RESPEC7

my car started making a weird noise today (04 BA XR6T Auto - light boost increase) when I took off from the car wash.. gave it a bit as usual and cause the wheels were wet spun up the tires and revved the engine - which sounded much much louder than usual!?! at first I thought it was BOV sqealling and vibrating (the bosch valves make weird noises sometimes...) But the noise was a howling fine vibrating noise from the engine.. I tried to reproduce the noise after and it only starts to make it at 3,000rpm and above!! getting louder up-to redline!! I thought maybe loose exhaust heat shields but its far too loud for that! could it be timing chain tensioner, loose flex plate, engine mounts collapsed or MUCH WORSE :( Videos attached.. u can hear the tone of the engine change as it passes 3k, I only revved it to 4.5-5k in these videos (now freaking out its going to blow) can anyone make any suggestions?! or heard a noise like this before?? Ive looked it up everywhere and there are no other similar experiences :( Thanks Adric

Good Dyno run Spoolax!! I got the 2nd run on film if you want a copy? Cheers

Hey, are any of you guys heading out to/ entered into All Ford Day @ Birdwood??

Hey guys, Im newly moved to Adelaide and keen for some meet and greets! So if anyone is up for a mini cruise Im keen :D

well I found a close-by tranny rebuilding specialist..... (in Mount Gambier) I mentioned my issue and the first thing he said is that its flaring and the C1 clutch pack is on its way out.. Now, he cant check it for a few weeks yet but..... Ive been driving the car around a bit (mostly gently) but when boosting around town it seems OK.. obviously the C1 does not have anything todo with 1st + 2nd changes so if I went easy on it 2nd - 3rd would the tranny last longer? Now I don't drive the car daily and when I do its treated nicely and is not flogged around like it was stolen... the craziest I would go in this car is boosting in 1st breaking traction and backing off to flutter!! if I go to 2nd draws too much attention!! if I take it easy with normal driving... will it be ok? or has the damage been done and its the clock is ticking??????

its not destroyed... yet.... C1 clutch pack is on its way out the door and it slips in 2nd gear... and I know!!! :( I dont even give it hard time!! was an ex company car though!

got these today... will see how they go.. they should suit my driving styles as I dont give my brakes a super hard time

bolt was completely gone.

I think I discovered what happens when you have extreme brake shudder: Notice anything missing??? the car had slightly spongy brakes and a massive loud rattle. heard a clunk bang and this missus said "what the hell was that" :censored: :censored:

dude! take it back to the guys that built it!

mines on the way to loosing 3rd now the changes are getting really sloppy!! my workshop in 50km away too but a tranny specialist is 400km away :(

ok cheers I might give him a call this week and sus it out. its just a real stuff around having it done as I live 4hours away from Adelaide :( Its gonna cost me freight ad labour to get it out as I dont have a shed :( Really regretting buying this car right about now

are there any reputable trans speciaists in Adelaide who I could call for a quote? what will need tobe done to it?

I had the car in 3rd for the trip up the hill and its a biggg long and steep hill :( any car Ive driven up there gets hotter than usual! and when I slowed the airflow slowed alot as well..? but I know your right the trans should not get too hot with the bigger cooler but when I first noticed the issue I popped the bonnet to check the temp of the cooler pipes and they were almost too hot to touch!! I know the fluid paths in the hoses are not blocked as I ran the hoses very carefully.. and the oil should be ok.... was serviced a few weeks before I fitted the cooler and I only lost a few drops when I disconnected the pipes from the radiator... :(

Ok just did a 1000 km round trip and the most tortuous part of the trip was going up the freeway coming out of Adelaide with a full car load and it got warm!! near the top I had to slow for a break down to 60 kph As I accelerated it changed from 2nd to 3rd (light throttle) with a slipping delay and then banged into gear.. fairly certain its a Mechanical issue and very heat related - as once it cooled back down was totally fine again..

Nah its not flaring its not going into neutral its like the revs stop for half a sec before it snaps 3rd.. happens at the end of second gear and only under full throttle (around $1.40ish) - kick down is perfect the box does not slip at all and under normal driving conditions acts fine! My worst fear is that its on its way out as I have not budgeted for it

yea mate its all been adjusted! was thinking last night and id have to experiment with it but I'm thinking maybe the trans is shifting slightly slow and the delay is due to the engine being on rev limiter?

hey guys, Just having an issue with my 4sp BA Turbo! Ive had it tuned to a level 1 tune (2nd CAI, K&N and flash tune @ 10psi) The cars making 240ish at the wheels at the moment. Its been at this power level for a few months and is only usually driven on the weekends - so far the trannys been good and I also fitted a large PWR Tranny cooler in the past month. Recently Ive noticed a "sloppyer than usual" 2nd to 3rd gear change at wide open throttle. The car stays on 10psi wthe whole time feels as if it is almost slipping (but keeps momentum) and then it snaps third! the 1st to 2nd change is perfect but I'm not going to try the 3rd to 4th change LOL normal driving is fine and it acts as normal..... Im worried that its finally on its way out?

hope that helps people some more? I noticed Maximus didn't have the chance to take more pics.... so I did to help out more (I had the same kit as Maximus)

I just recently completed this modification on my 04 Turbo and I will share my experiences and some photos I took on the DSLR. The disassembly was easy and made easier by the instructions that Maximus gave! I did have some dramas getting the intercooler out though.. in the end I removed the LH side mounting bracket from the car and slowly removed it upwards (taking care not to contact the front support and the radiator) Once out I fitted the hoses to the pipes and mounted the cooler in a very similar position to Maximus. This showing the position of the hoses with the blanking plugs placed into the radiator.. Shows how the rear of the radiator looks with the plastic mounting tangs: PLEASE NOTE:::: to get the clearance for the intercooler you will need to press the trans cooler into the condenser reasonably firmly.. (I did find upon initial mounting of the Tcooler that the Icooler would not fit and was badly fowling!!).. ALSO PLEASE NOTE... Make sure you have the Tcooler in correct position before fitting the plastic mounting tangs as they are VERY difficult to remove and you may cause damage to your radiator fins!!! once running the hoses I found I couldn't run the top hose through the headlight opening as this seemed the obvious solution.. so I had to re-route it through the same opening as the battery air intake.. also then found that the hose was hard up against the sharp edge of the radiator support.. (as pictured) so I added a cut piece of left over hose to shield the contacting parts.. just cut some to length (roughly) and cut it length wise to fit it over the top hose.. the tape is to simply hold it in place.. (should have used cable ties but I didnt have any on hand) after pushing the Tcooler harder into the condenser I fitted the Icooler back into place.. and once loosely fitted I found that it would fit BUT only just!! with the top hose actually sitting hard up against the left hand top of the Tcooler:: which I was not too worried about!! (also please note: the bottom hose clamp on the Tcooler will need to be located so it sits flush or behind the overall thickness of the Tcooler otherwise IT WILL FOWL the Icooler when fitted. - I found this and actually damaged some of the lower fins on the Icooler) Lastly: just a pic showing the location of the cooler with the bumper almost back on: you can clearly see the top half of the cooler. with the bottom edge of the cooler sitting level with the Icooler. just a few points that I found: 1. when I fitted the barbed fittings to the existing pipes and test fired the car checking for leaks. I found the top pipe to be leaking badly. after attempting to tighten it more I found I couldn't get the tension due to someone having placed thread tape on the old fittings... (make sure the treads of the pipes ARE CLEAN! these threads DO NOT SEAL its the tapered flush fitting flanges inside that create the seal!!! 2. You will need to attempt to retain the pipes and stop them from fowling the engine belts or pullies.. I simply used the one cable tie that I had to hold the top pipe in place... BUT I still need to repair this further. Thanks Adric