Max Power

Was driving back from Wollongong to Sydney yesterday and, as the drive is quite boring, decided to work out the best cruise speed using the cruise control between 95kph and 110kph for economy by checking the 'inst fuel' reading. As it turned out there werent enough flat bits long enough to test all speeds out properly. Was wondering if anyone has done this so I dont need to try working this out next time again. Mine is a 6 speed manual. Im sure that a 5 speed manual and the 4 and 6 speed autos would have different optimum economy speeds so I guess we need all 4 for everyone to benefit from this.

Speak to jp300+

Hey guys. Want to relocate the battery to the other side (passenger) and use the void left from the battery move to install a pod filter and housing to make it a CAI. Is there instructions, kits, templates, etc. to do this?

Outstanding! Congratulations Ivan and Marianne! Best wishes for your daughter, Natalie.

Hey Ross. Just got myself a set of GT-P copies in 19" so should be ok. Rang up Racebrakes today. Was told that its hard to tell if I have caliper brackets for 338 or 355mm rotors as the guy supplying the brembos cant tell me. Shouldve kept in touch with Barry Smith as we knew each other from the hdt/hsv owners club back in the day when I has a VH SS Group3 and he had a pretty shmick VK GroupA. Pity. I couldve saved myself a small fortune now. BTW. You wouldnt know where I can get a rear set of BF brakes?

Getting my hands on a set of front 4 pot brembo calipers and want to know what size rotors I need to match these with, cheapest price and preferably where from in Sydney?

Its definitely the T5 program that youve got instead of the T56. Right about now I would be changing tuners if I were you.

Its called gear hash and they all do it below 2000rpm. Not entirely sure but its related to harmonics. There is no fix apart from selecting a lower gear to stay above 2000rpm.

Nothing yet. Did some more research. Heard from some people that bigger dumps dont hinder torque and from others that it does. Confused? I sure am. Cause I couldnt get a definitive answer and as torque is important to me, I decided to just change the cat for now and what ever happens, happens. Just waiting on the wog to send me up a decent cat. Hopefully, this time next week the cat will be in and a retune at C&V done. I'll post up a reply here on what happened (please, please, please let it be positive)

Heard its over $2800

So you honestly think you can stop a bee dumping on your car from an altitude of 50 metres, wind and all? Dont hold your breath on DC Comics industries coming out with batman anti-bee poo car wash sometime soon.

Why am I not surprised. Im in exactly the same boat as 03XR6T; 300+rwkw and a ceramic clutch that shudders like theres no tomorrow with a hint of slip as an added bonus. Every mod I did to the car up until the clutch enhanced it. Then the clutch was upgraded and drivability was dramatically hampered. In a couple of weeks Im going to install a twin plate organic clutch kit. It is extremely well priced and is as good, if not lighter in pedal feel and stronger in clamping force, than the F6 one. As its from a non sponsor then I dare not mention the name even though the thread starter did ask for options and as cobrav8 mentioned, this IS in a non sponsors forum. Guess the rules have changed. Cant see how this can possibly be better unless the whole world becomes a sponsor. Oh well, enough of the soap box. When I get the clutch installed, I'll let 03XR6T know of my personal experience and anyone else interested that wants to PM me.

Definitely splice in the speaker wires noted above behind the passenger kick panel. that's where I did mine.

If that's where Jeff got the 'cream' from then I dont want to know

I thought it was a given that Im going. Haven't missed one yet. Put me down as a certainty.

I bus with naked chicks and Pete wants Jeff to sit with him in the back seat. Nah, nothing sus about that

Ford Australia use SAE. Expensive Daewoo on the other hand use DIN. I was talking about 'at the wheels'. The US measures wheel hp on the top of the single roller whereas we use 2 rollers and the tyres sits in the vallley in between which accounts for the difference. I'll try and search for the thread I got my info from. Its gonna be a challenge as it was was over 3 years ago on the aussie LS1 forum. Regards, Max

I dont think they'll be a sequel as they all died (sorry - I had to say it) Top flick though the women could of been bustier

Welcome Telionis. As you're mentioning hp figures, Id thought Id clarify that aussie hp/kw figures need to be adjusted up by 12% to read in U.S. speak.

Youre thinking forged pistons but my target is 375rwkw or 500rwhp and I consider forgies for that target overkill. The hypereutectics should do just fine. Hell, I was thinking that my current pistons should do the power Im after with no probs. Here's an interesting question for the mechanics. How many hours do you think labour would be?

[quote name='Adam' post='519442' date='Apr 9 2007, 08:28 PM']If only buying something was as easy as making the price up yourself. [/quote] I think Im pretty accurate about the parts prices, Adam. I can get Argo rods, for example, for $1000 and thats pleb prices. If mechanics can get them at trade then more money in their pockets. Balancing rods and crank is no more than $300 and $500 for gasket and incidentals is on the money too. The only prob is labour. 10 hours to R&R is more than enough dont you think? The problem is that I dont think mechanics are happy with just 10 hours of labour charge. They factor 2.5 times that as a bare minimum. Im not doing myself any favours here but Im sure others share my sentiments on this. Its just one of those things thats not talked about as the Tune natzi might say 'NO CUSTOM TUNE FOR YOU!'

How about another cat group buy?

BTW. Ive noticed that people dont talk about mufflers as a restriction like they use to. Ive got 3 mufflers in all; one before the diff where it splits into the 2 3" pipes and one on each side before the tips (quads). Should I be looking at these as a possible restriction and if so which ones are the ones to have?

Its a 6speed manual. Mods are valve springs, injectors (seimens), fuel pump, IC (process west 2), actuator and of course the exhaust Ive described. I guess the next question is which cat should I get? Ive heard the 5" magics are a pre-cat and are illegal.

Hi David. Sticking with the 3.5" dump looks like the way to go. I will look at the cat but do you think while Im there I should increase the intermediate pipe (between the cat and diff) to 4" or Im not gonna get any gain from this? I definitely dont want to lose bottom end torque. Arthur