aaronmihe

Any chance of posting a cct for the 12vdc input psu for the xbox?? or even just the pinouts for the v1.6 psu with current ratings so I can get started on my own <{POST_SNAPBACK}> You're better off getting a ATX > Xbox convertor board from GRC Mods and using a EPIA style 12v PSU I can assure you of this Doing your own PSU is stright forward enough if you've got PSu design experience though and the voltages are the same for any xbox, justt he pin-outs changed. A.

The odd thing was I think about half the group turned up in "Not XR6Ts" There was a Barina, MX5, 'old' Ute, XF, some FPV thingo and I think 3 Ts ... And it's not a tapeworm I'm just big boned..... HarvyK was sneaking pocket-fulls out though It was decided that Bugster is the Canberra dining CoOrdinator A.

It's helped by the fact that in the USA you can walk into any Chrysler Dealer and order a V10 "Crate Motor" package that has everythign including engine loom and ECU It's a complete turnkey and includes a multipage manual on making the sucker run in anything About $14K USD IIRC There's quite a few Chrysler motors available this way. A.

I have a brand new UNMODIFIED (ie Legal) Xbox that outputs NTSC here. It is possible to set a xbox to NTSC output without opening the case and installing a modchip. The box then functions exactly like a stocker... It's for sale as I don't need 3 xboxes (it was a raffle prize from the local club). A.

On an ep of Top Gear a week or two back he went over the story, complete with footage. Sexy car, but once again Thatchcam? strikes. (Thatchcam? being the UK "standard" alarm system spec) Aparently the alarm system spec causes a lot of grief for makers who start with US spec cars as it's a very involved installation process. A.

murtly, No they won't work. All they do is change pin-out types. In a SCART connector there are a number of different signals and you need the correct signals.. the ones witht he switch on them simply give you CVBS. travis, the latter item is mroe liekly to work correctly.. But it depends on the way the conversion is done and the timign of the output signals etc... Hell I bought a CVBS/SCART seperator from a major electronics chain that claimed on the paperwork to convert CVBS to RGB and it didn't.... $130 down the crapper there.... A

Demenio... You could do the following: 1) RGB SCART DVD player as suggested set to NTSC mode 2) Unmodded Xbox (ie Legal) set to NTSC 3) Any off the shelf DVD player set to NTSC (most car types can have that set) then run it through a CVBS to RGB convertor for about $160 from convertors.tv or whatever their URL is.... 4) Buy the Blau/Apline/VDO gadget and cable The KEY factor is you need to get a RGB+S NTSC timed signal at the ICC end of the deal. Oh and if you already have satnav you loose that because none of the current solutions cater for satnav/aux switching... That will change in a very short period of time. A.

ahhhh.... My suggestion would be to use a xbox RGB cable and hack the SCART off the end This is what I've done with no problems. Inside the SCART end there is a resistor etc to trigger the Pin8? (SCART) detection of the device and all that which I've left off.... Use the composite signal line (Pin 24) to get your combined Sync from... There's definately better pinout guides around that the one you've got there. but in the end (becuase they spent way to much time disagreeing with each other) I sent into the SCART end of the deal A.

Have you really set your xbox to NTSC mode? You can't can't make that change in the dash - you need to do it with a firmware switcher (Enigmah for example)... Actually having a go later this week on doing it to an un-modded box to get a legal setup... The pic you're showing is of PAL trying to be displayed ...

Of little use but I've found an offshore mob that will do small (and large) runs of PCBs including Proto stuff.... If you're doing your designs by hand take a look at something like Cadsoft Eagle (there's a free version) ... If I'd have read this last week I would have got some run for you in the last batch I ordered... but drop me a line if you want details of the company for thefuture.. A.

Yeah those guys have been around and yes the unit works just fine.... Although there's a few different models/options including PAL/NTSC conversion etc etc All depends on the price you wish to pay A.

You splice the wire that carries the signal ground -it's noted in the doco- (not the loop that does the "enable" and plug it into the loom like normal but also ground the bugger somewhere on the chassis. As has been said before this may (or may not) resolve the issue. It's checp enough to try. A.

Just to note - the Maxxis website lists two different 235/45R17 tyres (different load ratings) Which one did wheels test and which one have peopel bought? A.

It's the IR receiver.... A.

Cobra... for the Ford cable I don't know. You could use the DIY instructions to work out which wire to ground to the chassis, but I wouldn't have the foggiest about the Ford wiring colours etc to make it easy for you.

Yeah that Belikn thingo is the best. For killing noise just pick up the ground wire for the audio and link it to a bit of the body. NOT the dash frame but the body. Works in most cases. The thing about redoing firmwar to play MP3, not possible with the current units in most BAs. While the tech certainly exists, as much as anything there's CD player hardware and CD/MP3 player hardware. It's a bit like saying with a firmware update you could play DVD on a CD player. What I'm getting at is, Ford are using a chipset in the units that plays CDs, it's probably an all-in-one chip and is a cheap as possible for the task at hand. There are versions of these types of chips that do MP3 as well and some are (apparently) pin compatible witht eh basic items. However you'd have to find donate an ICC to the cause to work it all out. BUT you have the display control thing to work out, which tends to imply that it'll far more complex than just a chip swap. If _anyone_ has an ICC (premium,. standard doesn't matter) that is completely stuffed or surplus to requirement I will happily pay to freight it to me to play with. As Falchoon has said, time and more importantly money are things I don't have to play with. And lets face it no-one would cough up the bucks for a conversion that probably takes 3-4 hours of careful ICC handling to get done (drive in drive out) when you'd be covering the cost of prospective failures, development times, bulk purchase of chips etc etc... As it stands the CD player in my car barely tolerates CD-Rs and is fussy dependant on temperature.... A.

Yeah that'll work. Get the RGB SCART output cable (EuroScart not J-SCART) and do the mod to NTSC, and voila you're in business. A.

Yeah I know Saleen, what I'm trying to reinforce is that the "trick" is not in the $$$ box that companies sell but simply the cable they make to connect their $$$ box to the ICC. As has been posted by many people you're looking at a plug to go into the ICC that can be bought retail for under $20 and some wireing and the appropriate plug for the other end. Alpine, Blau etc are all working hard to not use common plugs or pin-outs on their gear to protect their commercial interests which then makes the project a pain in the backside. The Alpine unit looks like beiong the first one that will integrate the Factory fitted Sat-Nav properly though (which is probably more "sold seperately" cables). What it comes down to is. The info for the ICC end is out-there in this forum and others. The parts for the ICC are available.... and if you can find the pin-outs of _any_ RGB outputing box you can link to the two together. A.

You'd be wanting to track down info on the Liquiphase technology, and it's similar derivations. You will definatelly find people workign on LPG injection systems but you'll also discover that development in the area is far from cheap. Not many people have established a range of "off the shelf" parts up for higfh [performance applications. Expect a lot of custom fabrication and possibly a few unexpected explosiosn along the way A.

The pin-outs are already buried through threads here (Digital TV to ICC" thread etc. I've done CarPC and done xBoxInside. Of the two the xBox is probably the best proposition especially if you run Gentoox or similar instead of xBox OS. That way you actually get carPC. Otherwise you need a Video card on your CarPC that outputs a 15.75kHz (NTSC) horizontal refresh, most now have 31.5KHz as the lowest available. You'll also need async combiner (can be made for a couple fo $$) and so on. Get is wrong and you'll be buying a new ICC as there is ZERO protection circuitry for th4e AUX input. Ford has the unit built only to run their Sat-Nav system and you need to minimic the signal types it uses.... Stick with NTSC signals and you'll be fine. A.

The the only trick is to make the cable between that box and the ICC and that's easy A.

Reception while moving will always be an issue, TV signals just ain't that easy to lock onto in a moving vehicle. As for STB options, there's quite a few out there that do RGB SCART out, but the issue lies in voltage (12 good, mains powered bad, but you'd probably be able to modifuy the STB internally) and NTSC/PAL. A useable PAL > NTSC RGB convertor is about $300 so obviously you'll want to have a STB that can be set to NTSC output. Many can, for example my Topfield is fully switchable via Settings menus. May pickup one of those cheapy ones from Woolies and set what they're capable of... But is more what I'm interested in A.

Tried the newest Ford re-flash? A.

Input is most definately Stereo. You've probably just got a buggered AUX input cable. No big problem once the clowns decide they're going to replace it. As for sound quality. I've never had the Ford one so I can't comment on it but I've done some experimenting with the DIY option and well here's the story: "Shonky" twin core shielded cable, short run to simply test. Whine..... "Shonky" twin core shielded to get to tissuebox location. Whine...... "Expensive double shielded (each core has it's own shield, plus shielding around them both)" cable... less whine.... Didn't matter where or how it's routed, it whines. BUT playing around with the following has proven to give results for people: Good 'ol fashion condensor capacitor device on the Alternator Re grounding the audio looms under the dash Line isolation (ground loop eliminator) It's not the cable per-say that cuases the problem it's inherent in the wiring design at the rear of the ICC and the loom that runs audio inputs to the location above the steering column. Somewhere in that short distance there's exposure to noise. This can be proven by shorting the enable pin to ground, but not connecting any additional cable and then switching to AUX. If you're car is a whiner you'll get whine. Can Ford fix it? I don't know Some members have tried but no-ones really posted back any reall info. A.

Options: 1. Blaupunkt Media Interface which is about $180 and used to link a Blau input selector into the ICC (Premium) which then has a DVD player plugged in. Proven to work and is reliable etc 2. Any "retail" DVD Player with a custom SCART RGB cable running in NTSC output mode. 3. Or you could wait a little longer and see what comes available...