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I had a chat to Vic 2 days ago. No NOS was used, just racing fuel and 20lb boost, so the 285rwkw sounds about right. Peter, Vic was pulling most of the go-fast bits off the car, but had left the IC in place. Brian

OK. I use a word document, with hyperlinks to my favourite topics. That makes it quicker for me to find things. brain

oz951, You cover a number of topics, most of which have been discussed in threads, and some that haven't. I'll email you thread references to some of these topics, rather than go over them again, and address the other questions. Brian

Welcome to our Blueprint exclusive club. Enjoy the drive. :lol:

Peter, I'd say I now have a car that would go close to matching 380rwkw using the racing fuel, but as I've told many people it's not the peak power (for bragging rights) that impresses me most, but a wide spread of strong torque. The problem is that I really do not have the expertise to do the car the justice that it deserves in a drag race situation. I have no experience at all. It would be good though to see what a good manual will do, compared to an auto. However, my point in the above post is that a good driver is just as crucial as a well setup car. I feel that comparing Vic's times in an auto to mine in a manual would currently be a pointless exercise. To be honest, I'm more interested in doing track days where I'll learn how to handle my car, how to brake, react to situations, and know it's limits. However, I'm usually willing to try most things, so I'll do some research into what is required. I was about to buy another set of wheels for track days anyway. Brian

Peter, Yes, add some racing fuel, bump the boost up to 20lb (you should easily get 380rwkw), have good slicks and trick trans, but you should really praise Vic, as he's a very skilled and experienced driver, and most of us would take a long time to master the quarter to his level of expertise. Brian

Mattson, Great colour choice. After driving the rex, it may take a while to get used to a physically larger car, as it will feel very different. To be honest, the first 15 minutes I felt as if I was driving a tank. I bought a new MY03 (wife's car) the week before I got the Ford, and there's almost no difference in straight line acceleration between the MY03 and Ford T. You probably have an older rex (the latest ones are a lot quicker). The MY03 rex is quicker off the mark, the Ford catches it later. I think it took me about a week to get used to the Ford. Being used to the rex, you probably won't try to drive it as hard initially. It did surprise me just how well it does stick going around corners. After that you'll love it. Anyway, that was my experience. Brian

Maybe both a high-flow compressor and external wastegate may be a viable option moving foward, for a good power boost but not losing drivability. But most of us are still well within the limits of the stock turbo. I didn't think there was any difference between the turbos in the auto & manual. Brian

No need to bag. Anyone that breaks a record deserves a pat on the back. The bar will continue to be raised. Good effort. Brian

OwnaXR6T, Sorry I don't have any rear pics at the moment. I am just about to head off to sunny Qld for 3 days, so maybe when I get back. You may be able to fit them, as I don't know how many 4 pot Alcon versions exist (probably not many). Maybe we can catch up in Sydney, and we can compare the calipers. Brian

On the car they look as follows:

I have the same Alcon calipers as used on the DJR car - 6 pot front and 4 pot rear. Specialised Brake & Clutch at St Marys in Sydney did the setup; phone (02) 96238070 I have 2 piece rotors: front is 355mm & rear 330. The just fit with a 18" spare. You can go 381mm rotors, but you'll need a 19" spare. My opinion is that if you are going over 300rwkw you'll want 6 pots at the front, otherwise good 4 pots will probably suffice. Pic attached. Brian

Big Mick, I don't really class the premium brakes as big brakes. My big brakes (Alcon 6 pot) just fit under the 18" rim, as unfortunately I had to buy a 18" spare.... (my thanks to private market section of this forum). Brian

In 19's I got a package price from Australia's Best Tyre Service in Sydney, the Falken St-115 (sizes 275/30 rear & 245/35 front) averaged $275 per tyre, $60 more per tyre for the FK-451 (that I use). Maybe there was a bit of a discount because of the wheels, but ABTS are very competive in Sydney. Brian

Turboman, What you say I have found to be correct. The pcm overstates fuel economy once you change injectors.... the readings look good on the display, but you find out the truth when you fill up. Brian

If you want to be different and you have some extra cash then go the 17", then shop around for 18's or 19's. You will need 18's or larger if you want the bigger brakes. I don't know what 4 stock wheels/tyres are worth, if you want to sell them later. I think what 100% is offering sounds like another reasonable option... knock $500 off his price, buy them, then sell the 17s. Brian

100%, I don't think you understand the issue here. It's about what happens to the T5 when you hit it with over 6500N-7500N of torque over a rev band of 2-3k revs. Really the poll is relevant only to Stage 3 users. I suggest you bury this poll now, and bring it back in 12 months time, when we can do a proper poll, with a proper sample of users. Polling the forum when no-one besides myself (that I know of) is running these torque levels is a complete waste of time, and not relevant to the discussion. Brian

Peter, I'd love to attend and learn more about tuning strategies and gearbox strength issues. Brian

Peter, Thank you for providing the APS power/torque figures, as I now have something better to work with. However, first, you yesterday had a major problem with my subtracting 60kw from the published power curve to derive some rwkw figures. So you’re telling me that the flywheel to rear wheel conversion is not a constant. I refer you to your reply to the forum in the thread: “Rwkw, What is it at the flywheel” on Feb 2 @5:23pm In your Phase 3 graphs the kw loss at peak is 391-329=62kw. According to your graphs the rear wheel kw to flywheel kw loss is 19% at 2300 revs, reducing to 16% at 5400 revs….. actual loss of 20kw at 2300 to 62kw at 5400…. As to how accurate the dyno flywheel kw estimate I don’t know. Back to the thread. Based on published Phase 3 power/torque figures you have over 6500N from 3500 to 5500 revs. The stock car has around 4500N peak, and Ford have intentionally keep torque at this level for drivetrain/gearbox durability. So you are suggesting that a 44% increase in torque is sensible and that an engineer would accept such an increase when one takes into account reliability, durability and safety issues. Also, the maximum torque the Phase 3 reaches at its peak is 7800N, which is 73% above 4500N. I really find it hard to believe that a responsible engineer would sign off on these levels of torque increase for the T5. Personally, as I’m currently running torque just above these levels (over 7500N from 3100 to 5000 revs, max 8000N), I budgeted for a gearbox upgrade, and I’d recommend other people to do the same if they want to run high torque levels. I wouldn’t want others to stick their head in sand, and then complain later, as if it’s a big surprise that they’ve lunched their gearbox. Good luck. Brian

It depends on what type of lowered spring you use, as the spring rates can and will differ depending on your requirements. It also depends on the road height you want, basically low or super low.... too low and you just have to be very careful over speed humps etc. If you want a car that will do a lot of track use you might want a firmer spring, plus modified shocks. I use the Herrod spring, which is a progressive rate spring (soft initially then firmer), and still very comfortable, with ride height that's OK in my opinion. I've no idea how it will handle around the track, as I've yet to do a track day. Brian

Based on the Stage 3 graph (Engine figures; subtract 60kw for rwkw), published on the APS website, it looks like the power graph has been flattened out to perhaps protect the gearbox. The car makes only 8lb of boost @3000 revs, going up 13lb @4400 revs. And compared to the Stage 2 graph on the APS website it looks like the Stage 3 has been detuned compared to the Stage 2, up to 3500 revs. At 2500 revs, stage 2 is 100 rwkw, stage 3 is 60 rwkw. At 3000 revs, stage 2 is 160 rwkw, stage 3 is 115rwkw. At 3500 revs, stage 2 is 180 rwkw, stage 3 is 183rwkw. At 4000 revs, stage 2 is 224 rwkw, stage 3 is 244rwkw. The stage 3 end result is a good power level for that boost. Bottom end is not very good, and not what I’d expect. Is this Stage 3 detune intentional, for emissions and to protect the gearbox? Brian

Andrew, I was thinking about that cruise, but would probably takes Joyces black MY03 rex. My STi is way too loud... well over 100db, and more suited for the track than cruising. For cruises it's hard to go past the Ford. brian

Yes please Stef.... I'll contact you tomorrow re details. I have 60mm Apexi gauges, and this is the first pod that I've seen that will fit 60mm. Brian

Andrew, I won't do the trip unless my rapidly deteriorating T5 gearbox has been replaced ... not worth the risk. Brian

Peter, My gearbox will be pulled apart within the next 2 weeks, and I will report what has failed. You have still avoided answering the question as to what you consider a "sensible torque level" for a T5 as used in the Ford XR6T, in the opinion of APS? Brian