 coolers turned up aswell. My plan with the coolers is to scrap the standard p/s cooler that runs all the way across the front of the car, so I figure if I scrap that and go with an aftermarket one I can fit the p/s and im fitting a aftermarket cooler for the zf side by side. Ill post up more pics as I go for those that are interested.

Ninka what oil did you use to run in your new engine. I have been told from a few different ppl a few different things. Like one bloke said to run it in with the same oil as what im going to run it on, then from someone else they reckon to run it in on a "run in oil like penrite". Figure I may as well ask someone who has good results from tried methods.

Haha thanks mate will do. I ordered and paid for it yesterday. I can't see it having to much dramas considering its only gota huff another 14kw to get me where I wanna be... And with the help of water meth to help it out also I'm hoping it will do it with about 20 psi or so...

Yea I have spoken to mr turbo on the gold coast and he can do a complete core with billet wheel for cheap so I think I am gonna go with that. Do you think it will flow sufficent at high rpm to support low 400s still ih8 toads?

Yea he reckons that the 35/40 will be still be fine for what I'm chasing... Only low 400s and won't be as laggy as the 66mm wheel and .7 front cover... Sent from my HTC Velocity 4G using Tapatalk

Ahh it was about 29## delivered thanks to bionicxr6t05 as he helped me source it. As for ease to drop in ill let u no in the coming weeks, im away for work atm so I wwont get to work on it till next weekend. But you ve got to include new head gaskets and all the other stuff. Oh well seems as thought my turbo has also thrown in the towel or was about to as there is a few little marks where the impellor has been touching the housing so im up for a new one of those too. On the up side I got a call from atomic to day to say my oil pump is still in ok nic and is ok to rebuild with there gears etc...

Thanks lads. Yea dave knows his stuff and the motor failing was no way his fault only mine... I had a drift fuel filter and didnt realise the element had actually come loose in the filter and was starving the motor. But the bent rod didnt happen straight away so I think it gradually got worse until the piston was hitting the crank as can be seen in one of the photos. Yea bomber another fg block in a b series only coz youse got the good internals and the crappy fg looks lol jks jks...Oh and my cousin I building his block atm so I think we'll be looking at a drum of e85 soon as there both built,

Ok so I been a round for a little while but figure its time to introduce myself and show everyone my ute and details on it. It was putting 515rwhp at 20 psi tuned by Dave Sheehy at CPV with a pw 2.3 kit, 4" dump 3 1/2" back exhaust, Standard turbo + ported housing, nizpro re-drilled injetors, aeromotive stealth in tank pump + 044 and jd customs surge tank. Standard internalsadn valve springs. Well after numerous drag meets plus powercruise last year my motor has thrown in the towel... The only way I found out was it started making a ticking noise straight after start up. Details of this can be found in oil pump questions topic in engine topics as this is what I thought it was. But after stripping the engine down with the help of my cousin 45t xr and a mate and his hoist we found that I was running vcr (variable compression ratio lol jks jks) Numer 1 rod was like spaghetti. And now that ive had a closer look at it I think number 6 was close to it aswell but not as bad. So I stripped the engine down just leaving block and rods and pistons and crank together for now. But after having a closer look it would seem that number 3 inake vavles have hit the piston a bit (pics below). After much deliberation I decided to order a fg f6 short motor and with the help of a member on here it turned up today. This was because im in gladstone and 1 I dont have time plus I dont have the knowledge and 2 theres know one in the area that id trust with my mower let alone my ute. Plus the other thing was m aim is 400kw and after reading a few post in the 400 threads there seems to be a fare few people pushing the 400 with standard fg rods and pistons. This is my plan: Fg f6 short with atomic oil pump + atomic hd timing chain and crank gear. And brand new guides and tensioner. Atomic valve springs and water methanol for safety and to help a little bit to push over that 400 mark.

Heres a list of the things im ordering to bolt to the short motor. Although my head is in good nick still so I dont need to replace it. Yours will just depend on if urs blowing up caused any damage to your head. Atomic oil pump (think my recirc valve may be cracked) Atomic 12mm head studs Atomic gasket kit (including performance head gasket) Atomic valve springs (still had standard ones) Cam Chain tensioner (from ford although probably should have got it from atomic) Cam chain Guides (from ford also) Atomic HD Cam Chain Atomic HD Main Sprocket, You may not need the timing chain and guides and etc but mines done 75k so I figure I may aswell change it all out now while it apart for piece of mind.

But he'll need to find a ba/bf sump to put on it as theyre a fg block. Im going through this atm. And to be quite honest I looked at that motor but for the money you can get a brand new fg f6 short motor for under 3gs. Ill be throwing new atomic timing gear and and valve springs and atomic oil pump. Might as well for insurance while its apart. I cant imagine a bf sump would be too much from a wrecker and just make sure your head is in good nick

Bilo fuel for ya...lol jks jks

Maybe my motor has a mind of its own and decided that it wanted to rev a bit more so it decided to shorten its own stroke a bit...lol

Yea theyre a new design not sure if many people have heard of them...lol Not quite as strong as the H-Beam rods but not far off it...

well I found my problem... I reckon I could have still got anohter 100k out of it give or take...lol Now its just decision time...Either fg short motor or try and find someone to build mine on the provisor that the block and crank are ok .

Hi paulie, yea mate it is rev realated. and goes away as the engine gets warmer. The car is already in pieces as we thought it was just a lifter and then when we realised it may not have been we got a bit excited and started pulling the timing cover off as we thought it may have been a chain guide. At the moment the sump is undone and hanging and everything else is pretty much removed/undone... ie power steering pump, alternator etc. Im just not sure whether to put it back together and do a compresion test and oil psi check or just continue with sropping the k-frame out enough to get the sump out to check the oil pump.

After giving my car a bit of a hiding the other night I turned it off(not staight away) and then went into the restaurant and had dinner. I came out after and started my car and it had a pretty loud tick. It seemed to go away after idling for a few minutes till it was nearly too hard too hear. My cousin (a ex ford mechanic) believed to be a dud lifter so the next day we pulled the valve cover off and tryed to see if we could identify the dud lifter. We thought we would cover the engine in a cardboard box and run it to help and try and pin point the lifter. We found that it sounded like it was coming more from down in the timing cover... ie either chain guides or oil pump. My question is could the oil pump give a ticking sound if it has failed and still supply enough pressure to keep the oil light from coming on. Also whats the best way to remove the oil pump? engine out or dropping the k-frame enough to remove the sump? Cheers Dan

Yea mate there should be a fair few tuff cars there. I won't be entering as the heads up racing os only 1/8th mile. But I am racing friday night at the TNT with my new 275/40/17 mts. Hopefully it cools down a bit between now and then...

For just over 6g I got 515rwhp but that's doing all the work myself and only paying labour for the tune. Imo if I was paying 7gs id wanna see over 300kw.

Although speaking from experience they do tend to scratch there head a little when u have remived the turbo badge... But im pretty sure the single 3 1/2 gave it away. At the end of the day they can always check your rego on there in car computer. But back to the op. I have a bf ute with the zf and love it it even with the power mine has its not scary as such.