Street Tuner

Out of interest, how much power is yours making?

BLKXRT, just because you arent impressed by something, doesnt mean I cant test it. The order of your 'problems', where you place an oil cooler near last, shows that you either want to leave the engine totally stock, dont want it to live (modified) past a few months, or, have no idea what you are talking about. That however, is the beauty of the net, aint it? Knowledge optional

You should try one before you come out with that. I did, measured the results, and quantified the difference. To make the sort of power we did on the stock cooler requires it to have additional help. Same goes for the oil cooler. If you saw the temperatures we did, then you might have a better understanding.....As a rule though, I am no great fan of spraying water everywhere, which is why we did this - (Dont click for the dyno graph though as it doesnt exist here!) BTW I do know that shiny headed Herrod quite well...and as he would say "Noice One"

How about you bring your cars out to the first of the 4,6, Rotor, LS1 ONLY off street meets starting October 15th at Adelaide International. Cost is only $35 to run all night from 6pm - 11pm. Treaded tyres only. My XR6T is running at the first meet (a Wednesday night) shooting for a mid 11s time slip

After reading a bit about the way they're going about the "zoom' car I would have to wonder if all the techno mumbo jumbo is above them also! Since you seem to have such a handle on the XR6T and its modification process, please tell me where im going wrong. Your feedback and critique on its current stage - XR6 Turbo Upgrade would be appreciated

Kris, if you leave the car stock, as it is now, then any gains will be marginal. Modify it properly, and things will start to change

Adding an exhaust system to an otherwise stock XR6T does next to nothing. On the odd occassion, when the car is warm you MAY get an additional 10rwkw. When its cold, or not up to full operating temp you will more than likely get 10rwkw LESS. that's a fact we have proven many, many times. In fact, with the centre muffler removed and replaced with two straight pipes, there is nothing on the aftermarket that will surpass the stock twin system. Try it and find out, like I did

I have some interesting observations of the boost control system. Removing the catalytic converter, which I did to measure power effect of removing each exhaust component, resulted in upwards of 14psi @ 6000rpm. Ie, even bypassing the factory control, the wastegate, which is fully open at 7psi, had massive cross sectional area issues.

The boost varies because the system is trying to control the engines torque output throughout the rev range as per standard. From the factory its 4 - 6psi, with the top line CAPA kit its 10-12psi. You dont feel it as such

TT all the way. Nah, my ancient egypt T04S on the 1J makes the XR6T feel like its pulling a block of flats in the tray. Single, external gate, non plumbed back. Nice

SupraTT is spot on. Just be nice to your gearboxes, they are going to need all the love they can get. Change the manual oil straight away, and investigate something like the cooler and pump system that CAPA are putting on mine. Soon as that oil gets to hot the bearings quickly suffer BTW SupraTT, get rid of the TT bit, go to single T, and make it real fast!

No I am not an electrical engineer. Since you seem to have a fascination for engineering backgrounds, and claim to have one, then understand that embedded system coding/decoding is more the job of an electronic engineer. Putting it simply son, Elecs work with the big stuff However, having studied both B.Mech Eng and Ass.Dip Comp Science at Tertiary level (USA), I can tell you now that when it comes to reverse engineering proprietary protocols that are serially encrypted, there is no training school. Rather there is experience. Experience I have, with decoding automotive manufacturers low level code since 1992 in a commerical environment. Like I said, rather than trying to gain status for your qualification (and it is something to be proud of) by sniping at others, please put your engineering skills to good use and contribute to the conversation in a productive and mature manner. The others you represent here do not look any better for your attempts to bring down this thread

The boost comes on as quickly as the turbine allows. There isnt a whole lot you can do to improve this threshold without changing hardware. As for the engine....the size of the rods doesnt bother me the slightest. I am not aiming to rev the engine any harder than stock, and the power loading component is negligible. Remember, boosted engines, as a rule, are very kind to conrods. You seem to have a handle on the rest of it

So your saying as long as I kept all the tempertures at factory levels for diff and gearbox then potentially the drivetrain could handle 1000ft/lb of torque? Generally gearboxs are rated for a set torque, go over that and the life is reduced, doesn't matter how much thermal control you want to throw at it. It would be nice if you could add something constructive to this thread. Your picking at my posts wont help those like CnC who wanted some straight answers. My statements on durability are constrained to the usage of the standard compressor, and the experience gained with the car so far. Please feel free to share some of your own experience with us at any time.

CnC, I laugh when you try to draw me into these type of debates, but in the spirit of knowledge in an open forum I will fill you in - 1) None of the companies currently offering upgrades for the XR6T remaps the computer. Its a case of intercepting and processing signals (but not just in an analog fashion), minus all the 'smoke and mirrors' being currently flaunted by various companies in an attempt to gain greater technical credibility in the eyes of the public. I have been trying to 'crack' the protocol for serial programming the standard computer for several months now. No one is any closer. That I can assure you. The healthiest and happiest XR6T combos will have the greatest control left to the stock computer. Fact. It knows best the ignition timing, which is adaptive, and trimmed both long and short term. I believe that there would be more power in my care with an EXTRA couple of degrees timing, not any less. 2) The fuel system used is capable of supplying 350rwkw of fuel. There is much margin 3) The stock intercooler is fine with 11psi, losing maybe only 1.5 - 2.5psi across the core at that boost level. While that's a fair bit of pressure loss, the benefit is a core that scrubs the air very effectively and removes a lot of heat. Working in conjunction with the water spray kit its possible to sit 10 deg above ambient at full load on a 25 deg day 4) There is obviously more left in the engine. Probably not left in the turbo. Rather than try and optimise the 240T for big power we have instead concentrated on maximising Nm at 3000rpm. I wouldnt be too worried about the strength of the internals 5) The standard exhaust system, lightly modified, is the measure of any aftermarket type. Its twin, nicely bent, 2.25 inch stainless with a 1 in 2 out large biscuit cat. Look for a full backpressure report in Zoom. It will surprise you 6) Off the back of the turbo the casting is a nice looking piece of gear. that's about as technical as I have got with this piece 7) Yes, put a smaller turbine housing on it! Other than that, not that I am currently aware of I have changed dynos which makes it a real bummer, but I can tell you where the current car peaks torque at 2800rpm, and makes over 100Nm at the rear wheels more than the stock car at teh same point. that's a heap Hope that was helpful enough

What an intelligent piece of posting. I agree with you re the clutch all the way here, which is why the kit - which once more I have had some input into - will still feature an organic plate, and have only slightly altered clamp loading. Its a matter of riding the ragged edge, providing transmission cushion, but not letting the clutch fully open vs torque. The 'magical 250,000km' is not reference to covering this distance with the car in question, but rather an inidcator that thermal management of ALL system components will be addressed to keep their loading as per a factory vehicle. That goes for differential, gearbox, and engine. If you can make the power AND keep the thermals within original limits, you WILL last the distance. Word of warning though, its not easy!

The uprated clutch is being fitted Monday. Read the post, the box sounded sh*tty from day one. Hasnt got any worse. The T5 is never going to be a beauty of a trans, you only need to drive some decent performance cars to realise this. However, it should suffice. CAPA has a cooler and pump kit along with their lubricant, being fitted to this car, which should make it last the distance....that being our magical 250,000km

Yeah, strange place for sure. Its not my product. I own the car, I helped with the development. How they sell it (the kit) is up to CAPA. The guys on the forum are my mates, have known some of them since my VX days, and quite frankly they are pretty well switched on. They ask me a lot of questions, so I give them the answers. You can see from their responses that they are enthusiasts. This forum, however, doesnt share the same general vibe, the same excitement or enthusiasm of the LS1 guys. Look at the shut TSI thread where there was some legitimate debate and over moderation. Quite frankly I dont need to justify that uniformed decision making with free information that adds to the value of the forum....and hence supports the ignorant decision makers. Understand? If not, think about it. However...... This is the car I have timed at 12.55. It was not on a dragstrip, not using a Compulink timing system. An official quarter mile time will be generated on May 11th at Adelaide International Raceway. On that surface, with normal radial tyres, I would like to just touch the 12s. Either way, the time will stand. If anyone would like to assume that the car runs a 17 currently, that's fine with me Lifted straight from my post on LS1.com.au - "The gearbox has been musical from day one. Much like a three speed in a clapped out XA or similar. Hasnt got a lot worse. Hasnt got any better. The clutch is ragged. The torque can slip it in 4th and 5th at that magical 3000rpm kick off point. The rumours of the boxes falling apart the moment they got loaded were just that, rumours. The T5 is no thing of beauty though, that's for sure."

Would you believe on a Expensive Daewoo forum................ http://www.ls1.com.au/forum/showthread.php...8940#post138940

Im here Keli

I changed my oil and filter at 1000kms. I also did a 'dissection' of the oil filter (opened it up) and found a fair bit of metal in it. About as much as you would expect in any new engine. Be advised that at around 3000 - 5000kms your oil filter will be on bypass anyway, hence no more filtration till the first change. FYI I used Fuchs 15W-40 mineral oil. I would never use a synthetic in a less than 5000km engine such as this.