Bomber

no hang on, . Mate, think of it like that 250kg dude from the biggest loser doing a 42k marathon - never gunna finish! Don't do it unless ya want bits everywhere and don't mind building a new engine.

Sorry if it's this is in an earlier thread but who's tuning it? Reason I ask is there are options for injectors. The 60lb siemens whilst higher flow, are known to give a rough idle at times. Ratter ( Pit Lane) would be a good person to talk to on this. I know he's looking at other options.

Welcome m8. Regading the zorst - you're still thinking like a V8 Expensive Daewoo owner (fair enough). Catback is useless unless it's noise you're after. If you want to do anything, do a dump and cat upgrade but you'll need a tune to go with that. SS inductions are a new sponsor so I won't comment on the Growler. Most, myself included, run the XR8 lower air box and snorkle (look for threads on this). With a K&N filter or similar, you'll gain about 10rwkw with snappier throttle. It will cost you around $250 and looks completely stock. In all honesty, best bang for buck is a tune. You'll pick up around 40rwkw which gives you around the same peformance as a stock F6 and set you back between $1300 - $1600. Cheers, Bomber.

Like I said m8, flick the R8 first. If you spot a car and still have it and even if doing a contract subject to sale - you lose an important barganing chip. To get the best deal ya gotta have cash, with no baggage. Dealers lose deals to this type of crap all the time - gotta sell a boat, sell another car, etc. To deal with people fluffing around and them having to invest more time in closing a deal, they move less on price. It's a 'dick around' clause - reward for effort. The only way to truly screw them is a cash sale and normally just before the end of month. Sell your car, find your 'T' and I'm happy to negotiate for you

The dunflops will not be going back on mine. Mate has fitted Sumitomo HTR ZIII on his and they are excellent - were cheap too. They rated as good as or better than the Bridestone RE001's during testing (some motor mag I read). Give them a look in.

Yep, + 1

Off topic a bit, but it always gets me when people want cars to perform better than all the legendary muscle cars of the 60 - 70s (phase III etc) but want to run it on cat piss and return under 10L per 100k. For fark sake!

You were lucky to get 50k out of it but then again, the FG's have more of a problem with this as they're more powerful No actually, there just a sh*tier bush - doh!

Oh no! Baby means toys go bye bye - sorry to break it to ya dude Go kicking and screaming though - I did! Took me about 10 years to get them back - damn was it that long.

Yep, and the diff bush is one of the easier ones to fix. I've had heaps of cars and it doesn't mater who makes 'em but post 100k, you're on the downhill slide. It's mainly ancillaries that start to fail. Things like alternators, power steer pumps, starter motors, etc. Then stupid sh*t like ECU problems, power windows/mirrors and the like. Not expensive on their own but reliability starts to suffer. Here we're talking about a high performance vehicle making it even worse. As others have said, just try and get the lowest k best looked after car you can find. Even then, she's a lucky dip. Good luck.

Sorry m8, she's over 2mb so won't let me upload. If you go to the PWR site and look at the top a page you'll see the 'info' tab (beside home). When you hover over that you'll see 'downloads' in grey underneath and over to the right of page. Click on that and you'll find the pipe install guide. Cheers, Bomber.

wrong file - will have another go.

There is nothing majorly wrong with the FG factory exhaust. The problem is the dump and restrictive cat but even that's good for 400+rwhp. IMO, spend your money on a decent tune, upgraded cooler and pipe kit. If you don't want to chop your car up, fit the new PWR stepped version - it's a direct fit. Tune, cooler upgrade, and XR8 airbox will net you around 270 - 290rwkw and do it all day. Injectors + turbo back zorst (and maybe fuel pump) and you'll land 300+. It just comes down to coin mate.

Yep,+1

Knew I'd seen it somewhere. PWR have and 'step by step' guide (with photos) you can download. It's for their replacement pipe kit. Very well done and even tells you the tools you'll need. I've printed one off ready for my conversion. It confirms that you don't need to fully remove the headlights.

"I'd personally start by punching whoever told you you need an exhaust before a cooler in the face..." Harsh, but spot on actually! You didn't need the exhaust and you don't need an upgraded intake either really. The standard cooler is sh*t. That's where the money should've gone. The turbo mod and all the rest is again, unnecessary. I went to a dyno day at RDP yeterday and F6Marks's FG made 441rwhp. It was around 30 deg also. His car has a tune, XR8 airbox, PW cooler and pipe kit and that's all she wrote. I think I heard him mention that it runs around 15psi. The motor is still a baby also with under 10k on it. So unfortunately mate, you got bad advice and service from dicks that don't know these cars and how to tune them. The good thing is that when you do get someone that knows their sh*t, the upgrades you have will provide benefit. It's frustrating mate and I feel for you. All the best. Cheers, Bomber.

No, you're right. I had just read somewhere that once loose you can get the pipe out/in. For some that might be a bit 'accident prone' maybe safer to leave the h/light in. Whatever works.

I have read somewhere that you may not need to take the headlight fully out.

Just came back from a dyno day at RDP in Brisbane. Lee's GS with an x-force zorst and tune make back to back 500s. Yep, 500+hp with a basic tune and zorst. I think the second run was actually 518. Yes poverty, low rent, sh*t brakes and all of that but it just smacked out 500hp at the treads - nuff said!

Mate if you're serious about 91ron fuel and economy - buy non-turbo. And yes, I wouldn't go near a 'T' post 100k so too many IMO.

Not everyone wants a clapped out B series and pay to fix the previous owner's punish. We're painting a picture here like the FG is a weak piece of crap and the moment you tune it, it's basically f*cked. Not saying it's you mate, but I do feel some owners of the 'old cheese' just slag off cause they're jealous and can't afford an upgrade - which is what the FG is. I do agree though that if you're planning to build a 400kw monster then it's dumb to hack up an FG, IMO.

Been told Nizpro do a bullet proof one for a grand.

yep, my diff bush is 'squishy' after 8k so the rear feels a bit floppy. Don't care as I am putting in a superpro. They OEM ones sh*t if the car is stock anyway so who cares. Same if I break a tailshaft - I'll fit a better one.

Stickers are an 'option' on the GT - standard on GS